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Ryan71ltd
New User
Feb 20, 2013, 5:41 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1828 views)
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Headlights 71 ltd
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1971
Ford
LTD
2 barrel 5.8 351 windsor
54,000 original.
My headlights will sometimes not turn on when I pull the switch, started as the dims not working and the brights still working. I tried replacing the dimmer switch, still had problem. I then replaced the main headlight switch under the dash, and still had the problem. I found a wire under the hood coming from the headlight switch up to the headlights and it had a spot where it looked worn and possibly making contact and grounding. I tape that up and re positioned the wire and that seemed to fix the problem, both are working. All the other wires coming from the headlights and running in to the back of the motor look fine to me, but the lights are still having the issue intermittently. Last night was driving and the lights went out, I switched to brights and still had nothing, then I stomped the switch harder and they flickered back on. Then they flickered off a little bit driving down a bumpy road, stomping the switch seemed to fix them, however now I'm concerned to drive the vehicle at night. What could I try at this point? Do I need to take to an expert? Would rather not but I can't seem to find the problem.
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 20, 2013, 6:55 PM
Post #2 of 4
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Re: Headlights 71 ltd
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Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? I'd be going back to that rubbed section and repairing it the right way. Taping it keeps it from shorting. Its still exposed to the humidity and its asking for trouble. Cut out the bad section and solder in a new one. Don't twist wires together and tape, solder and heat shrink it. When you replaced the headlight and dimmer switches, were either of the connectors blackened a bit like they'd gotten hot? Were the terminals shiny clean or did they have green death? Did you use dielectric grease on the pins when you reinstalled it? How are your headlight grounds?
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Ryan71ltd
New User
Feb 20, 2013, 7:51 PM
Post #3 of 4
(1799 views)
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Re: Headlights 71 ltd
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Ok I'll try soldering in a new wire in that spot, and no the switches both looked real clean and shiny. All the wires coming off the backs of the switches look good, not loose or anything. I did use grease on the switches. And the rubbed wire I'm talking about is one of the grounds. I have a multimeter, but im not sure how to do any good with it to be honest. I can tell if a wire has juice, that's about it.
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 20, 2013, 9:22 PM
Post #4 of 4
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Re: Headlights 71 ltd
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Then I will show you how to do voltage drop testing. You see, a multimeter set on DC volts only shows you the difference between the two points it is connected to. When you touch it to the posts of the battery, it shows you the difference in readings between the positive and negative terminals which is the battery voltage. What you don;t know is that if you check continuity with your meter it measures that by using just a few milliamps of current. It sends it out and sees what it gets back to make a reading. So on a wire that has many strands you can have most of them broken and just one or two good ones and it will test fine. But when its under load it will fail because it cannot draw enough amps to properly function. This is where the voltage drop test comes into play. For an issue like yours it is key to finding out the exact location of the issue.
This guy has a great vid that can explain to you what I'm trying to do. He's a teacher at a technical school and knows what he's talking about. i don't have my own vids at the moment and can't hold a candle to the man for knowledge so I will let his expertise speak.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0PpLTnKKZg
Learning all this new info at once can make your head spin. If you need more clarification post back and we will try to make your questions clarified for you and let you get the most out of that multimeter. Its a powerful tool in the right hands.
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