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2005 Ford Focus electrical problem
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darthfenix
New User
Jan 30, 2010, 4:13 PM
Post #1 of 2
(3583 views)
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2005 Ford Focus electrical problem
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my car is a 2005 ford focus, the engine in it however is a 2006, automatice 4 cyclinder, 2.0L 59,000 miles, i blew the old 2005 engine and bought the current engine as a replacement. my alternator recently went out, and i had my step brother replace it, the alternator is a remaned and is the 130 amp california regulations, when i had the current engine put on, the mechanic put my old 2005 alternator plus wiring on this one, the remand i bought is the one for a 2006 engine and is now currently on the motor , he checked and said the right voltage was passing when i restarted the car after it was put on, it was about a month long deal. before that i had driven it on just the battery and i didn't know, so the battery did died at least twice. i got it started today, seemed fine, the dash clicks just under 1000 rpms and when it comes back down clicks again. but, when the rpms hit just over 2000, i lose my dash gauges, (speedometer, rpm, gas, engine temp, battery, all the lights, turn signals, even my cab lights and rear defrost)they get stuck at wherever they were before it, as soon as it comes back down when the car isn't moving, its like it reset, the gauges drop back to like when you first start the car, then resume normal function until it revs above 2000 again, other than that the car runs and idles and everything just fine. my step brother did disconnect the battery when he was working on my vehicle. im not exactly sure what is causing this, my dad says it could be a computer problem, i just want to be sure of what kind of repairs i could be dealing with with my current problem
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 31, 2010, 5:23 AM
Post #2 of 2
(3551 views)
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Re: 2005 Ford Focus electrical problem
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Arggh! At a quick glance it matters and wiring is different for manual or automatic. If alternator didn't just plug in with the original wiring that could be the problem and damage may have resulted.
I would have matched up the original alternator and forget the 10 amp difference for CA or Federal with this. Word has it this is a nasty alternator to replace with engine in place. If plug and wiring was butchered to make it work with a different alternator than the OE one I can't say what problems would crop up but would go back to OE if you still have it - get that one fixed, put back any changes to wiring and cross fingers that it will behave.
Check the battery for it's ability to hold a charge and amp ability with it charged separately from the car. Batteries really object to going dead and don't always just charge up and if just jumped quickly wreaks havoc on alternators,
T
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