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2000 mustang light flicker on and off
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Andrew L
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Jan 29, 2015, 8:42 PM
Post #1 of 21
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2000 mustang light flicker on and off
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Probably something simple but idk much about wiring. Earlier when I was driving my headlights flickered on and off. No other light in my car flickered besides the light to show my headlights are on high. It kept going off and on at the same rate the headlight were so I guess it's something at the main connection? I had my radio going but turned it off quick and the lights kept on doing the same thing till about a mile down the road. This is kinda serious for me since I work 3rd shift so any help is very appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Discretesignals
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Jan 29, 2015, 9:05 PM
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Re: 2000 mustang light flicker on and off
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Remove the connector from the back of the head lamp switch and inspect for melted plastic and burnt terminals. If you have melted plastic and burnt terminals, replace the switch and the connector. They sell a pigtail kit.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jan 29, 2015, 9:07 PM)
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Andrew L
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Jan 29, 2015, 9:25 PM
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Re: 2000 mustang light flicker on and off
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Okay thank you. I will take a look at that when I get off work. Should i be able to check it without having to take off the cover plate thing or will I not be able to reach from just laying on my back looking into the dashboard?
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Discretesignals
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Jan 30, 2015, 5:41 AM
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Re: 2000 mustang light flicker on and off
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Your definitely going to have to remove the cluster finish panel to get access to it. If you have no knowledge of doing electrical repairs on automobiles, you should find a shop.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Andrew L
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Jan 30, 2015, 7:34 AM
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Yeah theres no way I'm going to work on it myself. There's a really good mechanic down the road that has a lot of experience with electrical/auto work. Thanks for the help
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Discretesignals
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Jan 30, 2015, 7:43 AM
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Re: 2000 mustang light flicker on and off
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Your welcome. Let us know how things turn out, so we can resolve your thread.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Andrew L
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Jan 30, 2015, 8:58 AM
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The mechanic is a little backed up at the moment due to a lot of business but I will update ASAP.
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Andrew L
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Jan 30, 2015, 9:00 AM
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Would you be aware of any hazards that could come from me driving during the day? Like sparks from the wires, or worse?...
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Discretesignals
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Jan 30, 2015, 5:04 PM
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If it is only affecting the headlamp circuit, it shouldn't cause any problems driving during the day. The circuits are protected, so you should be ok, unless there was some shady tree wiring done on it.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Andrew L
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Jan 30, 2015, 8:59 PM
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Thanks for that info. Rather be safe then sorry.. And naw every wire in the car is stock wrapped in layers of electrical tape (from the factory) from what I can see under the hood and under the dashboard.
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Andrew L
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Jan 31, 2015, 8:50 PM
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This is a horrible question to ask and I'll probably get joked at for it but why does my + battery post corrode up a good bit? The negative post is perfectly fine.
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nickwarner
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Feb 1, 2015, 2:52 AM
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No reason to think it is a horrible question. Or a reason for joking. Remember there was a time in every genius's life when he was still learning to not crap in his pants.
The reason as has been explained to me when I once asked the question will be here. For those who have more to add or offer conflicting opinions will certainly follow in other posts.
In an electrical circuit of your car, current flow is constant in all parts of the circuit. Voltage, however, is not. Electrical items use voltage to do work, which creates voltage drop and can be measured with a multimeter on the entry and exit points of the load side of a circuit. Current flow not only creates a magnetic field but also tends to ionize electrically the air near it. This is the most prevalent in high voltage areas like heavy transmission towers for industrial current, where workers wear a faraday cage suit to protect themselves.
All lead acid batteries give off hydrogen gas while charging (which your alternator does while the engine is running) and as that gas vents out can carry the fumes of the sulfuric acid the lead plates of the battery are immersed in. This creates a chemical reaction against the metals it is exposed to. The end result is corrosion.
Were you to coat the terminals well in dielectric grease, it would create an impermeable barrier to the acid fumes the would last as long as the protective life of the grease.
The corrosive effects of these fumes can be witnessed easily on 96-00 Caravans. The battery is very close to the left strut tower and a plastic cowling for the windshield wipers Sits over top of them. The fumes from the battery are poorly vented and these vans suffer corrosion to the point that the strut mount rots so badly the strut can push through. It is so common an issue Dorman makes a kit for repairing it, I have seen many of them in various stages of decay being I am in WI that uses salt, and I can tell you I have seen vans from other states that still have strut tower rot on the driver's side only. Takes some time to even start to eat at the passenger side.
So as the voltage leaves you battery it is full of energy and ready to go. It will ionize the air around it more strongly than a weaker voltage. The amount of current returning to the negative side of the circuit is the same, but with a much lower voltage so it is like a distance runner crossing the finish line. It may have kept a steady pace up but is too winded for a burst of anything like when it went off the starting line. It cannot ionize the air with nearly as much strength so it attracts less corrosion.
I am interested to hear responses from some of the other regulars here as to what they think about this that I have posted. It is how it was explained to me a long time ago as I was learning this trade, and while I have seen no reason to doubt the results of going with such logic I have never researched for some conclusive proof either. So someone may bring forth scientific evidence that makes what I said sound as sensible as sacrificing virgins so the corn will grow this year.
What I got out of it is the same as what you are seeing, the positive always builds up more crap on it than the negative. Make friends with a wire brush and dielectric grease to avoid future issues with it.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 1, 2015, 3:34 AM
Post #13 of 21
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Excellent explanation Nick as usual. Andrew L: That is common to some and others don't as much? There is acidic air being vented despite about all recent (many years) batteries do not require checking for level and most do not spit acid around and is/was a serious problem.
IDK for sure why it choses one post more than another on this but some vehicle just have problems more than others.
It needs attentions as said cleaned and called "dialectic" grease used. They sell assorted things called battery grease, corrosion donuts wet with some oily something that do seem to help. Do tend to it when noticed or on a schedule if returns visibly it's causing problems not just there but nearby things as Nick said. Grease up area and things subject to that. Hold down parts especially vulnerable and break.
Nice and ask if you do this for a memory saver so anything in the vehicle doesn't forget settings. Disconnect any hood light while cleaning and don't open a door. Negative cable/post off first and back on last such that you don't ground out positive terminal with tools touching anything while cleaning it up. DON'T LET ANY DIRT ON YOU OR CLOTHING either as it can and does make holes when wet again if a dry dirt/corrosion now.
If that is moist wet now and no reason from some other condition check that battery out and charging system. More apt to do this if charging too much - kinda rare now for that.
BTW and the question is quite important. Don't allow dirt on anything else as said. Baking soda is the opposite (alkaline) to the acid and cancels it for cleaning too as needed.
NOT STUPID AT ALL! WASH YOUR HANDS, USE DISPOSABLE GLOVES OR NEUTRALIZE THEM SEPARATELY. USE ALL CARE IF TRANSPORTING A BATTERY. OMG - VERY WELL COULD PUT HOLES IN CARPET OR OTHER HARM. PUT THEM IN A PLASTIC CONTAINER IF MOVING ONE LIKE IN ANOTHER VEHICLE FOR ANY REASON - BUYING NEW, TAKING ONE BACK FOR RECYCLING ETC.
ONE MORE! PROTECT YOUR EYES ESPECIALLY WHILE CLEANING ONE WITH A BRUSH OR ANYTHING. THIS GOES FOR HANDLING OF ANY BATTERY AUTOMOTIVE AND HOUSHOLD AS WELL IF CORRODED IT CAN HARM YOU AND ASSORTED DEVICES.
VERY REAL ISSUE ALL AROUND,
T
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Andrew L
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Feb 1, 2015, 6:05 AM
Post #14 of 21
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Thank you to both of y'all for giving me good solutions to the problem! That's really good to know. I'll definitely use that info in the future. I always take a wire brush to it but honesty I've never used any kind of grease. And yes I always wear gloves and safety glasses when messing with the battery. I'm still young and learning the basics lol. But really, thank you y'all!
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 1, 2015, 6:44 AM
Post #15 of 21
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Just mix a little baking soda with warm water and pour it on the terminal or dip the terminal in it and it will clean it right up. Just don't let any get inside the battery or spill on your garage floor. It will stain the floor. Hose it all off with water when finished.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Andrew L
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Feb 1, 2015, 7:53 AM
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Y'all have some good tips for this issue. But I'll consider doing that next time it corrodes. Thank you!
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Tom Greenleaf
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Feb 1, 2015, 8:05 AM
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If clean and fine now OR if water not available you still can do some. Even spray with window wash spray, wipe with disposable towels to toss. WD-40 is a decent product for this AND any hold down parts as mentioned. I'm NOT a fan of hosing down an engine unless it can be targeted away from things that shouldn't be sprayed all over with water and NEVER suggest pressure washing engine anything. Take parts or items off to do that if really wanted or necessary.
Put some WD-40 in a can top and use a Q-Tip so you don't have to make a whole mess.
Just know that depending on how corroded with what it can discharge itself thru that dirt from almost nothing to enough to take down the battery over a few days or less as if you left something on.
A couple things with a car are so critical so going anywhere with it. Battery or you walk. Fuel or you walk and so on. It's a top area of troubles that are preventable,
T
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Andrew L
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Feb 1, 2015, 10:25 AM
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Thank you again. And I've used window cleaner to clean my battery before and I like the sound of that WD40 trick. And it drives me crazy seeing people pressure washing their engines at the local car wash in town. But y'all are a big help since I've never really had a father figure to teach me this stuff. Basically learned/learning stuff on my own. But I'll check up whenever I get my car wiring problem situated so the thread can be solved
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Tom Greenleaf
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Feb 1, 2015, 11:19 AM
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Right - I see the pressure washing a HOT engine no less and that's it for that car till the tow truck comes! Jeez - while they are at it why not throw in cell phones, keyboards and the big screen TVs too
If you want clean and pretty just wipe it clean with dry or dampened cloths with also WD-40, certain tire shine/cleaners do well and don't harm the electrical stuff and with a cool/cold engine too.
Back battery and in general you really can see with a meter (DVOM) the current lost thru dirt on a battery just setting there. That seems to speed up the corrosion as well so just makes itself worse.
Can't say for every vehicle and never will but nicer if you can rinse off but there's lots of things in general you don't want soaked like that near many.
Very serious car collectors would never even wash a car with water!
Good luck with the fix for your car,
Tom
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Andrew L
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Feb 1, 2015, 12:07 PM
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Ain't that the truth lol well some people are dumb as a brick. And dang seems like WD40 is a lifesaver. I'll use all these examples/solutions whenever the time comes. But that's true. I'd be scared I'd ruin my engine then I'd have a heck of a lot worse problem. And yeah our town has a old car museum and the cars are constantly shiney but I've never seen the man wash them outside with water. But thank you!
(This post was edited by Andrew L on Feb 1, 2015, 12:08 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Feb 1, 2015, 1:23 PM
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We are going a bit off original topic but yes by brand like WD-40 a lot for assorted things just like it claims. It's a cleaner, lubricant, penetrating oilish uses, water displacing and so on. Sounds insane but is mostly fish oil! It wont and shouldn't say so but once stated totally non toxic up to about edible!!!! I'll pass on that thank you.
Gettin' too old to be as anal retentive about my own cars as once was. Sought out ancient cars on purpose at personal collections - OMG the things some will do!
New cars without the first fingerprint ever by the rows of them! It never ends with that stuff and you don't see them as many are totally private collections.
Back to battery crap. Haven't sprung for one yet but might. They make a high CCA amp gel cell to fit almost all vehicles. Doesn't emit gas or corrode, tolerates being upside down and some serious vibrations. Just not too psyched to drop probably $400 bucks for one just yet OR MORE!
Repeat from a prior post - watch out and tend to the battery hold down as maintenance! Shocking how many first battery replacements stuff busts that can be quite difficult to fix properly. Drill out broken bolts and re-thread a hole and so on.
You can't let a battery tip over while installed and short out or no telling what horrors could happen!
Yup - a simple (seems so) battery can be quite dangerous if things go wrong,
Tom
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