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2000 Buick Regal, cranks but won't start


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micsmithfidnet
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Sep 1, 2012, 2:32 PM

Post #1 of 2 (1784 views)
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2000 Buick Regal, cranks but won't start Sign In

We have a 2000 Buick Regal that would not start, gave the appearance of a fuel pump problem. After towing to shop, they were able to determine the fuel pump was good (had just been replaced 5 months ago), because it started when they wired it directly. After several days at one dealership, they gave up and sent it to another dealership. The car randomly started, and consistently started for 3 days. Nothing was done to repair the car, it just started working. Now it is sitting and has failed to start.


Double J
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Sep 1, 2012, 3:14 PM

Post #2 of 2 (1764 views)
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Re: 2000 Buick Regal, cranks but won't start [In reply to] Sign In

Obviously the vehicle needs to be checked when the concern IS present

If you have it at a dealer or competent shop ,they will know how to perform strategy based diagnostics to verify the source of failure
Intermittent problems/concerns are the hardest to diagnose sometimes

Here is how to test to see whats missing, 'Courtesy of Hammer Time'

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.


(This post was edited by Double J on Sep 1, 2012, 3:15 PM)




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