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1985 dodge diplomat carburetor help
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jmdodge
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Jul 23, 2013, 8:39 PM
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1985 dodge diplomat carburetor help
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hello, I recently bought a 1985 dodge diplomat for cheap 318 v8 2bbl 83,500 miles(odometer only goes to 99, so im assuming it has rolled over once) the car runs fairly well, but its running very "rich" and the gas fumes are unbearable without all windows down. after it has ran for about 10 mins the engine starts to sway or rock a little bit when idling but does not overheat or sound rough. it runs strong but it doesnt get any "juice" lol, with the pedal to the floor the engine is still fairly quiet and seems to not be able to reach peak, feels like its not getting good air flow or to much gas? the carb cover(I think its called?) has the housing to a "lean-burn" carb, but the wiring and electrical is gone, im unsure if its completely missing parts or if somebody had rebuilt the carb and didn't remove the lean-burn thing? im thinking the carb just needs to be tuned, and maybe the timing is off. but I don't have much of a clue of how to do either. also im aware that some of the "fumes" smell is coming from a small exhaust leak, and am going to be replacing that asap I have posted on a couple forums and have 0 replies so far, even a link to a diagram or to a how-to guide(timing & carb tuneing) would be awesome any help what so ever would be greatly appreciated! thanks [URL=http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/jumboSWISHER/media/GEDC4449_zps58a72cd7.jpg.html] [URL=http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/jumboSWISHER/media/GEDC4452_zpse3e9384d.jpg.html] [URL=http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/jumboSWISHER/media/GEDC4450_zps5a1c6156.jpg.html] [URL=http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/jumboSWISHER/media/GEDC4453_zpseda7b9a3.jpg.html]
(This post was edited by jmdodge on Jul 23, 2013, 10:07 PM)
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jmdodge
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Jul 23, 2013, 8:48 PM
Post #2 of 15
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Re: 1985 dodge diplomat carburetor help
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I haven't don't anything since I bought it, want to make sure where the air/fule mixture screws are befor I start turning anything and screw it up more
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 24, 2013, 4:54 AM
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With the engine idling and the air cleaner off look down into the carb. Make sure the choke opens as the engine warms up. Then look at the boosters and see if fuel is dripping out of them. The annular boosters are the round circle objects that stick out in the middle of the barrels. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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jmdodge
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Jul 24, 2013, 9:39 AM
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the choke opened almost instantly & did not see any drip from the boosters (watched for about 2 min) thanks for the reply!
(This post was edited by jmdodge on Jul 24, 2013, 10:07 AM)
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jmdodge
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Jul 24, 2013, 1:23 PM
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a friend of mine (who has "some" mechanical experience) just told me this morning that this engine is a 308ci V8 I have been trying to find the VIN or ID #s and am having horrible luck, lol every thing im finding online says there should be a # stamped near the dizzy on the block. no luck any idea where it might be able to be found? identified carb, Holley 6280 2 barrel
(This post was edited by jmdodge on Jul 24, 2013, 1:40 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Jul 24, 2013, 1:32 PM
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Don't take any advice from that fool. There is no such engine. That is a 318, the only size available for that car. I'm betting that's probably a Rochester or Carter carb. They used Holleys mainly on the slant 6's. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jul 24, 2013, 1:34 PM)
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jmdodge
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Jul 24, 2013, 1:59 PM
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awesome, thanks! that's what I thought & hoped for as far as size lol the carb ID# 4288565 & R40243 matches to the Holley 6280 2bbl on every search I can find, says dodge used it 85-89 on the 318 the linkage/lines dont seem to match diagrams I found though? im guessing a backyard mechanic re built it or im seriously misunderstanding these schematics.... im feeling it would save me a heap of trouble to replace the carb all together?
(This post was edited by jmdodge on Jul 24, 2013, 2:01 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Jul 24, 2013, 2:59 PM
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You may be right. I'm relying on a very old memory. They had a ton of problems with that lean burn system. It was one of the first computer controlled cars. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Jul 24, 2013, 3:36 PM
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Electronic Lean Turd System, oh ya... That one also has an electronic feedback carb. The module on the air cleaner used to control ignition timing and the mixture control solenoid on the carb based on inputs from the TPS, ECT, O2, crank signal, and etc. Since most the stuff is missing the carb has no feed back. Someone has already changed out the distributor and installed the ignition amplifier. Without the computer that carb is useless. Your better off removing the intake and carb and installing a 4 barrel carb (600 cfm vacuum secondary) and aluminium dual plane intake manifold. That's unless you really want to spend a bunch of money restoring it back to how it was and having a totally unreliable fuel and ignition system. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jul 24, 2013, 3:51 PM)
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jmdodge
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Jul 24, 2013, 6:11 PM
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really appreciate the replies & help! awesome, im on a budget so ill checkout whats in the local salvage yards, if nothing ill coin up & get a new intake and carb in the back of my head I knew the thing was junk, lol, appreciate the thoughts!
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jmdodge
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Jul 26, 2013, 12:12 AM
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is there anywhere to shop online any of you would recommend? also, for a quick fix in the meantime, would replaceing just the carb be doable or does all that electrical crap go through the intake too?
(This post was edited by jmdodge on Jul 26, 2013, 12:40 AM)
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Hammer Time
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Jul 26, 2013, 2:49 AM
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The problem is that you can't buy the carb that you would want without changing the manifold. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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jmdodge
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Jul 26, 2013, 6:08 PM
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after pulling it apart I deffinatly understand now thanks again!
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jmdodge
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Jul 28, 2013, 11:35 AM
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I will be cleaning the valve covers & places I can reach around on the block (trying to track down leaks) iv been told by a couple different ppl that WD40 or a small amount of gasoline on a rag will dramaticly help taking all the gunk off, would this be recommended? or should I stick to a product from the auto store? will be using only a rag & pressurized air, NO water
(This post was edited by jmdodge on Jul 28, 2013, 11:36 AM)
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Hammer Time
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Jul 28, 2013, 12:03 PM
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It will be easier to just buy a couple cans of spray brake cleaner. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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