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93 2500 chev starts when cold not when warm
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modonnell
New User
Nov 8, 2008, 3:50 PM
Post #1 of 3
(2141 views)
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93 2500 chev starts when cold not when warm
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First timer.
I do most of the work on my vehicles. I have never submitted a question before. The vehicle in question; '93 2500 chev, 4x4, 350. I use this vehicle occasionally in the summer and fall to haul wood. Its main purpose is snowplow. It sat for a couple of months. It now starts runs very rough at idle, you cannot push RPMs up to fast, lacks power and eventually shuts off after about 15 min. It will not start after that. It cranks well. New coil and ignition module, I put the silicon heat disperser on the module. New fuel pump, gas tank, sending unit. Checked for spark from the spark plugs, getting spark. I recently put an antitheft key in the neg. cable. Is it possible the ground is affecting this. The vehicle worked fine right after I put it in but then I let it sit for a couple of months.
Any idea would be welcome. I checked the codes and nothing is stored.
MikeO.
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Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran
/ Moderator
Nov 8, 2008, 4:35 PM
Post #2 of 3
(2139 views)
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Re: 93 2500 chev starts when cold not when warm
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Since it runs when cold, but not hot, sounds like it could be over-fueling. A cold engine can "handle" the extra fuel, but warm engine can't, causing it to flood. You may want to pull a spark plug or two and see if they are black and sooty after running when warm. Also, see if you can smell fuel on the oil dipstick. A couple things come to mind; CTS defaulting to -41F (watching live data from a scanner can confirm, or an ohm check of the CTS) or an injector/fuel line leak under the plenum. Just a couple of things to look at. Both are very common faults.
Loren
SW Washington
(This post was edited by landdchamploren on Nov 8, 2008, 4:37 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 8, 2008, 5:36 PM
Post #3 of 3
(2137 views)
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Re: 93 2500 chev starts when cold not when warm
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Got one of these to check out so was already hunting myself for a 96 Suburban. Near thermostat CTS has yellow and a black wire and the connection can get wet and corrode there. If signal (ohms) is sending info that it's always cold it's going to run rich. Just today tested one on a working GM that was cold and it behaved without installing it as long as it was plugged in - cold only test and ohmed correctly.
Info below for your perusal on the subject....
___________________
The coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on temperature). Low coolant temperatures produce high resistance (100,000 ohms at -40°F/-40°C) while low temperatures causes low resistance (70 ohms at 266°F/130°C). The sensor is mounted in the coolant stream and the ECM supplies a 5 volt signal to the sensor through a resistor in the ECM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the ECM knows the engine coolant temperature.  Fig. 1: Coolant temperature sensor location
TESTING
See Figures 2, 3 and 4 - Remove the sensor from the vehicle.
- Immerse the tip of the sensor in container of water.
- Connect a digital ohmmeter to the two terminals of the sensor.
- Using a calibrated thermometer, compare the resistance of the sensor to the temperature of the water. Refer to the engine coolant sensor temperature vs. resistance illustration.
- Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as necessary.
- If the sensor does not meet specification, it must be replaced.
 Fig. 2: Submerge the end of the coolant temperature sensor in cold or hot water and check the resistance  Fig. 3: Coolant temperature sensor wiring diagram  Fig. 4: Coolant temperature sensor temperature vs. resistance values
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