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88 toyota engine problems
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jcoiler
New User
Jul 25, 2008, 10:31 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1577 views)
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88 toyota engine problems
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1988 toyota corolla 1.6 carb manual about 1000mi on 10-30 oil change
To start it was driven about 40 miles then was overheating. Replaced radiator cracked at top. Drained system and refilled with 50/50 mix. While at it replaced cap and rotor it had gotten soaked by coolant. Drove it about 200 miles no problem. Then drove it 20 miles overheated filled with water got another 10 mi towed home.
Replaced head gasket all bolts tourqed to specs. Followed instructions to set timing belt back on and distributor cap. Broke and replaced water outlet connection. Pulled and cleaned plugs. Hooked up all wiring and vac tubes. Set distributor at same twist location that it was pulled.
 Wont start ahhhh pulled plugs and bought compression tester this is cold #1 50 #2 90 #3 90 #4 90 I accidentally left the radiator cap off during the 1st test and had gyser coming from the radiator. When I did 2,3,4 there was something spraying from #1.
I need suggestions before I take it to toyota
Thanks,
Jason
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brbettge
User
Jul 26, 2008, 4:58 AM
Post #2 of 4
(1573 views)
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Re: 88 toyota engine problems
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Did you replace the thermostat? whenever air hits a used thermostat it seems they go bad. From your post I would say that if the thermostat was not replaced it did fine for awhile then failed which took out the head gasket. You replaced the head gasket....did you replace the thermostat at that time? if not, the cause of the origional problem is still there. Compression on this engine should be 140-180 on all cylinders. Did you use some type of gasket sealer on the head gasket when you replaced it? If so, that has caused problems....head gaskets should be installed CLEAN and DRY - free of any type of sealer. HG's are graphite and must be installed dry to do their job (move, expand and contract with engine heating conditions). Your geyser was caused by exhaust gases entering the cooling system due to a head gasket failure (this is why I asked about the gasket sealer). Your compression measurements also indicate head gasket failure (in this case) or possible burned valves. Did you inspect the valves when you had the head off? A pretty easy test is to purchase a test hose that screws into the spark plug hole. remove spark plugs and install tester into one cylinder that has been turned to "top dead center" (the piston is at the top of it's stroke and both valves are closed) attach an air supply to the end of the tester hose and apply pressure into the cylinder while holding the engine at TDC (top dead center). If air is coming out of the exhaust pipe you will find a burned exhaust valve on that cylinder; if air is coming out of the carburetor you have a burned intake valve(a pretty rare thing); and if there is air coming from another spark plug hole you have a head gasket blown between these two cylinders. All of the symptoms you describe point to head gasket failure due to contamination of the surfaces (of the head and/or block) or valves being burned. I have known many people who have used gasket sealer on head gaskets (when i first started in the business i tried it too) which causes the gasket to fail. Back in the days (1960's and before) when head gaskets were simply metal a sealer was sometimes required - today, it is a recipe for gasket failure.
One last thought...did you follow the sequence for rmoving as well as replacing the head bolts? failure to do so usually results in head warpage especially on this engine. The removal sequence for the bolts is simply the reverse of the tightening sequence. outside - in for removal and inside - out for tightening.
you stated that you replaced the distributor to the same "twist" location that it was pulled....was the engine position disturbed while the head was off?? if so, the disributor has been replaced in the wrong position. When this happens the easiest way to find the correct position for the distributor is- with the valve cover off - turn the engine until one cylinder's piston is all the way up and the rocker arms for that cylinder have released their pressure from the valves (the valves are closed) - (which brings up another possibility - were the valves adjusted when you did the head gasket? did you adjust them? if not they may be too tight and holding the valves open enough to lose compression.) anyway, once the cylinder has been placed at TDC; point the rotor at the location of the spark plug wire terminal inside the distributor cap for that cylinder then install the distributor so that when distributor is installed the rotor is still pointing at the spark plug wire terminal for the cylinder at TDC. Sounds a bit confusing but is really pretty simple. I've found that even "professional" mechanics tend to make timeing way too complicated.
I'm sure the above items will correct the problems you have with this engine.
good luck, and if you have further questions just ask! rick
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dave284
Enthusiast
Jul 26, 2008, 8:24 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1570 views)
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Re: 88 toyota engine problems
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If any motor has overheated and caused loss of compression and most certainly on a Toyota, the head should have been checked and resurfaced before replacing the head gasket. Tip...a compression tester was a good investment, and a radiator pressure tester would also aid in detecting problems such as this too. But it seems like this is going to be a do-over job.
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jcoiler
New User
Jul 26, 2008, 8:51 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1568 views)
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Re: 88 toyota engine problems
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Do over ok. I didn't use any sealant on the gasket and I followed the tightening procedure in my haynes book. I didn't check the valves or send the head out to be done. I'll get that done this time. At least I got some practice on removing the head once this time should be easier.
Thanks for the help
Jason
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