I have a 1993 Camaro Z28, engine 5.7 LT-1, with 95k miles. The right front turn signal bulb went out and was replaced. I noticed that the right turn signal light was still in the 'on' position after the replaced bulb. I checked the rear tail light and found the turn signal light on but not blinking and the brake light appeared to be out. All fuses were intact. I pulled the right rear assembly and disengaged the bulb sockets. I checked all bulbs and they were all intact. No broken filaments noted. The socket assemblies, however, were quite corroded-looking. Both the brake light and reverse light sockets were full of a thick, sticky yellow gunk. I am assuming this is old bulb grease? I spent a lot of time removing the sticky substance and cleaning all of the metal contacts. There does not appear to be any other damage to the sockets and the wiring appeared to be intact (no breaks, fraying or exposed wires noted in the area of the socket). The brake light will still not light. I put in a new bulb w/new bulb grease (a thin layer around the sides and across the bottom) in the brake light socket. Still no luck. I am stumped at this point.

Since I am not a mechanic, I am not sure how to check the entire length of the wiring or where the wiring ties in at the front of the vehicle. I would really appreciate any help!
Thank you for your time-
Stacey

brnidmedic; The turn and brake lamps share the same filament of the bulb, assuming that you don't have amber turn signals in the rear. I can't remember, on the '93. Rare, but have run across filaments that will break and lie across the other filament, causing the problem. You can, very carefully, check for voltage at the socket. It's not uncommon for the sockets to be worn, defective, especially with the corrosion you noted. The sockets are available through most parts stores.
Loren
SW Washington

Just some notes on the general subject:

*The yellowish grease is OE and normal. Alone doesn't hurt anything but there to prevent corrosion and does get hard as old gum.

* It matters if the rear directional is amber - tell us as it might be depending on where vehicle was originally sold to!

* If amber and dual function bulbs intended for both dimmer running lights and the brighter directionals, brake and hazard function they can be confused with single filament bulbs that can fit and crosses up the connections - especially with the round "push and turn" type.

** Any outside chance this was ever wired for a trailer? Man do those taps for even a temp use trailer cause issues later!

Handy to have a regular 12v test light for checking this stuff out,

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston
http://acsource.net/acforum/index.php

The brake light and turn signal light are independent of each other and both are clear in color. The bulbs I purchased are the recommended bulb for that specific socket per Chevrolet. To my knowledge, this car has not been wired for a trailer and there does not appear to be any evidence that a hitch setup was ever in place. I have an electrical tester (DC voltage, AC voltage, DC current, OHM, battery test - 1.5v or 9v). I was able to get a reading of 2.5 OHM in the brake light socket but was not able to ever get the socket to register and voltage of any kind.
Does this mean the socket is bad or is there a bad ground? I am not sure how to go about finding the ground problem either. I have not had to work on the electrical system before.

Thank you for your time and knowledge!
Stacey

Guessing for the moment. Rather than suspect the length all the way from the front testing for power with a scratch awl type tester targeted at the known power is my choice. Of course you need to test that you tester is grounded by having available known 12v nearby to test it. You can use another light the works or run jumper cables all the way back from the battery and use those.

With that try clipping the test light's alligator clip to power and then it will light when you touch what should be ground.

You may find that adding a jumper wire of ground to what should be ground solves it. There are places well hidden sometimes that use body metal for ground instead of a wire all the way.

Try that and test bulb sockets from back as well if they don't behave from inside where bulb goes. Sometimes one light seeks grounding thru lighting another which can make a dim non blinking light on dash - and some hair loss to find exactly where the flaw is

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston
http://acsource.net/acforum/index.php

 
Loren
SW Washington

(This post was edited by Loren Champlain Sr on Mar 29, 2009, 10:38 PM)

                  The 'tab' at the top of the picture is the ground. (black wire)

• The brown wire is the common tail lamp.
• The picture shows a white wire. This would be the turn circuit. The vehicle didn't come with a white wire, but the generic replacements do. Yours should be: On the right, the green wire is for turn;
• On the left, the yellow wire is the turn; As Tom mentioned, a normal 12V test light has an awl type point that you can pierce each wire checking for voltage.

Loren
SW Washington

(This post was edited by Loren Champlain Sr on Mar 29, 2009, 10:52 PM)

Tom or Loren,

If I replace the socket, will this resolve the problem? I am not able to get a voltage even when I test from the back of the socket. I am assuming that when I replace the socket I will have to re-wire from the front to the back. I am also assuming that I will be able to create a ground that I know will work.
I agree that there is some hair loss trying to fix this problem!

I certainly appreciate your time and knowledge in helping me resolve this issue.
Thanks again!
Stacey

Half the battle is knowing your tester is making contact and a true reading - just a dumb light but you need to know it's either powered or grounded to know that the test will give you helpful info.

A common safety pin well sharpened helps with probing the back side of plug sockets. Sharpen the "awl" part of a test light too such that you can poke a wire (and usually your finger) too OR run the pin right thru a wire.

Note: When making any violations to wire insulation I strongly suggest a drop of like clear nail polish OR some effective seal for even that tiny hole. Liquid electrical tape - anything that works. Just the least moisture over some time makes for more hair loss there which is why so many techs go bald!

When you know a wire is supposed to be ground with a safety pin effectively thru that wire can then be jumper clipped to good known local (body) ground and if all things work you know that's the issue.

Again if already said: To test that something is ground you need to power the clip on test light with known 12v from the car. If all else use jumper cables to get to the back direct from battery.

Keep at it and keep your HAIR!

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston
http://acsource.net/acforum/index.php