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94 ford ranger xl turns but doesn't catch
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us7764
New User
Oct 25, 2009, 7:23 PM
Post #1 of 3
(2378 views)
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94 ford ranger xl turns but doesn't catch
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I am in MA truck is 3.0l v6 distributor equipped. 202,644 miles. I bought it with 202,644 mi. I turn the key the engine 'spins', but doesn't catch/fire-up. This is what I have done so far. Cleaned battery terminals and posts and retightened. took dist. appart to check the rotor tip I believe it's called, transfers power from coil to plugs. took very fine file and removed biuld-up from tips in dist. cap. Jumped it, didn't help. before when it didn't want to start i checked everything I could think of the removed eec relay, plugged it back in and it started right up. I got a bit of water in gas tank (don't ask I know it was stupid.) put two bottles dry gas into tank. before I did the dry gas I tried to start it no joy. I don't have AC relay to swap out with eec relay. fuel pump works, I think because when hand cranked engine air recirculator hose has strong odor of gas. when hand cranking there are two spots where the belt stuck and I had to push the wrench <- -> inorder to get belt to move. Then removed serpentine belt to figure out what was getting stuck. alternator spins fine steering pump spins fine (can hear it pumping) no AC so it has to be the main drive. distrubutor works took a plug out left it connected and tried to start truck it sparked on my windshield wiper arm, and turn cycle skips like a car when it goes over a rock. fuel pump shut-off switch is pressed down. Please help unemployed in catch 22 situation. no job, no car. no car, no job. please help me to get this truck started.
Sincerely,
US 7764
US 7764
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 26, 2009, 2:42 AM
Post #2 of 3
(2371 views)
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Re: 94 ford ranger xl turns but doesn't catch
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be test during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all other tests are passed. then perform a complete compression test and record the results. All cylinders should be over 120lbs in most cases and all be within 10% of each other.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran
/ Moderator
Oct 27, 2009, 4:18 PM
Post #3 of 3
(2359 views)
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Re: 94 ford ranger xl turns but doesn't catch
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US7764; How much water and how much fuel? If you are experienced enough to do so, (anytime one is messing with fuel delivery, it can be dangerous) disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rail and take a fuel sample. Pour it into a glass jar and allow it to sit a few minutes. If there is water in the fuel, it will seperate and go to the bottom of the jar. Fuel injection does not like water. The cranking over symptom you describe, sounds like a 'dead' cylinder. You should remove the spark plugs and examine them. If they are wet with fuel, you are going to need to dry them and the cylinders. Blowing compressed air into the cylinders will help. A compression test at this point might be a good idea. However, if the engine is severely flooded, you may have to do a wet test, also. This is done by applying a squirt or two of oil into the cylinder, then retest. Leaving the plugs out for a day or two will be better. If the plugs are wet, but in good condition, you could put them in the oven for a couple of hours. Just don't let your wife see you do it. I'm serious. BDTD! Thought she was gonna kill me. With all of that said, if you aren't comfortable with doing this, you can try 'clear flooding' the engine. This is done by holding the throttle to the floor while cranking the engine. If the engine starts running, back off of the throttle so as not to 'over-rev' the engine.
Loren
SW Washington
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