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Bad Radio Circuit/Cluster
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s10blues
New User
Oct 21, 2008, 5:47 PM
Post #1 of 6
(2853 views)
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Bad Radio Circuit/Cluster
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I have a 2000 Chevy S10 Pickup 4.3L. I performed this procedure from a different thread:
*(If you have a test light you can find the circuit that is causing the problem. First thing to do is disable any interior lights. Then disconnect the battery negative cable. Hook test light between the negative terminal and the negative cable. The light should not come on. If it comes on, pull one fuse at a time until the light goes out. This is the circuit that has the problem. Just be sure it is not something you have caused by having the doors and hood open (reason for disabling the interior lights first). If you find fuse number, post it back and we can tell you what is on that circuit. If you have owners manual, it will tell you what is on that circuit.*
When I remove the #19 fuse(15A-RDO BATT) the light goes off. However the fuse is NOT blown!!! This fuse seems to support the tach/speedometer/fuel gauge/radio. Thinking it might have been the radio, I removed it and placed the fuse back. I tried the light test again and the light came on. This all started because I was having a power fluctuation while driving. Now I'm stuck again!
Sorry for the long message. Hope someone can help?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 21, 2008, 11:47 PM
Post #2 of 6
(2849 views)
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Re: Bad Radio Circuit/Cluster
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That type test can help find a circuit that drains a battery as in always finding a dead battery after an overnite. There's some residual draw that might light some test lights - especially led ones.
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Start over with what the problem was you were having. What do you mean by a "power fluctuation" while driving? Surge in volts or drop? Are you suffering battery drain when not in use?
T
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s10blues
New User
Oct 22, 2008, 6:54 AM
Post #3 of 6
(2842 views)
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Re: Bad Radio Circuit/Cluster
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Thanks for your response Tom!
It is a drop in voltage while driving. It will start at about 14.0(full?) then drop down to 9.0 or even 6.0. Then it will shoot back up to full. No power seems to be draining from the battery when not in use. Occasionally it won't start back up again when I turn the vehicle off and the batt is not reading full (until I jump it).
I guess I'm confused why during the light test, the only time I can get the light to turn off is if I pull the #19 fuse?
All the other fuses seem to be fine. Also, the back lights for the radio are out?
Thanks again for your help.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 22, 2008, 7:39 AM
Post #4 of 6
(2840 views)
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Re: Bad Radio Circuit/Cluster
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Ok: Let's see how much I can confuse this ? First question is HOW OLD IS THAT BATTERY? Find a date code embossed into plastic of it if needed.
Try not to confuse volts and amps. Volts is push/pressure and amps is amount/volume - kinda. You can put two household common 9v DC batts together and read 18v and it won't start a car - got it?
Volt readings are still very informative. If something can drag the size of a vehicle's battery down to read just 6v that's either a monster load OR a weak battery.
Notice when you start a vehicle (starter is the largest single load) the volts drop off the static ~12.2 which one should read if just setting for a while to 10ish while cranking so if you see SIX something is wrong big time.
If that's not blowing fuses or causing smoke at a burnt unfused wire somewhere it usually would mean the battery can't hack it. Even if just for testing you must know that you are working with a good battery, good connections at battery's cable ends (all) and try to get the reading at the battery itself. If connections are all known good the gauge is ok or even a power port.
You said that the battery is stable when not in use so forget looking for a drain for now and the confusion with things that will continue to use some miniscule power for a while when shut off - delay lighting and some things mess up the test you read - forget that for now.
Know that batteries don't age well and can do funky things like short inside themselves unseen but would read like a major load on it which it is. Alternator would be confused and the situation could self correct so we need to know you are working with a known good battery first. Begin with testing it or swapping it when charged by charger and report back. Right now I'm betting you simply need a new battery,
T
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s10blues
New User
Oct 22, 2008, 8:19 AM
Post #5 of 6
(2836 views)
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Re: Bad Radio Circuit/Cluster
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I think I'm following you, sounds logical.
Thinking a new battery would correct my problems I bought/installed a new one, cleaned the connections, etc.
But the problem persisted. I also had the alternator tested, and it's good. Maybe I need a new starter?
I'll test the battery again and see what happens. Thanks.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 22, 2008, 10:09 AM
Post #6 of 6
(2822 views)
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Re: Bad Radio Circuit/Cluster
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New or not DO test the new battery. You said it responded to jumps which is simulating a good battery. You also mentioned it could run low when driving when starter is no longer involved so for the moment it isn't the whole issue but the cable connection(s) there could be and at the back on alternator.
I know it's a pill but try to take volt reading right from the battery and if this dimming happens and volts there are still right then ability of wires is screwed up or connections even if they look good. Quality of cable is not so terrific, cable ends at the battery are trouble spots or along the way could be partially broken inside without seeing it. Might show hot spot where it's frayed inside.
A starter could draw way too much for amps by itself or the engine is just too hard to turn for some reason. That doesn't explain it happening while driving along.
They do make higher quality complete battery cables which could help if in doubt on those. If you go that route look for the low # on guage of wire used,
T
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