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P0133 hyundai elantra


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aipjian
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Mar 16, 2012, 12:55 PM

Post #1 of 24 (8669 views)
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Check engine light on went into emissions and failed (forgot code but needed new 02 sensor) got 02 new 02 sensor. Mechanic cleared code but came back on and now I have code P0133 and check engine light is on.

Failed emission again - multiple not ready.

I pulled the computer fuse and kept it out for about 30 minutes & than put it back in place. Check engine light has not come back on and it's been a week.

Will I pass emission now?


Discretesignals
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Mar 16, 2012, 3:02 PM

Post #2 of 24 (8630 views)
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Quote
Will I pass emission now?


I don't know...lets ask the Magic 8 Ball







Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


Hammer Time
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Mar 16, 2012, 3:14 PM

Post #3 of 24 (8622 views)
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Will I pass emission now?


NO.............

Not only have you reset all the monitors so they won't be ready but you may or may not have fixed the original problem.




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Discretesignals
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Mar 16, 2012, 4:10 PM

Post #4 of 24 (8608 views)
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If you have been driving it around for a week since clearing the codes, most if not all of the monitors should be ready. Every time you clear codes you reset monitors and the OBD2 software has to go through a drive cycle till the software can run tests on the systems.

There is no way for us to know if your going to pass emissions because we can't hook up our scan tools or 5 gas analyzers through the computer screen to test your car.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Mar 16, 2012, 4:11 PM)


aipjian
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Mar 16, 2012, 5:26 PM

Post #5 of 24 (8577 views)
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If someone were able to tell me what is wrong with it, I would get it fixed, but no one has been able to tell me what's wrong.

So I guess, what I'm asking is... is it possible that by removing the fuse and rebooting the computer, I fixed the problem.


Hammer Time
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Mar 16, 2012, 5:45 PM

Post #6 of 24 (8569 views)
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So I guess, what I'm asking is... is it possible that by removing the fuse and rebooting the computer, I fixed the problem.




Absolutely not. You just erased all the useful diagnostic information that the computer was programmed to find for you.

These computers don't "boot up". You merely erased the temporary memory.




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 16, 2012, 5:46 PM)


nickwarner
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Mar 16, 2012, 5:55 PM

Post #7 of 24 (8563 views)
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We could possible be pointing you in the right direction if you got a code number for us instead of erasing your adaptives. How did you know the O2 sensor needed to be replaced? Did you test it or did some saleman at an Autozone scan your codes and tell you what you needed to buy from him?


aipjian
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Mar 16, 2012, 6:35 PM

Post #8 of 24 (8548 views)
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First code was P0132 - put in new 02 sensor, Mechanic cleared code - light came back on with in 24 hrs... this time P0133.

Swapped out with another 02 sensor, Mechanic cleared code. same issue... 24 hrs later P0133.

Took out the fuse and it has been a week of no check engine light.

Is there a difference between him clearing code and me removing fuse?


Discretesignals
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Mar 16, 2012, 6:38 PM

Post #9 of 24 (8547 views)
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Year and engine size?





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


aipjian
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Mar 16, 2012, 6:43 PM

Post #10 of 24 (8542 views)
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2003 Elantra / DOCH 16V


Discretesignals
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Mar 16, 2012, 7:08 PM

Post #11 of 24 (8529 views)
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It's possible that when you disconnected the battery you solved a ground problem. There may have been excessive resistance in the connection at the battery. One of the steps in the trouble chart for the P0133 is to check for excessive resistance in the ground circuit at the battery. You may want to clean your battery terminals really good to make sure the problem doesn't reoccur from that.

It may be a good idea to hook up a memory maintainer, which is nothing more than another battery connected to the electrical system, to keep the memory alive in the PCM if you go to remove your terminals to clean them. That way you don't have to go through the chore of doing the drive cycle to ready all the monitors again.

Once you know the terminals are clean and tight. Find someone with a scanner that can show you the system status of the monitors. If all the monitors show ready, then use the scanner to check for pending trouble codes. Pending trouble codes won't turn on the check engine light, but can later if the test that failed that signals the code fails again.

If it all checks out good, then its possible you end up passing your emissions test.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Mar 16, 2012, 7:10 PM)


aipjian
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Mar 16, 2012, 7:22 PM

Post #12 of 24 (8517 views)
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I forgot to mentions, the same day I removed the fuse, I also cleaned to battery acid from the termanials.

What type of scanner do I need to see the systems are ready, is that something I can get done at Auto Zone? I know very little about this stuff...


Discretesignals
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Mar 16, 2012, 7:38 PM

Post #13 of 24 (8510 views)
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I'm not sure if Autozone sells a scanner that intrusive, but you could check if your interested. It's not a code reader, but an actual scanner that can read live data, retrieve current and pending codes, clear codes, look at readiness monitors status, etc.

For example this actron scanner can view monitor status. If they show OK, COMPLETE or NA (not available) then your good to go. If you have any that show INC (incomplete) that means the drive cycle for the monitor hasn't been performed or there is a problem, which usually sets a pending or current code, keeping the incomplete monitor from running. Incomplete monitors fail your emissions test right on the spot.

Once a monitor is ready that means the criteria has been met, so the OBD2 software can test the system of that monitor. The software may conduct numerous non continuous tests depending on the system. All the test results are stored in mode$06, but that is something you really don't need to be concerned about unless you plan on learning Hex codes and the nuts and bolts of OBD2.







Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Mar 16, 2012, 7:48 PM)


comnavguy
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Mar 18, 2012, 4:37 AM

Post #14 of 24 (8464 views)
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If you google drive cycle for your car, you'll get an idea of what you need to do to get all your I/M monitors "ready". On some vehicles, you can have one or two "not ready" flags and the inspection will proceed. Best though to get someone with a scanner to tell you if all the I/Ms are ready.


aipjian
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Mar 18, 2012, 10:53 AM

Post #15 of 24 (8449 views)
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I went to Auto Zones today and they could not find any codes, they also said they found five "ready's"

How many ready's do I need?


aipjian
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Mar 19, 2012, 3:41 PM

Post #16 of 24 (8418 views)
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It's been a week and I still have 2 "not ready" Evaporative control system and oxygen senson.

Any Ideas, I have to weeks left to pass emssions.


Hammer Time
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Mar 19, 2012, 4:13 PM

Post #17 of 24 (8412 views)
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Drive Schedule Notes:

  1. Coolant needs to be within 0 to 40 C (0 to 104 F) at start.
  2. Fuel level must be above 15% .
  3. When decelerating from 50-55mph there needs to be at least 5 seconds of fuel cut-off; its best to close throttle as soon as possible for 5 seconds to assure decel fuel cutoff occurs.
  4. Try to maintain constant throttle as much as possible during the steady state speed portions of the drive cycle.

Cautions :

  1. This schedule is best driven on a dyno if available, otherwise find the best road with least traffic
  2. Obey speed limits and drive safely.
  3. If you lose the schedule due to traffic, attempt to get back to it when conditions are safe to do so.
  4. Keep your eye on the road and avoid looking at the schedule constantly; its best to have a passenger describe the schedule to you while driving.





~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Discretesignals
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Mar 19, 2012, 8:55 PM

Post #18 of 24 (8394 views)
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Which oxygen sensor monitor? There are two of them. One is for testing the O2 sensor heater and the other tests the performance of the O2 switch signal. EVAP monitor is the most difficult one to complete.

Looks like someone is going to have to use an enhanced scanner to look at mode $06 test results to see what is hanging up the O2 monitor which definitely should had run by now.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Mar 19, 2012, 8:55 PM)


aipjian
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Mar 20, 2012, 10:04 AM

Post #19 of 24 (8367 views)
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It's not the heated sensor, it's the other one. Could it be that I need to tighten it? I only had a hand socket tool at the time, but I can use my breaker bar if needed.

Thank you,
Allen


Discretesignals
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Mar 20, 2012, 8:11 PM

Post #20 of 24 (8341 views)
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O2 sensors don't need to be that tight. ...around 25 ft lbs is enough.

If that monitor doesn't ready, your going to have to get it checked out. What is odd is that the catalyst monitor passed. Usually the catalyst monitor won't run unless the O2 sensor monitor has passed.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Mar 20, 2012, 8:14 PM)


aipjian
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Mar 21, 2012, 6:19 PM

Post #21 of 24 (8318 views)
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6 / 7 sensors ready!!!! I will go the test tomorrow, I can have 1 not ready in IL.

Is it possible that any of them can go back to not ready???Smile


Discretesignals
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Mar 21, 2012, 6:46 PM

Post #22 of 24 (8313 views)
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As long as you don't do a clear codes function with a scan tool or disconnect the battery, the monitors won't reset. Good luck with your testing. Smile





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


aipjian
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Mar 22, 2012, 4:03 PM

Post #23 of 24 (8276 views)
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I passed, with 8 days to spare. Thank you all for your help!


Tom Greenleaf
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Mar 22, 2012, 5:01 PM

Post #24 of 24 (8269 views)
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I'm sure I speak for all regulars here no doubt. Thanks for sharing a success story and hope we as a site of individuals were of some help,

Tom Greenleaf

(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Mar 22, 2012, 5:41 PM)




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