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2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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davidwis77
Novice
Nov 25, 2012, 5:43 PM
Post #1 of 17
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2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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swapped out the eng, took my time, there is spark and fuel. But does not start.. Any suggestions?
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 25, 2012, 5:48 PM
Post #2 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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What did you swap the engine with?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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davidwis77
Novice
Nov 25, 2012, 5:50 PM
Post #3 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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the same size/cc vortec, a rebuilt one..
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 25, 2012, 5:52 PM
Post #4 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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What is the fuel pressure?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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davidwis77
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Nov 25, 2012, 5:58 PM
Post #5 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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Have not checked yet...
I have to point out, it may not be at end point of center, before i installed the dis. cap/rotor... Would the Eng. Still at least start?
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 25, 2012, 6:04 PM
Post #6 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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If the distributor isn't indexed correctly, the engine will not start. The engine won't start if the fuel pressure isn't at least 55 psi or more either.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Nov 25, 2012, 6:05 PM)
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davidwis77
Novice
Nov 25, 2012, 6:09 PM
Post #7 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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ok, 55 PSI. Thank you. The swap went fine, did the fuel filter as well. i tried starter fluid down the trottle body, still would even start.. Any other suggestions?
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davidwis77
Novice
Nov 25, 2012, 6:13 PM
Post #8 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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So if the block is not at top dead center and the timing is off with the Dist. Etc.
It will not start at then ?
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 25, 2012, 6:17 PM
Post #9 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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It should have done something if you used starting fluid.
Check your firing order and be sure the distributor is indexed correctly.
IMPORTANT: Rotate the number (1) cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. The engine front cover has 2 alignment tabs and the crankshaft balancer has 2 alignment marks (spaced 90 degrees apart) which are used for positioning number 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). With the piston on the compression stroke and at top dead center, the crankshaft balancer alignment mark (1) must align with the engine front cover tab (2) and the crankshaft balancer alignment mark (4) must align with the engine front cover tab (3).
1. Rotate the crankshaft balancer clockwise until the alignment marks on the crankshaft balancer are aligned with the tabs on the engine front cover and the number (1) piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke.
NOTE: The distributor driven gear and rotor may be installed in multiple positions. In order to avoid mistakes, mark the distributor on the following components in order to ensure the same mounting position upon reassembly:
- The distributor driven gear
- The distributor shaft
- The rotor holes
Installing the driven gear 180 degrees out of alignment, or locating the rotor in the wrong holes, will cause a no-start condition. Premature engine wear or damage may result.
2. Align white paint mark on the bottom stem of the distributor, and the pre-drilled indent hole in the bottom of the gear (3).
3. With the gear in this position, the rotor segment should be positioned as shown for a V6 engine (1) or V8 engine (2).
^ The alignment will not be exact.
^ If the driven gear is installed incorrectly, the dimple will be approximately 180 degrees opposite of the rotor segment when it is installed in the distributor.
4. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft to the drive tab of the distributor.
5. Guide the distributor into the engine.
Ensure that the spark plug towers are perpendicular to the centerline of the engine.
6. Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the pointer cast into the distributor base.
- This pointer may have a 6 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 6 cylinder engine or a 8 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 8 cylinder engine.
- If the rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and the camshaft may be off a tooth or more.
- If this is the case, repeat the procedure again in order to achieve proper alignment.
NOTE: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
7. Install the distributor mounting clamp bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
8. Install the distributor cap.
9. Install two NEW distributor cap screws.
Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2.4 Nm (21 lb in).
10. Install the electrical connector to the distributor.
11. Install the spark plug wires to the distributor cap.
12. Install the ignition coil wire.
The wire must not touch anything like the dip stick, rubbing will make a ground/short after time of use.
IMPORTANT: If the Malfunction Indicator lamp is turned on after installing the distributor, and a DTC P1345 is found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly. Repeat Installation Procedure 2 if Malfunction Indicator lamp is turned on after installing the distributor.
13. Check the Malfunction Indicator Lamp.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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davidwis77
Novice
Nov 25, 2012, 6:22 PM
Post #10 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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ok, many thanks!! I will do this tomorrow.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 25, 2012, 6:26 PM
Post #11 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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To figure out if number one is on compression, remove the #1 spark plug and disable the coil by unplugging it's electrical connector. Have someone crank the engine until you feel a large puff of air come out the spark plug hole. That will get you close to TDC on compression. Line the mark on the balancer then install your distributor as noted above.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Nov 25, 2012, 6:26 PM)
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davidwis77
Novice
Nov 25, 2012, 6:33 PM
Post #12 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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will do my friend!
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davidwis77
Novice
Nov 25, 2012, 8:07 PM
Post #14 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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right off of plug #1
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 26, 2012, 4:12 AM
Post #15 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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Something is not true here.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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davidwis77
Novice
Nov 26, 2012, 3:10 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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she just wont start... spark and fuel.. Good.
I'm checking for TDC tomorrow, go from there. Thinking it might be something to do with the Security feature? No gas to the injectors?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 26, 2012, 4:02 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Re: 2000 Blazer 4.3L Eng. swap
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Follow this to the "T" and then post the results.
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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