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1970 CHEVY QUITS Sign up here! Search this forum this category all forums for All words Any words Whole Phrase (search options) Auto Repair Home>> Automotive Repair>> Engine Troubleshooting tugboat New User Dec 12, 2014, 11:54 AM Post #1 of 3 (1245 views) 1970 CHEVY QUITS Sign In Good day. About six months ago I bought a 1955 Ford truck that a previous owner had installed a 1970 chevy 350 motor. Truck ran great for a while. Then out of nowhere cuts off while driving. Turn the key all the way off then it will restart, then cut off again. Will not start until key is turned completely to the off position before trying to restart. I changed the distributor cap. The points, the condenser, the coil, to no avail. When I would change the coil or condenser problem would stop for a couple of hours but then return. The ignition switch seems good. Has a ballast and coil is one made for an external ballast. Could the starter silinode do this? Going crazy over this one. Also has a mechanical fuel pump. When I disconnected and held fuel line in a jar and cranked, fuel came out ok and didn't look bad. Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Dec 12, 2014, 12:45 PM Post #2 of 3 (1233 views) Re: 1970 CHEVY QUITS Sign In ? At the moment you don't seem very sure if it cuts out from spark or fuel problems and need to know that and is easy enough on a 70 Chevy anything if all wired for a 12v, neg ground ignition system. Fuel you would prime up if that could cut out. Carb? If it always reacted and worked when primed WHEN down only there's something wrong with "fuel delivery" not just the pump working but also at carb so say just what it has for that. It could just fool you and not let fuel thru a needle valve but would prime up. Ancient days some of those for many years and makes you had to tap on where fuel line went into carbs if a needle valve stuck which was only to buy time to fix it but knew it was dry and lacking fuel. Ignition? Ballast is supposed to deliver lowered voltage while running and full battery voltage while cranking is the idea. Blown ones more common to Mopars to me would crank fine, no spark and let go of key quick while engine still turning and hope it started then go right to store and get a new ballast resistor. Some got quite hot and would be a surprise so matters where you placed it for this. I don't think a 1955 Ford was using a ballast which was for 12v vehicles NOT 6v if it was? IDK on that or if either were made for that year? Spark or fuel issue friend. Check for both by watching and or testing for what is missing. If it shows both are good and not starting we take that from there, T Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Dec 12, 2014, 12:48 PM Post #3 of 3 (1230 views) Re: 1970 CHEVY QUITS Sign In Sorry for 2nd post rather than an edit but check old points always when even looking in there. If you see transfer from one point to the other some like a spike and hole equally that generally means condenser isn't well matched for the system. Most of that is about durability not intermittent. Works at all or doesn't fire at all ever with those type issues, Tom   Automotive Repair     Auto Body Repair and Refinishing     Heating or AC Issues     Electrical and Wiring     Brake Systems     Car Stereo Repair Advice     General Discussions     Car Making Funny Noises     Engine Fault Codes     Engine Troubles     Exhaust Systems     Steering and Suspension     Transmission Troubles     Tricks of the Trade Automotive World     General Discussions     Antique Car Talk     Car Shows and Events     The Bargin Bin     Motor Vehicle Inspection     Car Care Tips     Traffic Tickets     Gasoline, Motor Oils, Concept Cars and Engines     Auto Insurance, Financing, Leases, Warranties Truck Repair     General Discussions     Truck Engine Repair     Truck Suspension Repair Motorcycle Repair     General Discussions     Motorcycle Engine Repair CarJunky     Open Posting     Board FAQ's     New Board Suggestions

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