|
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
|
|
| |
|
|
xdxbatmanxcx
Novice
Feb 28, 2009, 5:22 PM
Post #1 of 9
(5778 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
hi. i was reading your post. im having similar problems myself. i just put in a new thermostat and its working fine and it has a newer water pump just put on last year. my car keeps jumping up to temp's nearing the orange line which is bad. is it the head gaskets then? because i dont know of any reason my car would over heat. the fan's working the water pump is working. i was told it could have a bad seal so next weekend im gonna go have it looked at. but i do not understand why it gets hot. it has smoke coming out of the resivouir when i take the cap off so can you help me out with this?? i would greatly appreciate it.
darren
|
|
| |
|
|
Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 28, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #2 of 9
(5770 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
Darren; You replaced the thermostat because of the overheating problem? On some vehicles, it is very easy, and a very common mistake to install them backwards. Assuming that is not the problem, are you certain that you've bled all of the air out of the cooling system. Again, this can be a real pain. I've had to raise the front of a car up so high that it got a nose bleed. Seriously, though, it really can be a pain getting all of the air out. Head gaskets; It is a fairly easy test. You can take it to a shop that has a gas analyzer and have them 'sniff' the coolant reservoir for hydrocarbons. Or, most of the parts stores sell a chemical that will do the same. Changes from a blue color to yellow if exhaust gases are present.
Loren
SW Washington
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 28, 2009, 5:47 PM
Post #3 of 9
(5770 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
For the moment seeing smoke/steam at reservoir is not conclusive with it running hot for reasons to be found still.
It must be known full of coolant first and foremost. Not just the reservoir but the radiator. Generally if heater works there's an adequate level of coolant for some info. If not dig in and determine whether there's air in the system. Head gaskets can add air as well as small leaks can leave a reservoir full or too full and suck air in thru the leak. Head gaskets can add combustion pressured vapor (essentially air) into cooling system and cause this. That can usually be detected by feeling upper rad hose from a cold start noting no pressure when cold and if pressure is felt quickly - like within a minute or two that's too fast and more testing needed.
I don't think this model has a radiator cap on the radiator which makes it difficult to know it's full. When no pressure is in system it may bubble at reservoir when squeezing upper hose for instance and should only move coolant - no air bubbles seen.
Seems like everything else works so it could also be a clogged radiator that just can't transfer heat well anymore. Flushing whole system can be very telling and good for it.
Again - run heater on full temp request and that's a good indicator of engine temp up to boiling where heat will quit (just trust me) - if no heat is available it's usually air with the symptoms you've posted,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
xdxbatmanxcx
Novice
Feb 28, 2009, 10:09 PM
Post #4 of 9
(5758 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
ok thank you both. i dont know much about cars thats why i figured id check around. i am gonna take it to a shop monday to see whats going on. i had it at a shop and they were supposed to flush it or w/e to get all air out but idk. and i did flush the system out tho when i put in a new thermostat because i put in some gook (idk how to spell the word) and i had to make sure all coolant was out before doing so. but i noticed you said something about the heat. i've noticed it will be hot for a minute then cold the next. the car has a .... idk info screen if you will.. that tells you low coolant low oil ect.. and it keeps sayin coolant even tho i put it in. i was told i gotta put in a code to get it to stop sayin low so that i can actually tell when its low but idk how to obtain this code. i do not have owner manual so i probably going to have to search the net. but everytime i turn the air onto defrost the a/c light comes on and i only can turn it off if i switch it to feet where the heat comes from.. and i have the temp set at 90 and it still goes from hot to cold. so are you saying there is still air?? and as for the nose bleed lol yeah my buddy said take the cap off let it run see if the air will come out like a burp lol. but i am gonna investigate this more. would anyone happen to know a price on how much it would cost if it were head gaskets? i have a friend who has a shop but b4 asking because we're not "that close" i wanna make sure i know an area of the price. thank you for you time i really do appreciate it alot
darren
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 1, 2009, 2:35 AM
Post #5 of 9
(5753 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
darren: I'd bet right now the up front problem is air in the system and it still needs purging, burping and it isn't always that easy. Like Loren said you have to keep trying, jack up vehicle where you put coolant in can help a lot. There are purge plugs on some usually near thermostat. Sometimes taking a hose off and filling there first from low or empty.
The second the heater quits it's late (try to stop engine before that if temp needle or indication of too hot some other light or something) you have to shut it down till cool again as if things are ok (don't know that yet) it will draw coolant back from the fill/reservoir as it cools - just sitting there, engine off and coolant contracting. It can take several cycles of this - a whole case of brew, several cigars and a "Partridge in a Pear Tree" to get this right and something still may be wrong with it. That's why they have so many hair replacement clinics! There are special tools that really speed up filling a system - especially those with no cap on the radiator, using vacuum and a kit that switches over so only coolant goes in.
Sealer (gook, goo,gunky junk, stuff to seal, block seal....) in there is not a good sign and if you or someone did that to cover something up it usually doesn't last AND usually becomes it's own problem!
Back: As soon as heater quits it's either boiling or just has passed a bubble further along and if you are in fact boiling or too hot in engine you defeat all the purging you already did and start over! That's why we make the big bucks!
Here's a link I wrote with info here at this site + from others too on purging air - especially for DIYers.....
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...ling_Systems_P36410/
You probably have a light to indicate low coolant and it senses that on the radiator and you can't see if there's liquid or air there but it does.
The A/C light is possibly low refrigerant and not really anything to be involved in with just the cooling system and engine running temps right now. Take that as a separate issue completely as it's separate to this problem.
Head gaskets are frequently a maybe and makes it harder to know at first if filling the system is difficult to begin with like this car is. Gasses can be detected at the fill reservoir for exhaust/combustion gasses which is a serious clue of troubles.
If it's that much trouble for you then you should seek professional help and a diagnosis if it doesn't behave.
Cost of head gasket job will vary and needs a damage assessment before you can get a quote. Expect a lot of bucks if it needs those or tons of bucks if bad enough!
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Mar 1, 2009, 2:37 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
xdxbatmanxcx
Novice
Mar 1, 2009, 10:34 AM
Post #6 of 9
(5745 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
okay well im going to take it and see what they have to say. but i do appreciate all the help
|
|
| |
|
|
xdxbatmanxcx
Novice
Mar 6, 2009, 1:25 PM
Post #7 of 9
(5732 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
ok guys i found out my problem.. my fan isnt working.. i replaced the fuse to start with and that worked.. BUT.. doing so a wire started smoking and stopped the fan.. so i replaced the wire and it worked.. BUT.. then another wire smoked.. when it was on the fan was running super speed.. the car was not even hot and the fan was flying.. i wanna assume the wires were not big enough gauge to hold the power it generated thats why they got to hot.. i also am not a mechanic but i am gonna assume that it was a rig job on whomever had the car and tried to fix the fan. but i think that it needs a switch or sensor to make the fan go slower and turn off.. because i noticed it wouldnt shut off.. so with all this being said do either of you have any suggestions?? tomor i am going to a shop but would like to hear from you guys before if possible.. thank you for your time
darren
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 7, 2009, 3:26 AM
Post #8 of 9
(5727 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
If wiring has been altered you are going to have to see what doesn't look original. Fan working when not even called for could be that you have defroster, defog or something on - turn the climate controls off for testing or leave on heat only or vent only. Fans can be triggered with a defrost request.
Melted wire insulation! Ack! The motor may be drawing too much current or the gauge of wire really is under size. If splicing in new wire certainly try to get right gauge and color if at all possible. There could also be a relay that's burned, stuck causing fan to stay on.
With hacked wiring it opens the book for lots of possibilities. Keep things fused with proper amp fuses if any blow while working with this,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
xdxbatmanxcx
Novice
Mar 7, 2009, 11:01 AM
Post #9 of 9
(5723 views)
|
|
Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?
|
Sign In
|
|
will do i'm gonna have some stuff checked out today thanks for the help again tom much appreciation
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
Strut spring orientation and strut mount tension nut
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
Brake Seals Bulging
