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Dodge charging then stops???
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SillyBilly
Novice
Aug 23, 2008, 11:25 PM
Post #1 of 5
(2929 views)
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Dodge charging then stops???
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Hey Carjunky's,
I have a 1990 dodge b250 3/4ton van w/ 318 5.2 ltr4. engine. My problem was a few months ago my alt/amp meter showed not charging, the check engine light came on, so I pulled off to a station, before I could get stopped, the amp/alt gauge showed charging. I turned the motor off, checked the batt. belts, and wires to altenator, all was good.I checked the codes and it was 5-1 problem in voltage regulator circiut. A few weeks later, same thing, but always seemed to start charging again. Well it finally is stuck in the nocharge mode, the battery reads about 12volts not running, and running about 11.89. If I pull the negative cable it dies(I know I was not6 supposed to). The book says the voltage regulator is in the altenator, and the computer controls it. How do I test the altenator, and or computer? Is there any suggestions? I thought it might just had been a short to ground because it always seem to start charging if I like turned or hit some bumps, but was totally coincedence. I have pulled the dash to check the wires, I needed to any way to replace some bulbs, and found no broke or cut wires. I am clueless now. I hope I give enough info on this.
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autojoe
User
Aug 24, 2008, 4:44 PM
Post #2 of 5
(2920 views)
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Re: Dodge charging then stops???
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Voltage Drop Test
Before proceeding, make sure the battery is in good condition and fully charged.
Perform a voltage drop test of the positive side of the circuit as follows: - Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
- Turn the headlamps, heater blower motor and interior lights on.
- Bring the engine to about 2,500 rpm and hold it there.
- Connect the negative voltmeter lead directly to the battery positive terminal.
- Touch the positive voltmeter lead directly to the alternator B+ output stud, not the nut. The meter should read no higher than about 0.5 volts. If it does, there is higher than normal resistance between the positive side of the battery and the B+ output at the alternator.
- Move the positive meter lead to the nut and see if the voltage reading drops substantially. If it does, there is resistance between the stud and the nut. The theory is to keep moving closer to the battery terminal, one connection at a time, in order to find the area of high resistance (bad connection).
Perform a voltage drop test of the negative side of the circuit as follows: - Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
- Turn the headlamps, heater blower motor and interior lights on.
- Bring the engine to about 2,500 rpm and hold it there.
- Connect the negative voltmeter lead directly to the negative battery terminal.
- Touch the positive voltmeter lead directly to the alternator case or ground connection. The meter should read no higher than about 0.3 volts. If it does, there is higher than normal resistance between the battery ground terminal and the alternator ground.
- Move the positive meter lead to the alternator mounting bracket. If the voltage reading drops substantially, you know that there is a bad electrical connection between the alternator and mounting bracket. The theory is to keep moving closer to the battery terminal, one connection at a time, in order to find the area of high resistance (bad connection).
Current Output Test
The current output test requires the use of a volt/amp tester with battery load control and an inductive amperage pick-up. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the use of the equipment. - Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
- Apply the parking brake and turn off all electrical accessories.
- Connect the tester to the battery terminals and cable according to the instructions.
- Bring the engine to about 2,500 rpm and hold it there.
- Apply a load to charging system with the rheostat on the tester. Do not let the voltage drop below 4 volts.
- The alternator should deliver to within 2% of the rated output. If the amperage is not within 2% and all other components test okay, replace the alternator.
Alternator Isolation Test
On some models, it is possible to isolate the alternator from the regulator by grounding the field terminal. Grounding the field terminal removes the regulator from the circuit and forces full alternator output. On alternators equipped with internal regulators, we recommend replacing the complete assembly if either the alternator or regulator is defective.
Chrysler models have two field terminals, one positive and one negative. The positive terminal will have battery voltage present and the negative terminal will have 3-5 volts less. WARNING Do not let the voltage get higher than 18 volts. Damage to electrical circuits may occur. - Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals so the voltage can be monitored.
- Start the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature.
- Connect a jumper lead to a good ground.
- Locate the field terminal (negative) on the back of the alternator.
- Momentarily connect the grounded jumper to the field terminal. If the alternator is okay, the voltage will climb rapidly. Disconnect the jumper before the output reaches 18 volts. If the voltage does not rise, replace the alternator. If the voltage rises, the regulator is bad.
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autojoe
User
Aug 24, 2008, 4:49 PM
Post #3 of 5
(2919 views)
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Re: Dodge charging then stops???
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i got the information from autozone.com.Check all connections at alternator and also at battery.The voltage drop test will tell you if a problem on the voltage or ground side of the circuit.Most chances are a defective alternator.One way is to take alternator off vehicle and have tested off vehicle by local parts store.They can check output.Advance and autozone will do this for free.If it tests good then problem with voltage/ground or wiring or pcm.Voltage drop will lead you to problem.
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SillyBilly
Novice
Sep 2, 2008, 2:27 AM
Post #4 of 5
(2863 views)
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Re: Dodge charging then stops???
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Sorry for the delay in getting back,,, Family Emergency accured. Thanks for all the info,,, I took the altenator off and took it to be tested, and it passed all test, I also took the battery and it also passed all test. Every thing I have read points to the computer. Just a lot of money I would think just for a guess, but I am at an end. I get code 4-1 which states that I have a problem in the generator circuit, and every thing else checks out... Any more clues, are is there a way to test or have tested the computer?
Thanks again, everyone has been a great help!!!
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autojoe
User
Sep 5, 2008, 8:47 AM
Post #5 of 5
(2845 views)
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Re: Dodge charging then stops???
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best way to troubleshoot code 41 is with a scanner.Code 41 denotes a problem with the voltage regulator.second best way would be to attach a frequency counter,tachometer,or dwell meter to the field control wire of the alternator.Which one is the field control wire?It is probably the terminal with the dark green wire attached to it.There are two small wires on the back of the alternator.One of these is field power and the other is field control.With the engine running connect a dc voltmeter to each of the smaller terminals,first one then the other.One terminal should read almost the exact voltage that is found across the terminals of the battery.The other should be slightly lower.If they are both the same,there is probably an open between the alternator and the computer.Next choose a meter that can detect and confirm a pulsing dc voltage.Connect this meter to the field control wire,the one with the lower voltage.If both terminals had the same voltage,try to detect a pulse on both wires.On the frequency counter,one of the wires should read a frequency greater than zero.On the tachometer,on of the wires should read an rpm greater than zero.On the dwell meter set on the four cylinder scale,one of the wires should read a dwell greater than 0 degrees but less than 90 degrees.If the readings are outside the range of the specifications given above,check the dark green wire to the computer for continuity.If the wire is good,replace the computer.
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