|
|
wramsey
New User
Aug 1, 2009, 2:14 PM
Post #1 of 10
(7265 views)
|
Would anyone have knowledge on what would cause an 87 Ford Ranger with a 2.9 EFI, 4x4, Automatic Trans. to act as if it was "flooding"?
|
|
| |
|
Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Aug 1, 2009, 4:41 PM
Post #2 of 10
(7241 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
There is a lot of things that could cause that. Is your check engine light on?
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 2, 2009, 1:19 PM
Post #3 of 10
(7235 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
A maybe?? Coolant Sensor - It tells it how much fuel injection should used - like the choke action of a carb. CEL would be late if this just happened to help isolate. Connection where it's plugged in can be the issue also of lots of things at the age, T
|
|
| |
|
wramsey
New User
Aug 3, 2009, 1:21 PM
Post #4 of 10
(7223 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
The engine light is not on. There are no codes when the OBD computer is connected.
|
|
| |
|
wramsey
New User
Aug 3, 2009, 1:35 PM
Post #5 of 10
(7218 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
Where is the coolant sensor located? It is worth a shot. It will not act this way everytime. However I did notice today that the engine sounds as if it is at a high idle when not in gear.
|
|
| |
|
Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Aug 3, 2009, 2:44 PM
Post #6 of 10
(7214 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
Well... It is very possible to have a bad coolant temp, & if it's stuck on the cold side it will cause a rich condition OR you could have a bad intake air temp sensor, bad o2 sensor, leaky injector, bad fuel pressure regulator, MAF sensor, etc...... There are a lot of things that can cause a rich conditions. A quick look at a data stream would eliminate a lot of those components, as would a fuel pressue test... Maybe a good thing to do before you start is find out how much plan B would cost..... A diag and then set a limit. If the diag is $100, then throw say maybe $60 worth of parts at it. If that doesn't solve the problem then you won't be out too much. But if you throw $200 worth of parts at & don't fix the problem now you are still looking at taking it in & if the part is a $60 sensor you missed that you could've done yourself, then the total cost of not guessing would've been $160 but with the attempt to avoid the diag it's now $360..... Don't get me wrong.....I'm not pushin ya to come see me...... I would just like to see you confirm the bad part so you don't throw a lot of your money away...... If you don't have a scanner, a few of the guys have posted some resistance charts for sensors and I sure they would be glad to post some for you if you need them, that's not my 1st or 2nd route to go BUT if the sensor is totally bad that way will pick it up..... This is a great site & these guys will help you through some tests to find & fix the problem & hopefully save you some $$$$$$$$$......& if it works...... I know Loren likes Coronas, can't say for Tom, HT, W2O, DJ or Jeff........ But if I guess right....I'll take a Starbucks.... Just off the top of my head...... Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail & see if there is raw gas in the vacuum hose......Those were good for rupturing the diaphram & sending fuel into the motor via the vacuum line...... Hope this helps some........
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 4, 2009, 12:13 AM
Post #7 of 10
(7207 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
Good stuff Sidom. Wramsey - the CTS can be checked without expense. Damn if the chart isn't handy but it's located high on the engine near thermostat - usually just two wires. Sometime just the connection! It's high enough up you don't have to drain much coolant to remove but know that in doing so you may break it. It's about ohms. When engine is cold it will read XYZ ohms and will be markedly different when warm - if it changes it's probably not the issue and move on to next idea - diagnostics vs parts when possible. When something is cheap enough I would say to try new is testing is a PITA but tossing parts isn't the best approach in most cases like Sidom said. If you don't have test equipment for whatever comes along don't be afraid to pay for a diagnostic for where to go. I can't tell you how much money it takes to have most (nobody has everything) tools and equipment to do certain things. Know that fixing a rich fueling condition real soon will help tons in saving other problems caused by that, T
|
|
| |
|
wramsey
New User
Aug 5, 2009, 6:37 AM
Post #8 of 10
(7195 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks to the both of you folks for trying to help me out. As weard as it may be the problem has not raised its ugly head for three days now. I have approached thre different "Ford" guys and their response was that a diagnostics machine does not show things as well on the older vehicles as they would in the newer vehicles. All of them want to charge me 65 and 70 bucks an hour to figure out the problem. Not sure what to do at this point.
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 5, 2009, 9:37 AM
Post #9 of 10
(7190 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
If this problem has ceased you may need to wait for it to return to diagnose. No harm in taking a careful look at vacuum hoses (some will go to small plastic than back to rubber elbow or hose) and electrical connections for now. If just touching something sets it off again tell us what and where and take it from there, T
|
|
| |
|
Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran
/ Moderator
Aug 5, 2009, 1:02 PM
Post #10 of 10
(7182 views)
|
Re: 1987 Ford Ranger
|
Sign In
|
|
wramsey; In addition, if you have a fast idle, you may have a vacuum leak which could cause the MAP sensor to get a false reading, causing overfueling. Just a thought. Loren SW Washington
|
|
| |
|