|
| | |
|
|
brandonmc
New User
May 7, 2007, 8:32 AM
Post #1 of 5
(1807 views)
|
Long story short...
After having a van 84 G20 Van towed, I was getting absolutely nothing when I turned the key. I had it narrowed down to wiring or ignition switch and come to find out that right off the started was a "burnt" wire leading to the ignition. (hence, the tow had nothing to do with it) So I got it started! But heres the deal...
I made a jumper wire with alligator clips for testing. After it started, it took all of 10 - 15 seconds for the plastic cover to my wire to go up in smoke. It's a large enough piece of ground wire with a not so thick plastic coat.
So my concern is this... according to the schematics, this is a fusible link.
a) Would this line be running up to 30 amp? ( like other fuses in the circuit indicate ).
b) Would replacing this link with a solid wire jeopardize other circuits?
c) If the current was enough to melt plastic that fast, wouldn't that heat being generated melt any solder job I do to it?
That's pretty much it right now. No point in fixing the wiring if I catch the whole thing on fire - Know what I mean? Should I go ahead and hard wire it???
Thanks
Brandon
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 7, 2007, 10:04 AM
Post #2 of 5
(1804 views)
|
Don't go over the amps for a circuit. The color of the fusible link should indicate its rating or there may be visable markings on the wire. If you want you could use an in line fuse of the correct amps which would be a lot easier to replace if it just blew on you and then have to hunt down why.
A strange to me but may be common with about that exact van was the connections between the rubber like block with a center hold down bolt or nut around brake booster under hood to firewall to fuse box inside had poor connections and made a whole variety of problems up to and including no electrical anything would work?? Cleaned it up and made the spade type connectors grab better and problem was solved for good. A place to look if nothing else shows itself.
Again - don't over fuse it as it might and probably will burn up something else that could be real hard to get at and fix,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
brandonmc
New User
May 7, 2007, 9:40 PM
Post #3 of 5
(1800 views)
|
Yes, I'm gonna go with the inline fuse test - but I need a few ideas on what kind of amps should be running from the starter to the ignition switch. After it goes through the ignitions, it runs straight to a 30 amp circuit breaker (power door locks), a 10a (radio), a 25a (wipers), 20a (stop/haz) fuse. All these still work,
Also, why would it get hot enough to burn while running, but not when it is just turned to acc???
(If you can't tell yet, I know a lot about electricity and wiring, but very little about engines)
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 8, 2007, 5:05 AM
Post #4 of 5
(1797 views)
|
Good question. It burns on ign only?? The items empowered by ign would be of course the ign and I think a lead to the alternator. All other items get power on assessorie position. You shouldn't have an electric fuel pump in 1984 but that would be powered by ign too. If not sure look for the pump on the passenger's side of the block with fuel lines to it and to a carb not just a throttle body. Not sure what year they make the switch but it was close to there.
Back to the link. The wire color should tell you it's amperage. Get the inline fuse that uses the spade type fuses that the van uses as they are better to replace than the twist and pull in-line glass fused type and more dependable.
May have to just do that job first and see if it keeps blowing fuses. The trick then would be to pull out all unnecessory fuses and run the engine and if it stayed going without blowing a fuse put the others back in one at a time and the one that causes a problem at least gets us to the circuit that's involved to chase down,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
DanD
Veteran
/ Moderator
May 8, 2007, 5:45 AM
Post #5 of 5
(1795 views)
|
If your jumper wire only burnt its insulation after the van was running; look at things that come on line with it running as compared to accessory. I would be suspicious of the charging system (over charging)?
You have to think why did the original fuse link burn out?
It could have been a fluke and not ever happen again but it’s real important to replace a link with the same diameter and length of the original link. The fusible link should be 4 gauge sizes smaller then the wire its protecting. The length is also important, the longer the wire the higher resistance to current flow. So your jumper wire may have burnt because it was to long?
You may get away with installing an in-line fuse but it would have to be of a too high an amperage rating not to burn out; when the initial load of the system comes on line. A fuse link will take a short burst of high (40 or 50 plus amps) current flow where a fuse will not; putting a 50 amp fuse in too handle this initial load defeats the purpose of fusing the system.
I know I haven’t told you what’s wrong with the van but just some precautions not to burn the whole thing down.
If this is a short to ground or an alternator over charging it’ll be a process of elimination too find out who’s doing what too who? Replace the link, disconnect something and try running the van. If the link burns replace it again and try something else
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2006 Toyoto Camry XLE Driver Side Electric Window Trouble
Tierod end change caused some kind of leak
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
