|
|
2000 Toyota RAV4 2.0 412,000miles-Erratic Idle
|
|
|
| |
|
RAV4
User
Feb 1, 2012, 9:13 AM
Post #1 of 2
(3783 views)
|
2000 Toyota RAV4 2.0 412,000miles-Erratic Idle
|
Sign In
|
|
Every morning I crank it up and let it sit at idle to warm up, usually no less than 5 minutes and no more than 10 or so minutes before heading to work. Ok, for about a month, I guess, in the morning-the first start up-rough idle as in missing, spitting sputtering. When left alone, as opposed to revving it up, it will smooth itself out. Over the last couple of weeks here's what it does, it runs good meaning it has spunk, no missing until about the 4th stop sign at which time as I'm slowing down to a crawl everythings good until I come to a complete stop then it starts spitting, sputtering, missing almost to stall out. I popp it in neutral, revv it up, all the while its idle is surging up to 2000 then down to next to nothing, as traffic allows, I kinda pump the gas pedal-not to the floor just several quick 1/4 way pumps-until I can get up speed and it will level out. Then I get on the interstate and it runs like a charm 70-80 mph until I exit off and as I slow down to a crawl it starts the behavior again. I noticed that if I shift it down into 2 manually (its automatic) and continue to shift it out myself, it does somewhat better. After sitting a while or all day until I get off work, it varies its behavior from at start up-no spitting & sputtering but running kinda at a high idle until it warms up; to doing the spitting & sputtering-leveling out-running fine all the way home; to running fine until I come to a stop after exiting off the interstate and starts that mess again. It's been doing this off & on over the last couple of weeks. Like yesterday, it behaved as described but then today at start up it spitted, sputtered, missed while sitting at idle, then leveled itself out and ran fine all the way to work. I ran a scan before I left for work this morning, here are the codes: P0300 - multiple cylinder random misfires; P0303 - cylinder 3 misfire; P0401 - EGR insufficient flow; P0420 - catalyst below threshold bank 1. Also, here is the freeze frame data: Freeze Frame data from code P0300: 1448rpm / 32.1 Load Value / 32kpa Map Sensor / 75 Coolant Temp / 66 Intake Air Temp / 0% short term fuel trim1 / 8.5% long term fuel trim1 / -100.6% (negative) short term fuel trim3 / -100.6%(negative) long term fuel trim3 / 0 speed / open fuel system1 / na fuel system2 Here's what we've tried so far: cleaning the throttle body, checking the plugs, changing air filter, adding oil, adding anti-freeze (if needed), checked the timing & I'm sure some other things that I just can't think of right now. Is it possible that the EGR valve is sticking? If so, can this valve be cleaned or something before having to purchase a new one? What about the coil packs, could there be a problem there? Anyway, its very frustrating trying to troubleshoot it ourselves and I don't really know where to take it just to get a diagnosis where they will tell me what it needs to fix it without them doing the repairs themselves. I did ask at this one shop about the scan-what the charge is just to get a diagnosis-and he said that their scan wouldn't tell much more than my scan-(which I thought the shop's scan would be more detailed than just my handheld Actron OBD-II) didn't make much sense to me but whatever. Any insight or guidance would be great. Thanks.
(This post was edited by RAV4 on Feb 1, 2012, 9:17 AM)
|
|
| |
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 1, 2012, 3:00 PM
Post #2 of 2
(3730 views)
|
Re: 2000 Toyota RAV4 2.0 412,000miles-Erratic Idle
|
Sign In
|
|
Anyway, its very frustrating trying to troubleshoot it ourselves and I don't really know where to take it just to get a diagnosis where they will tell me what it needs to fix it without them doing the repairs themselves. Legally a repair shop cannot perform a repair unless you authorize it. You pay a diagnostic charge to find out what the problem is and what it would take to fix it. Then the repair shop should give you an estimate for the repair including parts and labor. Then you either authorize the repair or take the vehicle. If you take the vehicle, you'll still have to pay for the diagnostic charge. If a shop is performing a repair without your consent, that is a no no. 412,000 mi is a whole lot of mileage on that engine (if it is the original engine). The computer says it picked up a misfire on #3, but you need to determine why. When the engine is running rough is when you need to figure out if you have a no spark, no injector pulse, no injector operation, or a valve related problem causing the misfire. Injector operation is pretty easy to find out, by listening to the injector with a mechanic's stethoscope or long screwdriver. Spark can be tested with an oscilloscope or spark tester. You could also swap your spark plug for #3 with another cylinder to see if the misfire moves. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
|
|
| |
| | |
|