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Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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tooanoyu
Novice
Mar 20, 2011, 9:51 AM
Post #1 of 11
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Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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1998 Chevy Suburban K1500 (4X4) 5.7L 350Vortec - Miles 180K - Fuel Pressure 60lbs / Timing Light on (light lights)#1 has spark. Driving appx 1 mile from home truck died on light aceleration, Now will not start.
Fuel pump just replaced (4days ago) Yes fuel pump operating (60 lbs).
Oil Pressure switch was replaced 1year ago (yes when showing low oil pressure there it is a cut off switch for the fuel pump) switch was replaced 1 year ago it failed for refusal to shut fuel pump off (short). Fuel Regulator replaced with injectors appx 40K miles ago (130K).
Trouble codes: it has been throwing DTC P0300 (random mis-fire) and P0404 (EGR). I am aware the P0300 is due to needing to replace the timing chain. P0404 will go away.
Is it the timing pick up? << no cause I am getting spark.
Hopefully this is clear if not email to Effective 14 U at google com or tele 949 . three 0 two 4 six seven 6. Thank you in advance for your help Abel
Country: United States
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Suburban K1500 4x4
Year: 1998
Area: Engine 5.7L
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2011, 10:18 AM
Post #2 of 11
(1807 views)
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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Not sure what you replaced there but that truck doesn't have any type of fuel shut off beyond the Passlock security system.
If you have a timing chain bad enough to cause a PO300, you probably should be doing a compression test.
Since you have fuel pressure and spark, try spraying some starting fluid into the intake to see if the injectors may not be firing.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 20, 2011, 10:19 AM)
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tooanoyu
Novice
Mar 20, 2011, 11:14 AM
Post #3 of 11
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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Good Morning Hammer Time.!...yup was hitting the store for starting fluid for that test in a little while. still a head scratcher. Hopelfully description was good enough. The P0300 goes on and off for the last 3 months. recently the P0404 just srated posting. I have a scan guage II attached. This is a cool tool goes on the ODBII port and give you real time reporting and records the DTC's When it died a mile from the house it just quit. No major noises (like a timing chain poping)....etc....
I do all my own repairs and have quite a bit of experience, I appreciate any help you can provide. Off to the parts store to get some starting fliud.
Thanks Abel (2annoyu)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2011, 11:25 AM
Post #4 of 11
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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The PO404 is an "open pintle" for the EGR. If you happen to get a chunk of carbon caught in the EGR, preventing it from closing, it would give you a rough idle, possible PO300 and PO404
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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tooanoyu
Novice
Mar 20, 2011, 1:07 PM
Post #5 of 11
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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Ok back from the part store with some starting fluid.
Lettuce Review:
YES - 60lbs of fuel pressure.
YES - Spark on ALL Plugs
YES - Spark on and from coil
YES - All pulled plugs are brown (medium) in color with slight fuel odor. Not wet (I would perfer to change based on my standards) TUNE up after I get it running.
Yes - Pulled all the plugs on the right bank facing front or truck ALL have compression. All hiss and puff very well out of the plug hole
YES - Starting fluid in intake Yes held the throtle body open to mix with air.
YES - Oil pressure (after enough cranking) << not that stupid oil pressure switch/cutoff sensor.
NOTHING no bump, no jump "no thinging" using the starting fluid.
In Hammertime previous stmt...asked if I pass sec sytem....YES <<< Aftermarket Viper alarm and remote start. Yes I tried starting with remote start nothing. Has old keyless entry used that does lock/unlock doors attemting starting on all adjustments. Question having YES to all the above in testing why would the pass sec system make a difference? I can hack (gingerly remove) the security systems out of the electrical system but why would it make a difference? if you have the 3 components necessary to make an engine run why?
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tooanoyu
Novice
Mar 20, 2011, 1:43 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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YO...Hammertime....I know that this is a flat plat form of communication missing expluratives and maybe some real meaning.....and not only do I wanna help me but you as well in case it could come up in the future....and all the wierd crazy $hiT happens to me..
OIL Pressure Switch <<<< does control the fuel cut off PER AllData and tech manuals. there are 3 wires on that thing located just below the distributor cap and is not your standard looking oil pressure switch It does control the fuel pump. WHY and How do I know this Tracing the wires and reviewing the tech manual and wiring diagrams on All Data (alldatadiy.com) Mine shorted out a year ago and caused the fuel pump to NOT shut off with the key out and would drain the battery by morning. Fustrating but true. pictured below. all of my diatribe. << Only to help not to critisize...
Your compression numbers are 145 to 180lbs ppsq. (in case the dial guage is wrong needle shows 180 degrees around the clock) more than enough).
Any ways.....back to the problem.....I'm on my way to get a Crank Position sensor ($58.00) to see if thats the cure all the other motor heads I'm friends with are all leaning towards this. ...We will see.
Again I appreciate your thoughts Ideas and Opinions.....Abel (2annoyu) <<< that by the way is the lic plate on one of the Harley's I own and build. it is one of the loudest you have ever heard and seriously so loud no one rides behind me on the right rear (cone of silence) very fast for a harley why the cam is ground to hold a lot of static compression...... I do consider Harleys over glorified John Deer tractor on 2 wheels.
Off to the parts store....
For your 1998 Chevrolet Truck K1500 1/2ton Sub 4WD 5.7L SFI 8cyl Price: $22.99
 When the oil pressure is either high or low it will either turn the oil light "on" in the dash or move the gauge to the extremes. - Undetected high or low oil pressure can result in internal engine damage and/or gasket leakage.
- Designed to meet or exceed OE specifications in form, fit and function.
- Global coverage for import and/or domestic applications.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2011, 2:23 PM
Post #8 of 11
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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I don't plan on arguing with you so I'm only going to explain this once. The oil pressure switch does not cut out the fuel pump.
it is just a redundant power supply to the fuel pump but does not have the ability to cut it off. You can remove the fuel pump relay and the engine will continue to run with the relay out but if the relay is in, you can unplug the oil pressure switch and it will stay running. The car will run off one or the other.
Here is the explanation directly from Alldata
Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position (before engaging the starter), the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) energizes the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds causing the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system. If the VCM does not receive the ignition reference pulses (engine cranking or running) within 2 seconds, the control module shuts off the fuel pump relay, causing the fuel pump to stop.
As a backup system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump oil pressure switch can energize the fuel pump. The switch has 2 internal circuits. One circuit operates the oil pressure indicator or gage in the instrument cluster. The other circuit is a normally open switch which closes when the oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi). If the fuel pump relay fails, the fuel pump oil pressure switch runs the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking times, particularly if the engine is cold. The fuel pump oil pressure switch energizes the fuel pump as soon as oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi).
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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tooanoyu
Novice
Mar 20, 2011, 4:30 PM
Post #9 of 11
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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were off track and derailed...I'm over the oil pressure switch I'm still on the main problem...Changed Crank sensor on it Negative result. Now on to the Cam sensor or the ICM 1st is the Cam Sensor seems like it might bee the more logical problem or solution based on synapsis. so I'm to the parts store again.
No worries Hammertime....never go after the messenger.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2011, 4:35 PM
Post #10 of 11
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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You're just wasting money until you determine what it lost ie: fuel pressure, injector pulse, spark or compression. You lost one of them so that's what you have to find out.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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tooanoyu
Novice
Mar 20, 2011, 7:32 PM
Post #11 of 11
(1751 views)
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Re: Not Running - Yes Fuel - Yes Spark
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Fixed Cam Sensor! Toasted the Cap and rotor (changed) I'll do the plugs when it quits raining.
Thank you so much for you Ideas and Opinions I do appreciate it! You kept me thinking before I tore into the project to much.
I needed to think thru the Synopsys of the Symptomatic problems. If you go to Sturgis in August I'll buy you a beer or 2 or 3....
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