|
|
2002 Suzuki XL7 Dies after 2200-2500 RPM
|
|
|
| |
|
|
Skibum1976
New User
Feb 24, 2015, 7:47 PM
Post #1 of 3
(1619 views)
|
|
2002 Suzuki XL7 Dies after 2200-2500 RPM
|
Sign In
|
|
Hey first post on here. I got a 2002 Suzuki xl7 4x4 with 157,0xx miles on it. I started to give the suv a little TLC, in the form of new head gaskets, Valve cover gaskets, cleaned EGR, new battery, and passenger side O2 sensor before catalytic converter. Somewhere along the line I either made a mistake, broke something or something else broke, because after the gaskets and the EGR, the car started up fine and ran good but then after it was warmed up and I was driving, anytime I stepped on the accelerator and the engine rpms went up to 2200, it would kill until the rpms dropped below 2200 and it would kick back on with me doing nothing. then the thermostat went out with the O2 sensor, replaced both and it still is having the same problem. My guess is that I knocked some wires maybe loose. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all and other times it's very consistent. Ive looked and have no idea where to start. No engine codes.
|
|
| |
|
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 25, 2015, 5:50 AM
Post #2 of 3
(1593 views)
|
|
Re: 2002 Suzuki XL7 Dies after 2200-2500 RPM
|
Sign In
|
|
What was the reason for replacing all those gaskets, especially the head gaskets? There has to be codes or something in the data stream. Generic code reader isn't going to cut it on this vehicle. You need an enhanced scan tool that can get on the manufacture's side of the PCM. There might be manufacture codes stored. Other than that the only thing you can really do is recheck everything thing to did and make sure you didn't miss something or install something incorrectly.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
|
|
| |
|
|
Max_B00st
New User
Feb 28, 2015, 8:15 AM
Post #3 of 3
(1553 views)
|
|
Re: 2002 Suzuki XL7 Dies after 2200-2500 RPM
|
Sign In
|
|
I agree that it would be easier if you had a way to get to the OEM side of the PCM. Since you might not have the equipment for that, I'll recommend some shade-tree methods of at-least getting you pointed in a direction for diagnosis.
The first thing I would do is, listen for your fuel pump priming. Try to see if it sounds weak. Listen to the intake while you're revving the engine, listen for vacuum leaks. REALLY pay attention to how it sounds when it cuts out (Knocks, pings, solenoids if they are loud enough)
If you notice anything odd sounding, check it out.
Once you've done a thorough visual and audible inspection of the vehicle under the conditions it stalls at, its time to actually start testing components.
For this I recommend:
Basic OBDII scan tool (Or better if you have it).
Fuel pressure testing kit.
Compression testing kit.
Intake vacuum gauge kit.
Cylinder leak-down manifold kit. (You need a small air compressor).
NOID light test kit.
Start with your fuel. Throw your gauge and try to make the vehicle stall with it hooked up. If you can, watch the gauge to see if it's movement is stable and up to spec. If you notice that its all over the place or drops heavily under load. You can assume you have a fuel issue.
Test your vacuum. When I say this, you'll need your OBDII to check MAF and MAP sensor data, to ensure they are actually providing the computer with output. If you can safely say they are atleast functioning, use your vacuum gauge to test vacuum.
Your vacuum should be steady at around 16.5mcGH to 22mcGH. This is the sweet spot for vehicles that have proper and steady vacuum. If it falls below that, you likely have an exhaust obstruction or vacuum leak. if its erratic you probably have a gasket leak, weak or improperly installed valve springs / stem seals.
If you rev your engine and it slowly rises up, thats normal. If it randomly drops and comes back up at idle, its most likely a timing issue.
Test your compression, you should have no less than 100PSI on each cylinder (Some can run on lower compression). Measure all of your cylinders dry and with a squirt of oil. They should not differ by anymore than 20 - 25%.
Once you do that, do a cylinder leak down test if you have the means. I'm not going to explain that in depth. Check out a guy on youtube called "EricTheCarGuy" and find his Cylinder leakdown test video. He explains it in depth and very well.
Other things you can do are, pull the plug wires and perform a performance drop test. If you pull your wires one by one and you notice that one of your wires or more does not effect performance when removed, you might have a coil or distributor issue.
I like to pull sensor plugs off while the vehicle is running to see if they make a difference. If you find that you unplug something like a MAF or MAP sensor and the vehicle continues to run normally, you might want to head in that direction.
This is just a brief methodology of how I would do it. Theres a million things you could do.
I would just do this:
1. Recheck everything without disassembling the engine.
2. Run all tests that you can to the best of your ability.
3. Hope you find something.
4. Come back and let us know how it went so we can continue to guide you in another direction.
5. Either redo EVERYTHING you did again and make 100% you did it right, or take it to the dealer and let them deal with it.
I love Suzuki SUV's
Good luck with it!!!!
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2006 Toyoto Camry XLE Driver Side Electric Window Trouble
Tierod end change caused some kind of leak
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
