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ClutchKick
Novice
Jun 11, 2012, 8:36 PM
Post #1 of 15
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No Power Anywhere.
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Can't Post
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I have a 1981 Mazda Rx7 1.1L 12A Rotary and it was working fine but now I have zero power, not even accessory lights. The battery is fine. The fusible link is fine. I can hotwire the starter from underneath the car, it spins. I'm extremely confused as to what else could cause it to have zero power? Could it be the CPU or the ignition?
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 11, 2012, 8:54 PM
Post #2 of 15
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Do you have power at the ignition switch? Have you verified that the cable connections at all points of the power and ground cables are shiny clean and tight?
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ClutchKick
Novice
Jun 11, 2012, 8:58 PM
Post #3 of 15
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Yeah everything's nice and clean, the hardest part of this is I don't have a voltmeter but I can visually see tiny sparks from the fusible link going to the battery fuse so I know that it is fine. How do I check if the ignition is getting it's power?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 12, 2012, 10:59 AM
Post #4 of 15
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Time go get a multi-meter that does both volts and ohms, and a 12v test light. Suggest the LED one now. Prices vary wildly and pretty much get what you pay for for these. WallyWorld has them or others like that - all seem to be low end but I own some for trunk of car tool box,
T
_________________________________________
Long retired now
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 12, 2012, 6:55 PM
Post #5 of 15
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You can't diagnose an electrical system without electrical tools. As Tom pointed out, they're cheap to get a multimeter and a LED test lamp. What do you mean by being able to see sparks in a fusible link? That doesn't sound good at all.
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ClutchKick
Novice
Jun 13, 2012, 12:26 AM
Post #6 of 15
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Not IN the fusible link, the wire from the battery that attaches to the fusible link, if you rub the metal together small sparks, as in electricity is going between the link and the fuse.
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Discretesignals
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 13, 2012, 1:18 PM
Post #8 of 15
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If you rub them fast enough, it should start a fire.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up on your threads when a problem is resolved.
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ClutchKick
Novice
Jun 13, 2012, 1:55 PM
Post #9 of 15
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Hahahah no, I'm just waiting for the voltmeter, my friend is bringing one over tomorrow I was just saying there is electricity going into the battery fuse.
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ClutchKick
Novice
Jun 13, 2012, 4:24 PM
Post #11 of 15
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I was just saying there is electricity going into the battery fuse. And how would you conclude that?
Electricity is flowing from the battery through the fusible link, into the battery fuse.
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 13, 2012, 4:49 PM
Post #12 of 15
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But that doesn't tell us if the fusible link is intact, just that the circuit isn't completely open. You could very well only be getting a tiny amount of power through a mostly opened fusible link which a voltage drop test will show fast and without the danger to electrical components of arcing them. Wait for the meter.
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ClutchKick
Novice
Jun 19, 2012, 7:14 PM
Post #13 of 15
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I got a multimeter and, like I said, the fusible link and battery are fine but I did notice that while the car is on (still no accessory lights or anything) the fuel pump is running, even though nothing else is electronically working. Is my fuel pump relay fried? Could a relay that's been fried make a fuel pump pump indefinitely and could it cut off the rest of the power to the dash?
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Discretesignals
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 19, 2012, 7:36 PM
Post #14 of 15
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Unplug the electrical connector from the air flow meter. Does the fuel pump stop running with the ignition on?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up on your threads when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 19, 2012, 7:37 PM)
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ClutchKick
Novice
Jun 24, 2012, 5:45 PM
Post #15 of 15
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Well I get dim accessory lights and the starter turns over really slowly, I think I have bad connections so I'm going to go get new cables, I'll try that air flow meter when it stops raining
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