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2000 Chevy Malibu 3.1 V6 won't start, 137,500 miles

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New User

Nov 19, 2017, 2:26 PM

Post #1 of 2 (337 views)
2000 Chevy Malibu 3.1 V6 won't start, 137,500 miles Sign In

About 2 weeks ago car died when turning a corner. After restarting, had to keep the rpms above 1200 to keep it from stalling out. Then it died about a week later coming into the driveway and would not restart. Found no spark on any cylinder. Found fuse 41 (10 amp) to the ignition control module burned. This fuse blew each time the key was turned to On. Changed all plugs (very bad), checked plug wires (good), and coils (good). Installed new camshaft sensor and new crankshaft sensor. Have not changed the harmonic balancer sensor. These were done from some ideas from others trying to help. Had ignition module tested twice at o'reilly - good. However, with module sitting on plate and all connectors and coils removed, it still tested to ground on A and B for C3. Removed ignition module to kitchen, rerang (ohms) with dmm and then replaced all components one at a time and checking fuse after each component. All back together gently and now fuse does not blow and get good spark all cyls (don't know why except that one of the harnesses I moved may have a problem). Anyway, still no start (cranks great, and great spark). Good fuel pressure in the rails. No DTCs using Innova 3100e. Some time ago fuel pressure regulator failed. Looking for ideas on areas to check further. With key in On (koeo) have all normal dash lights (theft light steady). Also tried a reprogram suggested by someone (key on for 10 mins. then start; repeated 3x) - no change. Thanks in advance for any and all input!!

Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Nov 19, 2017, 3:06 PM

Post #2 of 2 (324 views)
Re: 2000 Chevy Malibu 3.1 V6 won't start, 137,500 miles Sign In

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.


We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.

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