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Engine won't idle after warmed up
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Points & Condenser
User
Nov 7, 2011, 5:10 PM
Post #1 of 4
(3691 views)
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Engine won't idle after warmed up
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Hey Tom, thanks for the suggestions so far but I think you may have miss-understood, could be the way I'm explaining it. I had stale varnished gas and it stuck some of my in-take valves, bent push rods and made the timing chain jump. I never had a slow cranking problem and never overheated.
I had one of the heads done by a pro shop and one I did myself with the advice of the machine shop. I put in a new Timing chain, 3 push rods, cleaned the lifters and checked the camshaft. I removed the gas tank and cleaned it like new with Lacquer Thinner. I flushed all the gas lines, replaced the gas filter and cleaned out the carb with carb cleaner.
Once all was done it started right up and ran ok, I made a few adjustments and it ran good I have all gauges in it and the oil pressure is 25 @ idle, 45 @ 1500 and 60 when cold (all exactly like always) The engine temp maxes at 190 and you can watch the temp drop as the thermostat opens down to 170 and back up to 190 over and again (like always). Once it was fully warmed up (170-190) if I shut it off and tried to restart it acted like an almost dead battery very slow turning. Let the truck drop back to 140 and it starts right up. To take out the the possibility of a bad starter or cables, I put in all new stuff, even though the starter was 5 years old and had 21,000 miles on the engine. The problem was almost the same except it cranked a little faster.
This time while the engine was at normal temp. I locked the parking brake and raised the idle enough to keep it running and then moved the distributor to the point of the smoothest running. Then checked it with my timing light and it was 14 degrees BTDC. I shut it off and even though it was cranking slowly it would still start so I locked the distributor. The truck has plenty of power and tork can spin the tires and runs smoothly.
The main problem I am having now is when I put it in gear it stalls right out, the only way I can keep it running is to use the gas and brake to have the power to eliminate the stall, like power braking it to build up tork (like the old days at a stop light in a race). Every time I have to stop I either have to work the gas and brake or shift into neutral until the light changes and then get the RPM's up a little and drop it back in drive.
Previous History
(This post was edited by Sidom on Nov 7, 2011, 9:14 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 8, 2011, 5:00 AM
Post #2 of 4
(3659 views)
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Re: Engine won't idle after warmed up
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I'm at a loss w this. Never saw or heard of bent push rods and valves from bad gas but always a first time. Split thread now as you can see. ??!! One head worked on by machine shop and one by you? Why and what was done to them?
Why the range of operating temps? It should pick the thermostat's rating (believed to be 195 +/-) and stay exactly there hot or cold day.
If it fluctuates block may be part or a lot full of junk in water jackets. Carb should have been taken apart to clean out not just sprayed.
So much is going on with this and appears so many variables I'm lost as said.
Back: Carbs: Three systems after choke is OFF. Idle, mid range and WOT. Bottom, middle and top. They blend when changing from one to the other and under load idle system is unused as with WOT (wide open throttle.) This carb did not TMK block the idle mixture screws and if ever ran well at idle and they haven't been messed with should again where they are. count turns in so they can be removed and put back to same spot. If no info try for 3 turns out and keep count. When those are out you should be able to spray carb cleaner right thru them and they do cake up in there sometimes needing fine wire or tricks to clear them out.
Carb right and lack of vacuum leaks has tons to do with idle as does a choke that doesn't work properly. If that choke (dunno) is heated by exhaust gas w a tube with a asbestos sock over it there's a metered vacuum leak inside black housing w choke spring that must be clear or it will take ages for choke to shut off fouling up plugs and all that goes with over fueling.
Cranking slow when fully warmed up should have nothing to do with its carb.
Next checks should be for vacuum leaks even if done already do it again. If heads don't match as in if one was planed and one not there's a problem there too.
If engine is hot like in the back not registered by gauge which is up front which could be fine it would alter performance when warm. There are bolts (drain plugs for block) low on sides of block. Bet if you take them out no coolant comes out - guessing for now,
Tom
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lumberjack_43
User
Jan 7, 2012, 2:31 PM
Post #3 of 4
(3550 views)
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Re: Engine won't idle after warmed up
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The slow turn over does this car or truck have the timing wire in the dash because if so you time it with it connected and your timing will be retard that is what happened to me never heard of the wire under the dash untill after i timed it and the truck always had a hard start and the timing was was turned way back
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 7, 2012, 3:16 PM
Post #4 of 4
(3544 views)
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Re: Engine won't idle after warmed up
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Old thread now lumberjack - please look at the dates. If this problem isn't solved by now this person has probably moved on to fix it somehow unknown,
T
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