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Distributor Problems in Nova!
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Zburns
Novice
Feb 23, 2011, 2:10 AM
Post #1 of 23
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Distributor Problems in Nova!
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Hey, this is my first post here so hey everybody... So;
1974 Chevy Nova Custom
Car - 400,000 miles
Engine - ~100k (Ballpark)
350 4bbl 5.7L
I had to replace my intake manifold gasket and when I went to put the Distributor back in the car I noticed that the small line i drew was gone ( i should scratch it in next time huh?) and i ttempted to line it up like i saw it when i took it off and of course it would crank...no noise...crank...repeat. The battery then died so I charged it and tried agian and the same thing happend. So I pulled the first fuse, felt for compression, realigned the rotor with the first fuse and it started a little roughly then remained at idle. We reset the idle speed and did great. When I tried to drive teh second I hit the gas it died. It runs very rough and will die if I hit the gas. There is a line next to the timing belt but no numbers to indicate TDC or anything. I am getting very frustrated since this car used to run very well; smooth with no hesitation. I am going to take it to a shop to see if they can adjust it perfectly since I am probably off by a few notches on the rotor but does anyone have any advice or for something I should do before I take it in. I am going to check and make sure the wires are going from the distributor to the correct spark plugs tomorrow morning. THanks
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 23, 2011, 5:38 AM
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Re: Distributor Problems in Nova!
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If you don't have a timing light, then you're probably just spinning your wheels. You will need someone else to do it for you.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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MyBlackHeep
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Feb 23, 2011, 9:41 AM
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It's an old Nova, doesn't get much simpler that that. Sounds like your close on the timing just need to fine tune it a bit. You either need a bit of advance or retard to get what you need.
Loosen the distributor retaining bolt to the intake, but still keep it a bit snug. You want to be able to rotate the distributor CW and CCW. Start the motor and bit by bit rotate the distributor both ways til you get a really strong idle. Throttle response should be best when you are close. If you like how it runs and you have no mods to the motor or ignition system then it should be pretty simple to do. If you're concerned with it after you get it running right take it to a good "old school" mechanic and have em exact the timing for you. Timing on that old car is really simple.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
(This post was edited by MyBlackHeep on Feb 23, 2011, 9:44 AM)
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MyBlackHeep
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Feb 25, 2011, 11:44 AM
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Re: Distributor Problems in Nova!
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Thought this was a site to help and get help...? Where is it?
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re-tired
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Feb 25, 2011, 12:19 PM
Post #6 of 23
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Re: Distributor Problems in Nova!
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You asked what it would take to get timing restored to specs .You were told you needed a timing light to do the procedure. What else were you wanting to know.
LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 25, 2011, 2:02 PM
Post #7 of 23
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No, he didn't ask for help. He's not the original poster, just some know it all that thinks everything can be "winged"
I'm glad he's not screwing with my car.
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MyBlackHeep
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Feb 26, 2011, 10:37 PM
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Re: Distributor Problems in Nova!
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I've had some of my best "winged" vehicles outrun some of the best modded rides out there. It's about experience smart guy. Read the last few sentences of my last post. I was trying to get him a running vehicle to take to someone who would get him exact. But since you know it all, lotto numbers please...
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Zburns
Novice
Feb 28, 2011, 4:58 PM
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Hey, original poster here. Anyway, during the process the battery died and one of the cells was no longer working so i bought a new one and in a hurry put in in backwards... anyway after the sparks and a second or two of white smoke coming from underneath the passengers side headers (around there) the car will no longer turn over or make a sound. I checked the battery and its putting out 12.65V so that's fine; SO i destroyed the starter right and possibly the alternator (can't check since my car won't start)? Would it be possible that the smoke came from the positive lead from the battery (melting)? If so where could i buy that. All fuses i the fuse box are fine (so the electronics are good)?
All in all i would appreciate any feedback, experience, etc.
Oh, and yah, I'm not always this much of a dumb***, for some reason it just decided to focus into one week! AHH I just need to pay people to do this stuff for me.
Good news :It's not new so i don't have to worry about any computers or electronics in the car
(This post was edited by Zburns on Feb 28, 2011, 5:01 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Feb 28, 2011, 5:09 PM
Post #10 of 23
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You just need to slow down and be more careful. You have likely burned out one or more of the fusible links which are located at the starter. There are small sections of special "melt-away" wires which are actually fuses. You need to pull on each one and the one that is broken or stretches is the burnt one. You need to replace the burnt section but do not use anything but fuse wire. You can buy it at the parts store. Make sure you use a crimp connector and squeeze it real tight.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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re-tired
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Feb 28, 2011, 10:04 PM
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Be sure to disconnect your ground cable at batt before repairing those links . They are HOT/12v all the time . Don't want any more sparks 
Post back with updates.
LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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Hammer Time
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Mar 1, 2011, 3:30 AM
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LOL...........yes true
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Zburns
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Apr 12, 2011, 5:50 PM
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Hey guys, sorry for the long wait but some things have come up that haven't allowed me to work on my car for a while but... I installed the new starter and put in a new positive lead. I wen tot check for the turn over and nothing (no turn over or anything). The battery is running at ~12.65v so its still not the battery. I was thinking it could be one of two things: the first is that the HEI ignition module or coil could be fried so I could just buy new parts or a new distributor +cap. The other is that maybe the alternator is bad and doesn't have enough juice to start the turn over process but i thought a car could still start off of just the battery. Anyway, what do you guys think? I am just planning on getting a new distributor or parts for it, haven't decided if i want to get a brand new one.
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Hammer Time
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Apr 12, 2011, 5:54 PM
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I already told you what to look for.
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techforfree
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Apr 13, 2011, 5:37 AM
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Heres the thing with the old chev small blocks,almost everytime you pull a dist on one of them the oil shaft usually turned when pulling it resulting in the dist teeth being off one tooth when you put it back in.not a real big deal because sometimes you had enough travel in the dist to get close on the timing but the dist.looks funny sitting in there all crooked..which i wouldn't like..to do the job right. put the engine on TDC then pull the dist cap and see if the pointer on the rotor points to the #1 cyl on the dist.bet its gonna be off a good inch..if it is pull the dist again and with a long screwdriver turn the oil pump shaft counter clockwise to get proper alignment..then drop in the dist.and MAKE SURE THE DIST IF ALL THE WAY DOWN on the intake manifold,this should get it running well enough to get it someplace to hook up a timing light to set the timing properly...hope this made sense..good luck there
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 13, 2011, 7:05 AM
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Sure - been a while but get to TDC before touching anything. Mark with white touch-up paint right where the pointer of rotor is on body of firewall and again like radiator support so you have a clear line. Close will run or should. MY 1975 was GM's year when all were HEI 74 and lower only a few, none in 1973.
Mark dist cap with #1 and the plug wire. Heck, use marked clothes pins but don't mess that up to make it even harder.
Engine should at least run. Watch the rotor when removing. It will turn and make note of that and start there again till you are back on the mark where it was. If no timing marks are to be found you can still get real close with a vacuum gauge so long as engine is healthy and put a "T" in actual manifold vacuum. Close to 18Hg it should run reasonably well again. Higher it's too advanced and lower too retarded. Note dist rotor rotation. with it turning dist retards times and vs verse. Other is to watch rocker arms with valve cover off to see how close to TDC you are in conjunction with a feeler for piston of harmless wood or something you get close.
1974 min RON octane should have been leaded 89 octane. 1975 was detuned to run on 87 octane unleaded when introduced. Then when close a real timing light to exact it - tighten dist down and make sure it doesn't knock under load. Vacuum advance could also be there for retarding timing to prevent knock at WOT and EGR would part open at part throttle which was for emissions and prevented knock also. One more and common - if now HEI the wires to the module used to rub as it moved inside. That was a reason for no spark.
BTW - small block Chevs didn't use a timing belt - a chain. Reverse polarity on battery and unknown now if HEI was rigged in make it all that much harder now. Gotta go hunting or get help now,
T
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Zburns
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Apr 24, 2011, 7:22 PM
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Hey, I was looking over my schematics, and when I went out to the car to take a second look, I noticed some strange slack in a wire... HammerTime, you'll love this :) I found I fusible link that I had missed (probably because I was PO'd). Anyway, I don't know what to call it so... From the battery you follow the positive lead -> This connects to the starter and on that same connection is another wire that travels to the rear of the block somewhere. I need to know what gauge this wire is and melting temp rating so I can get some fusible wire that is a smaller, crimp it then solder it. I was thinking it might be 12-14. Hopefully this will solve my problem. I figured out how to set the Distributor (which was confirmed by the post above) so I am confident that I can get this thing street worthy in no time.
I'll tell you what, with all that went on I really feel more confident in my knowledge about this car and how to work on it! I think I even learned patience :)
(This post was edited by Zburns on Apr 24, 2011, 7:27 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2011, 7:25 PM
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No, you cannot use regular wire. This is special "meltaway" wire that is actually a fuse. You need to buy a piece of fuse wire and section it in place. You can start a fire if you use regular wire.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Zburns
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Apr 24, 2011, 7:26 PM
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Sorry, I edited my post right after you replied
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2011, 7:32 PM
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Same answer. You still can't uses regular wire.
They should have replacement pieces at most parts stores.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Apr 24, 2011, 7:33 PM)
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Zburns
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Apr 24, 2011, 7:40 PM
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I know you can't use regular wire; fusible links for GM say 16 gauge (after some research)and i wanted to double check to know if anybody knew what size this wire might be so I can use the best size fusible link wire for the application (You know, have a few different sources rather than one). I thought the wire on the car was 12-14 gauge so i was planning on using the 16 gauge; I just like to double check every once in a while.
(This post was edited by Zburns on Apr 24, 2011, 7:57 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Apr 25, 2011, 4:11 AM
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Not sure why you want to go smaller. 12-14 would be fine.
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