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milling machine
User
Mar 1, 2013, 5:17 PM
Post #1 of 12
(2261 views)
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I have a 2000 nissan maxima it has slight pinging only when going up the steepest hills other than that it runs excellent. This same problem happened about 4 or 5 yrs ago and changing the MAF solved the problem I get only about 2 volts on snap throttle using the scope I think I should get something close to 4 volts but I am not sure--also the factory service manual says the MAF should be putting out about 14.1 gm/sec at about 3,000 rpm on the scanner the best I can get is about 10 gm/sec--Do you think changing the MAF again would solve the problem--the only other thing that is wrong with it is that it seems to have high fuel pressure the manual says-- 34 psi at idle and about 43 with the regulator hose off I get about 48 psi at idle and about 56 psi with the regulator hose off but I do not think this would be related to the pinging problem anyways--it is probably a bad pressure regulator
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 1, 2013, 5:37 PM
Post #2 of 12
(2255 views)
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Are you sure your fuel pressure gauge is right. That is very uncommon. Check you EGR system carefully and make sure the passage isn't restricting flow. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 1, 2013, 5:49 PM)
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 1, 2013, 5:38 PM
Post #3 of 12
(2244 views)
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Are you running a K&N filter or any other type of oiled filter? Have you tried cleaning the MAF? Have you verified with certainty that there are no rips or leaks in the air ducting post-MAF and the engine doesn't have any vac leaks?
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milling machine
User
Mar 1, 2013, 6:50 PM
Post #4 of 12
(2223 views)
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I have not cleaned the egr passages but I will have to also it just uses the normal air filter I will have to double check for vacuum leaks although I do not think there are any-the fuel pressure gauge is correct I know the pressures do seem strange but that is what they are. Also the vehicle has over a 165,000 miles on it-it might possibly be carboned up pistons I will have to check for high compression I have not tried to clean the MAF sensor I will tomorrow and put it back on the scope to see if it makes a difference
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milling machine
User
Mar 1, 2013, 7:19 PM
Post #5 of 12
(2221 views)
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I went and checked the ducting like one of you suggested and found the large black ducting after the MAF sensor to be all cracked up it was difficult to tell until you pulled on it then you could easily see the cracks-it must have been allowing un-metered air in
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 2, 2013, 4:02 PM
Post #6 of 12
(2201 views)
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Glad you found it. EGR flow is worth checking on too, as HT had suggested. Loss of EGR flow will cause pinging under load. Did fixing the ducting get rid of the issue?
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milling machine
User
Mar 3, 2013, 5:37 PM
Post #7 of 12
(2189 views)
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I will check it tomorrow with the scope and see if changing the ducting made a difference-I am sure it will because the ducting was completely cracked all around--but I now have another problem while changing the brakes I discovered a broken boot on the cv joint It is the driver side joint--the service manual says you cannot remove it unless you first remove the right side one--does anyone know if it is possible to remove the driver side cv axle without taking out the right side one--this is a 2000 nissan maxima automatic trans
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 3, 2013, 6:23 PM
Post #8 of 12
(2184 views)
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No, you shouldn't have to remove the other side for anything. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 3, 2013, 6:46 PM
Post #9 of 12
(2179 views)
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It shouldn't be a problem.......Some cars getting a good spot to pop the left axle out is limited but you should have any trouble with this. For real tight ones s/o makes a tool to help remove those that requires the r axle to be removed but the only ones I've ever needed to do that on were Mazdas & Ford Escorts (with the same Mazda design)... I'm not sure what route you are going but I would go with a new axle,,,,the prices on the axles have really come down & it makes the job a lot easier and both joints are new with new boots
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milling machine
User
Mar 3, 2013, 7:44 PM
Post #10 of 12
(2169 views)
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Thanks for the answers
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 3, 2013, 7:50 PM
Post #11 of 12
(2167 views)
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No problem.....I'm sure/hope you read thru my typo..........you shouldn't have any trouble with this......
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milling machine
User
Mar 7, 2013, 9:39 AM
Post #12 of 12
(2129 views)
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Yes I understood your typo--also I said I would report on how the repair came out the maf improved from about 10gm/sec to about 13gm/sec by just changing the maf boot but the scope reading stayed the same on snap throttle at about 2 volts the factor service manual says it should get to about 3.8 volts but this might be for a new one--the pinging seems to have went away though--also I do not think this maxima has a maf burn off system but I am not sure
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