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Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 11, 2012, 4:41 PM
Post #26 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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You need to be real careful with Superclean, especially if you are not diluting it. It's very corrosive and will destroy paint. That's been around a long time but it's strong stuff.
Unless you already had blue smoke issues after idling, I wouldn't worry about the seals. The can be changed in the car later with air pressure anyway.
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 12, 2012, 6:53 AM
Post #27 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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Good to know about the Superclean. I didn't realize it's been around for awhile. I first saw it a few months ago.
I'm not sure if the van was blowing blue smoke after idle because it had been sitting since May because of the tranny. I don't believe it was though. Is it all that difficult to replace the valve stem seals? What all does it entail? Pretty much compress the spring, remove the keepers, and pull them out?
There is a decent amount of carbon buildup on everything. The spark plugs, throttle body, valve stems, tops of pistons, etc all have some decent buildup. Do you think it would be a good idea to pull the valve stems and clean them up real good? What's a good way to clean the piston tops without having carbon fall down around the rings? Is there anything that will dissolve it?
One other thing. When you pull the heads on a Venture what exhaust components to you usually remove? There was one bolt that was a pita on the rear head. (is that considered the left or right side of the engine?). I just disconnected the manifold. It says to remove the crossover pipe but I didn't. Didn't seem like there was any reason to. Now that the heads are off I wonder if it would be easier to remove the bolts the from the rear manifold to the pipe running to the rear. They are easier to get to from above compared to the manifold bolts. I could then assemble the manifold to the head before putting it back on the block. All I'd have to do is install the 3 bolts instead of messing with the 6 manifold bolts and the heat shield. What are your thoughts on this? Other than the one pain in the butt bolt I guess it's not all that bad. Even that one isn't too horrible. It will be easier now since I picked up a 13mm gear wrench. I'm not sure where my old one went. That wrench would of made it much easier to remove.
Thanks for the advice. I learn something new everyday from you guys. One of these days I might actually do everything the right way from start to finish. Live and learn I guess.
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nickwarner
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Dec 12, 2012, 4:06 PM
Post #29 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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At your mileage level, with the heads in the machine shop anyhow, I'd just have them go through it. Those seals aren't very pricey anyway, and they will have plenty on the shelf. If it has some valve guide wear or the seats need to be lapped they can do it at the same time. Won't cost much extra since they'll already have to take them apart to shave the deck. While they're at it they change little pests like the frost plugs in it too. They have plenty of tricks to get broken bolts out too, and well worth it to let them handle it and send you back fully rebuilt heads. While they're doing it pay the extra couple bucks to have them magnafluxed. They can find even the smallest cracks with that and I have it done to everything I send my machinist as cheap insurance. If it fails the mag test then I know I need to find new heads and not waste any more time or money on junk castings.
If you were going to put them in yourself later you'd be doing what you're discussing with HT. You'd unscrew the spark plug and put in a cylinder leakage tester to keep the valves from falling in which would make you have to pull the head back off to get the little devil.
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nickwarner
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Dec 12, 2012, 4:20 PM
Post #31 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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I knew I shouldn't have taken the stupid pills today. Forgot these were aluminum.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 12, 2012, 4:26 PM
Post #32 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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LOL
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 13, 2012, 8:55 AM
Post #33 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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Man, now you have me really messed up!...lol
I ended up getting the broken bolt out on my own with an extractor. It was a piece of cake. I thought pulling the bolts off of the manifold was going to be a pain but they all came out with ease. There was only one that was a pain to get to. It was one of those bolts where you're only able to turn it a 1/16 of a turn each time. If I would have been able to find my 13mm gear wrench it would've been much easier. I have one now for installation though.
What's the best way to clean the piston tops? Will small pieces of carbon hurt anything if they fall down around the rings? I read some info that pieces of carbon could be a bad thing. I know you guys will let me know for sure. I figure I'll just keep the shop vac on them while I'm cleaning them. Should I just spray them down with some parts cleaner and then hit them with a brass wheel or is that a bad thing to do? If so, I assume a toothbrush would be the better option? Would pouring some Seafoam on them work? I've never cleaned piston tops so just not sure which is the best way to go about it.
Hey Nick, here's a tribute song for you!
I assume this link is okay since it's not geared toward any product or advertising
nope, your own pictures and videos only
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Dec 13, 2012, 9:08 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 13, 2012, 9:10 AM
Post #34 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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A plastic scraper would be the only thing safe for the pistons. You don't want any scratches or sharp edges, they melt.
There are ways to get that out after it's running too by slowly feeding a little trans fluid or water into a vacuum line but you have to be very careful not to give it too much and hydro-lock the engine. That would be a very bad thing.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Dec 13, 2012, 9:13 AM)
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 13, 2012, 11:45 AM
Post #35 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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I think waiting until afterwards might be the way to go since there seemed to be quite a bit of carbon buildup. If you don't mind, I'll have to get a detailed description from you on how I go about it once I get closer to starting it up. I might hit them with a plastic scraper first and see how much I can get off and then decide.
Thanks HT.
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 15, 2012, 9:28 AM
Post #36 of 47
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Re: Head Gasket Replacement 2002 Chevy Venture
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The machine shop finished up the heads yesterday afternoon. Luckily they both checked out good. I figured with the way things have been going with this van I was going to have to purchase two new heads. Not sure what those would've cost me but I remember the one for the Sunbird was around $350 to $400 and that was before aluminum prices went up. That was back in 2001 I think.
I went ahead and replaced the valve stem seals since they came in the head gasket kit. I just didn't want to have to possibly go back in later. I got everything cleaned up on the Venture. I went ahead and took a plastic scraper and a toothbrush to the piston tops and everything cleaned up real good. Everything had a bunch of carbon buildup so I cleaned everything up real good. Just curious but how does carbon buildup effect engine performance? I noticed over the last few years that gas mileage in the van dropped. I was getting maybe 23 on the highway and it was down to around 18. Will cleaning up all of the carbon help engine performance? I cleaned the tb, inside of the lower and upper intake, and piston tops. Is there anything else I could clean or replace to help engine performance
Well, hopefully the wife doesn't have any plans today so I can finish up. Well, not yet I guess, my kids just said it's time to decorate the Christmas tree.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 15, 2012, 9:46 AM
Post #37 of 47
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Carbon is the residue of burned oil and fuel. The biggest problem is that it tends to break off in chunks and get caught in places where it interferes with things. If you get too much on the top of your piston, it will not only increase the compression ratio but edges will create hot spots and can cause some detonation. I have even seen extreme amounts cause knocking when the piston top hits the head.
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 15, 2012, 12:46 PM
Post #38 of 47
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Thanks for the explanation HT.
Is there any certain torque procedure for the head? It says to tighten to 44 ft/lbs using the torque sequence and then an additional 95 degrees. When I did the Sunbird years ago I think I remember that it said to torque, then loosen, and torque again. I just want to make sure I do this right.
Since I don't have a angle meter I thought about turning the bolts another 1/4 turn since that's roughly 90 degrees but I don't want to screw this up. I'm off to the parts store to pick up an torque angle meter. Anything else you think I'll need?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 15, 2012, 1:06 PM
Post #39 of 47
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New head bolts..................... very important.
Those are "torque to yield" bolts that actually stretch and cannot be re-used. I don't think the 5 degrees would be critical but try to be as accurate as possible and don't loosen unless it tells you to.
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 15, 2012, 1:33 PM
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Thanks HT. Angle meter was only $10$100 so I got it. I also ordered new head bolts when I got the head gasket kit. If it was 15 years ago I probably would have reused then. I don't do that stupid crap anymore. I've learned the hard way.
I'll be happy when I have the rear exhaust manifold on. Smooth sailing from there.
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 17, 2012, 9:55 AM
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Well, I finished up everything yesterday except for topping off fluids so did that this morning. I'm getting ready to fire her up and bleed the cooling system. Keep your fingers crossed for me!
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 17, 2012, 1:06 PM
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Well, took it for a drive. I always take a 5 mile loop around the outside of town. Everything was going fine until the last mile. All of the sudden there was steam everywhere, the temp gauge started climbing, and I smelled that distinct smell of coolant. I got home, popped the hood, and waited for the steam to clear. I started it back up and started looking for the leak. It wasn't spraying but I noticed the drip right above the crossover exhaust pipe. The metal coolant tube that's located on the backside of the thermostat housing popped loose. The other end of the metal tube connects to some rubber hoses near the firewall. Does it go to the heater core? I remember hooking it back up and I even replaced the o-ring. There's no bracket that holds it in place. I assume it's just the o-ring the keeps it somewhat snug. I was able to reach back and push it in and it doesn't seem all that tight. I started it up again and all seems fine. I'm just worried it's going to pop off again. The o-ring that came in the kit seemed to match in size but I'm wondering if I should try and put a thicker o ring on there. I even thought about putting some rtv, not near the o-ring, but towards the outside just to help hold it in place. I assume that's not the correct way to go about it though? What do you guys recommend?
I was a little p.o.'d at first until I noticed where the leak was coming from. Other than the leak everything else seems to be working great so that's a good thing. Fixing this leak shouldn't be to tough at all as long as I can get to it. It's down in there and there's not much arm room.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 17, 2012, 1:16 PM
Post #43 of 47
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If you mean this, the bracket holds it in.
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 17, 2012, 1:27 PM
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I just came back in to edit my post. I went out to check the size of the o-ring. When I went to pull it out I felt the bracket that wasn't tightened down.
Like always, you're right.
That makes me feel much better! If that was my only screw up on this job I'll take it. Although, I only drove it 5 miles so it's hard saying what else will fall off!
Thanks HT.
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 17, 2012, 3:53 PM
Post #45 of 47
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I got the coolant line tightened down, took it for a drive, and it's good to go. Power steering seems to be fine too. I think it was just air in the system all along. When I did the tranny I noticed that the plug on the bottom of the steering rack was leaking so took that out and sealed it. I also replaced both lines to the pump. I've never had to do anything of that so I think I might have just been use to the amount of air from a regular pump or line change. It took a good half hour though so I'm not sure. I don't really care as long as it's working now. Just need a couple front tires and an alignment and it'll be good to go.
Well guys, thanks so much for a job well done. Like always, every single question I had was answered. I've always enjoyed working on my vehicles, but having you guys here takes the stress out of it. I know you all can bail me out if I run into a problem.
The only upcoming vehicle work I have now is the t-stat in the Envoy and I'm guessing the rear main seal in the Sierra. I'm going to do the t-stat right away but I'm not going to mess with the Sierra until after the first of the year. I figure your fingers could use a break from typing!
Thanks for another success story!
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Dec 17, 2012, 3:54 PM)
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nickwarner
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Dec 17, 2012, 4:49 PM
Post #46 of 47
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Only two pages? Come on man, you're slacking. Glad the van is done for now. I'm sure the wife is too.
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MarineGrunt
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Dec 17, 2012, 5:59 PM
Post #47 of 47
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Well, you probably need to add the pages from the intake thread that I did earlier this year. Since you guys had already helped me out on that one I somewhat knew what I was doing.
I'm glad the van is done too but I'm sure after one evening of having to hangout with the wife I'll end up starting the Sierra much sooner instead of waiting until after the 1st of the year.
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