Main IndexAuto Repair Home Search Posts SEARCH
POSTS
Who's Online WHO'S
ONLINE
Log in LOG
IN









Search Auto Parts

1984 Chevy S10 350 - no start, no dash, good battery and headlights work


  Email This Post



nebuddy
New User

Feb 2, 2013, 7:41 PM

Post #1 of 7 (7492 views)
1984 Chevy S10 350 - no start, no dash, good battery and headlights work Sign In

History: I was plowing today (Michigan) and thought I smelled something like rubber. Figured it was probably from my tires. I had the defroster blowing and wipers on.

Problem: The defrost blower and wipers began working extreme overdrive - higher than any "normal" high speed I have ever experienced with any vehicle. I turned off the blower and the wipers. Tried the wipers to check and was still flying back and forth across windshield. Also, the truck did not seem to be running smooth, at this time, I cannot exactly remember the specifics. It was still running, but it was not running right. My reaction was to I turn off the truck and it has not started since.

Things tried/verified: Battery is 100%, headlights work, interior lights work, NO dash lights, NO crank when trying to start engine.
Jumped battery to starter and starter engaged and flywheel was rotating. (BTW, I am a female so I may not call things "exactly" correct). The engine did not start. I was told that the starter "moved", whatever that means and that there is a fuse right in that vicinity that is not needed and should be removed and wired direct. The distributor felt pretty warm.

Also, truck was running rough last night, missing, and backfiring at times. Thought it was maybe bad gas or water. About half way through the tank, truck began running fine - great actually. Filled up today, no problem until the above happened.

This maybe important information from a past occurrence. The wire harness from the alternator that runs toward the of the engine was unknowingly allowed to touch the engine and the harness and wires are melted. When it was noticed, several months ago, the harness was secured away from the engine to protect from further occurrence.

Today, right after the wiper and blower situation, I felt the harness that I was talking about. It was not hot and appeared to be in the same condition it was earlier. I did find that the started wire had come off and I had help reattaching it at that time.

I understand that started needs to be tightened. I can also somewhat agree about bypassing the fuse associated with it. I am not sure that this is entirely the problem. It seems to me that somehow there was a major surge of power allowed to run rampant and cause the wipers/blower to go into overdrive.

The alternator is newer that this engine by the looks of it - it is not more than a couple years old. Could the voltage regulator have given up? But would that cause a rubber smell? Should I be looking into the ignition relays/switches? I really have not idea where to go from here.

Any direction would be greatly appreciated. I need to get back out there plowing. Also, mileage is unknown as the odometer is not connected.

Thanks in advance for whatever you may have to offer.


(This post was edited by nebuddy on Feb 2, 2013, 8:44 PM)


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Feb 2, 2013, 8:42 PM

Post #2 of 7 (7442 views)
Re: 1984 Chevy S10 350 - no start, no dash, good battery and headlights work Sign In

If the wipers and blower went super speed, that means the electrical system voltage went way up because the alternator regulator stopped regulating the voltage.

You might want to start by checking fuses and fusible links. Unplug the alternator and have it tested.

Is this mongrel fuel injected or carbed?





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


nebuddy
New User

Feb 2, 2013, 8:46 PM

Post #3 of 7 (7435 views)
Re: 1984 Chevy S10 350 - no start, no dash, good battery and headlights work Sign In

Sorry to have to ask, but what is the difference between fuses and fusible links?

Will check all fuses. Remove alternator and have it tested. I believe the voltage regulator is inside it right? Also, is it affordable to replace the harness? I don't think it would be easy to fully run new wires, but I could eliminate the "possibility" that the issue is in the harness that got heated at least until I am passed the heated section. What are your thoughts? It wasn't hot or didn't look any different than before, and I am not sure that this could have anything to do with high voltage coming through.

It is a carb.


(This post was edited by nebuddy on Feb 2, 2013, 8:51 PM)


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Feb 2, 2013, 9:52 PM

Post #4 of 7 (7421 views)
Re: 1984 Chevy S10 350 - no start, no dash, good battery and headlights work Sign In

Fusible links are basically wires that have a smaller gauge that the actual wiring in the circuit they are protecting. When the current gets too high the fusible link wiring burns up. They put a special coating on the links for fire protection.

Fuse is basically the same principle, but is usually found in the fuse block where fusible links are installed in wiring. Usually fusible links on GMs come off the starter solenoid battery cable lug. If the wiring is burnt up or damaged it needs to be replaced and properly routed, so chaffing and grounding doesn't occur.

It is possible that the high voltage surge from the alternator could have taken out the regulator in the instrument cluster and/or killed the ignition module in the distributor since it is solid state.

Fix the obvious first and then go from there.

Fusible link



Typical glass fuse



Blade fuse:






Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


nebuddy
New User

Feb 4, 2013, 9:17 PM

Post #5 of 7 (7376 views)
Re: 1984 Chevy S10 350 - no start, no dash, good battery and headlights work Sign In

UPDATE: Ultimately the problem was in the wiring at the starter. One of the wires had separated at an old connection point. There were also 2) 2 wire fusible links that were within the wiring harness. Both of the two wire sets were fused and reduced into one single wire - resulting in 2 ring connectors. It was one of those that had come apart. All previous melted area were eliminated and the fusible link connectors were by passed. Cut out the melted areas, twisted the two wires together, used a wire connector, and reduced to a smaller gauge wire with a ring to connect this to the starter. (Did this twice since there were two sets of this).


Drove truck home and plowed drive......

One minor problem to look at tomorrow, no brake lights. Tail lights - yes. Double bright on passenger side. But, enough for tonight. Tomorrow is a new day!

Thanks for the support and direction.

(yes, removed alternator and had it tested - good)


(This post was edited by nebuddy on Feb 4, 2013, 9:18 PM)


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Feb 5, 2013, 5:56 AM

Post #6 of 7 (7361 views)
Re: 1984 Chevy S10 350 - no start, no dash, good battery and headlights work Sign In

Glad to read that you found your problem. The only thing that you should be concerned with is the elimination of the fusible links. You need to have fusible links in those circuit as they were when the truck was new. The fusible links have to be the same length and gauge as the old ones. If you don't have links in those circuits and you end up with a short, it will burn the truck to the ground.

If you think I am kidding, we had a customer call yesterday to tell us his old F100 had caught fire from an electrical problem which totaled the vehicle. My boss's son in law's Honda civic caught fire in front of their house and burnt to the ground because he was too cheap to buy an ignition switch and bypassed it with a piece of wire and toggle switch. The fire was so intense it melted the aluminium intake and cylinder head. The entire car was shoveled off the driveway, literally. Thank goodness it didn't catch the house on fire or was in the garage.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Feb 5, 2013, 5:58 AM)


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Feb 5, 2013, 6:01 AM

Post #7 of 7 (7352 views)
Re: 1984 Chevy S10 350 - no start, no dash, good battery and headlights work Sign In

You don't bypass fuses!!!!!!! That's insane.

You also need to put it back the way it was. They are on 2 separate circuits for a good reason.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.







  Email This Post
 
 


Feed Button




Search for (options) Privacy Sitemap