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2006 Mazda Tribute Overheating
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Marlowe
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Nov 26, 2013, 5:36 PM
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2006 Mazda Tribute Overheating
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First, thank you for letting me post on this forum. I'm a reasonably good shade tree mechanic, but any help would be appreciated! My sister has a 2006 Mazda Tribute 2.3L 4cyl. It has 168,000 miles. In the past two weeks it has begun to read hot on her temperature gauge. She is mainly driving it short distances, and (although I know this isn't the best thing to do), she pulls it over to allow it to cool down. Today, it peaked on the guage and she says the car began missing a bit. After she pulled over and allowed it to cool, it ran fine to where she works. She's asked me to look at it. According to her, even when overheating, the heater is blowing cold air. I did a preliminary look at the oil, and there was no apparent sign of a leaking head gasket (no froth, but the oil is very dark). The car does seem to use oil, though that may be because it's a very thin 5W-20. The hoses also don't seem too warm. I am suspecting a bad water pump, but I don't know anything about Mazda, having never owned one. I was hoping one of you might be kind enough to offer a suggestion. Thanks! Brian
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 26, 2013, 6:16 PM
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Re: 2006 Mazda Tribute Overheating
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Sounds like all the classical symptoms of a car that has been overheated and now has a blown head gasket. Continuing to drive is was more than just a bit more than "I know this isn't the best thing to do" ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Marlowe
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Nov 26, 2013, 7:03 PM
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It wouldn't surprise me. Their oil would NEVER be changed were it not for me! The oil consumption was before the overheating problem. It burned off or used (I never could find signs of a leak) about 1 quart at least every 500 miles. The overheating problem has just occurred. I first suspected the thermostat, but the heater blows cold as ice even when the Tribute is reading hot.
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Hammer Time
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Nov 26, 2013, 7:05 PM
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The heater blows cold because it's full of air and not coolant. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Marlowe
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Nov 26, 2013, 9:23 PM
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Re: 2006 Mazda Tribute Overheating
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Thanks! Dumb question for you guys, I'm sure, but if the water pump wasn't circulating coolant, would the heater core remain cold, or would heat- if the heater core had fluid- begin to transfer into the coolant in the core? Generally, for you with more experience, what symptoms does a non-functioning water pump typically exhibit? I understand perfectly what you're saying, though. If there's air in the system, there's no heat transfer into the core. I'll check the oil tomorrow for any sign of coolant contamination. I may have to see if I can find a pressure tester. I'm starting to wish I were an only child...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Nov 27, 2013, 12:13 AM
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OK - Water pumps can corrode such that circulation slows too slow and problems from that. Usually raising RPMs will get a weak one to do better for a while but seems you are not there to notice these problems along the way. Overheating = vapor in system. Vapor (air) doesn't transfer heat so say boiling away pumping or not everything will be hot, heater will not have heated liquid in core and blow cool/cold air. Note on that like physics class: You can put your hand in hot air for a few seconds but in the same temp of hot liquid get your skin burned off near instantly - got it? Many engines have trouble purging air or vapor out from inside the engine itself not just the recovery tank. With all things operational it works fine with the expansion and contraction of coolant but not when there's a failure or when system drained for any reason you need to know it's really full. Head gaskets take a huge hit and can fail any which way they seal. Other gasket as well all thru. It gets worse as part$ can crack, warp and nearby electrical or other things sustain damage which is why all suggestions are to shut down engines with problems like that. Oil can turn to sludge and varnish and kill an engine later after initial problem is fixed. No win situation many times. Test what you can for a head gasket failure. It won't be know even if so how extensive the fix will be till head sent out spiking costs if NG needing another. Seems you've been trying to be the nice guy here. Watch out with this one as I really think this will get expensive and need assorted extra help, T
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Hammer Time
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Nov 27, 2013, 3:29 AM
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Poor circulation is not your problem. Air in the system is. Now you have to determine if that was caused only by only a leak, or if combustion gasses are being pumped into the cooling system. The first step is to pressure test the cooling system and find the original leak and repair it and then you can run the car to see if it still has long term issues. There are tests that can be performed to look for combustion gasses in the coolant but about the only one that you can really rely on the results is using an exhaust analyzer to sniff for hydrocarbons at the filler cap. Most of the other tests end up inconclusive. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Marlowe
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Nov 27, 2013, 11:43 AM
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Thanks to you both and yes, I am the schmuck for my three sisters. I checked her engine out today and there was NO coolant in the reservoir. I honestly want to mess with this thing like I need a root canal, but I'm kind of stuck. I'll try to figure out what's up and post back in hopes it might help others. Thanks again and have a great holiday season.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Nov 27, 2013, 12:40 PM
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It stinks being the one who damns the head gasket and want as much info as you can get before taking it apart. I suspect this will be sent out and probably should to some one at some place that does this stuff a lot for a quicker fix done properly the first time. One other way I've done or observed to blame exhaust gasses getting into cooling system which is regulated and limited to the rating of the pressure cap either on radiator or the recovery tanks on more vehicles. The pressure builds up just from expansion of the coolant getting warmer and that pressure raises the point at which it will boil. Not to bore you too much once up to operating temp with pressure it can bounce around as fan(s) kick on, load then quickly cooler airflow abundant and it just handles it. Sitting still you can either put a pressure tester on where the pressure cap goes and watch it go up. It should go up right off the bat. Tester should have a pressure release method and if you safely do that and pressure quickly returns right in front of you THAT IS DAMNING OF GASSES BEING PUSHED INTO COOLING SYSTEM! Some you can just feel say an upper radiator hose when stone cold not running and feel the pressure build and rebuild up if released. DANGER WITH RELEASING PRESSURE AS A COOLING SYSTEM CAN BLAST STEAM AND BE VERY DANGEROUS WITH QUICK NAST BURNS OR WORSE! You are a good guy watching out for family. Got the T-Shirt when all were closer by on all that. Just brace for this to get expensive or perhaps cause changing out vehicles. Too early to know for sure but isn't sounding so good to me. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours too, Tom
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Marlowe
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Dec 4, 2013, 11:26 AM
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Fortunately due to the weather I was unable to work on the vehicle and she had to take it in to the dealer. Turned out to be the water pump. It apparently had some problem with the impeller causing no fluid flow, and the fluid was leaking out a weep hole. Thanks.
(This post was edited by Marlowe on Dec 4, 2013, 11:27 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Dec 4, 2013, 11:35 AM
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OK - so far good news and good find on their part. Now hope overheating hasn't already done unseen anything so do keep watching it, T
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