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1999 Ford Windstar with Many electrical problems
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zerocool5878
New User
Sep 7, 2011, 12:09 PM
Post #1 of 5
(4542 views)
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1999 Ford Windstar with Many electrical problems
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Year of vehicle 1999
Make of vehicle (Ford/ Chevrolet) Ford
Model of vehicle ( Taurus/ Cavalier) Windstar
Engine size (2.0/ 5.7) 3.8
Mileage/Kilometers 140,000
Problems:
1. Cluster goes wacky when driving bouncing like crazy sometimes. If I tap the cluster it straightens up. (loose connection maybe)
2. Both front windows do not work
3. Passenger side brake light doesn't work (yes I changed the bulb)
4. ABS and traction light comes on and off (I think this one is unrelated but I thought I would add it)
So this vehicle has a history of electrical problems 3 weeks ago my Battery light went on and it turned out to be the alternator. I replaced it and now yesterday the alternator went again. my first thought was maybe I got a bad alternator but the history of this car makes me think its more of an electrical problem. I decided to check for something that could cause it to go bad so fast.
What I have done so far to diagnose:
I checked the amp draw on the battery with key off and it had an amp draw of over 1000mA I thought that this was high because my other car same test shows a draw of 50mA
Next I pulled all low amp fuses from both inside panel as well as under the hood. At this point I now have a draw of under 20mA One by one i start to replace the fuses under the hood.
First fuse replaced that causes a big spike is #2 Power train control Module, Front Electronic Module. Now all but that fuse is installed under the hood so I start with the inside panel.
Next fuse that give a tiny spike (20mA) is #6 but this has the radio and remote keyless entry module so I think this is probably ok.
Next fuse that caused a big spike was #16 Cluster, Rear Electronic Module.
So without #16 inside and #2 under hood I have a draw of 45mA Im not sure where to go from here. Is there some more tests that I can do to narrow down the problem. I mean it so far it seems like I am on the right track as the fuses I am talking about coincide with the problems I am having at least some of them Any advise would be greatly appreciated I really don't have the money to pay a mechanic to diagnose this further so I would like to go as far as I can myself if possible.
Any advise you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Mike
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 7, 2011, 3:00 PM
Post #2 of 5
(4519 views)
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Re: 1999 Ford Windstar with Many electrical problems
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Guess: You may have a bad battery new or not and messing the whole show up and damaging things,
T
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zerocool5878
New User
Sep 7, 2011, 3:14 PM
Post #3 of 5
(4513 views)
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Re: 1999 Ford Windstar with Many electrical problems
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The battery is less then a year old. While I agree i may have a bad battery. I think the cause of that would again lean towards the short in the 2 and/or 16 fuse. Drawing over 1000mA all day every day is sure to damage things I would think.
I am leaning towards a short in the cluster as of now.
Thoughts?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 7, 2011, 3:48 PM
Post #4 of 5
(4511 views)
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Re: 1999 Ford Windstar with Many electrical problems
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Again, new or not a battery can fail. When it does depending on exactly how it will take out your alternator and can cause damage to about anything electrical.
Suggest paying a shop with Zillions invested in tools and you decide to fix this yourself or farm it out,
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 7, 2011, 3:55 PM
Post #5 of 5
(4502 views)
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Re: 1999 Ford Windstar with Many electrical problems
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Did you have all your doors closed and allow all the timers to expire before taking that reading?
You're doing things a bit backwards by removing all the fuses and putting them back one at a time. You should be removing them one at a time while watching the draw. They all spike when first turned on.
Here is the procedure that you should follow.
You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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