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1996 sunfire gt - possible fuse issue? please help
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skitzy
New User
May 9, 2008, 3:32 AM
Post #1 of 4
(1246 views)
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1996 sunfire gt - possible fuse issue? please help
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i have a 1996 sunfire gt --- my car was running great until one day i started it and a lot of the electrical components wouldnt turn on... (dash lights and guages, interior lights, head lights, horn, radio, lighter, power locks) does anyone have any ideas of what it could be? i have checked my fuses for those items and everything seems to be ok..
thanks for the help
shannon
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 9, 2008, 5:03 AM
Post #2 of 4
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Re: 1996 sunfire gt - possible fuse issue? please help
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How did you check fuses? Appearance isn't enough right now. There is probably one larger fuse, perhaps underhood to cover several items - a much larger fuse. Check them for power at both sides with a circuit test light. Test for a fuse with no power at either side and that is suspect. If you have the owner's manual it may say what items are covered by that fuse and it could just be the contacts of the fuse itself - pull out - test for power where it plugs in and clean or shine up the spade contacts, lube with a smear of very light lube and re-install and see it the items then get the power,
T
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skitzy
New User
May 9, 2008, 10:22 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1237 views)
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Re: 1996 sunfire gt - possible fuse issue? please help
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for checking the fuses?.. my husband looked at them.. none of them looked blown.. but apparently they can be gone with out it being visibly noticable??.. and now the car wont start.. we can hear the starter clicking... but it wont turn over :( any other suggestions?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 9, 2008, 11:53 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1233 views)
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Re: 1996 sunfire gt - possible fuse issue? please help
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Ok: Right now the battery needs to be charged up and tested before anything else and clean the connections/cables to it. There's a problem there that we can get to separately.
You can usually tell if a fuse is blown by looking at them but it doesn't verify it or tell if current is there. Two handy tools that don't cost so much is a 12v circuit tester, and a multimeter. Multimeter can do lots more but the circuit tester is quick and easy for just testing for current which should be showing at BOTH sides of a fuse when empowered and if only one side lights the tester the fuse is bad. Multimeter can tell you the voltage or just that there is known continuity between the spades of a fuse. Sounds complicated but really isn't.
When multiple items don't work you are looking for a fuse, fusable link or something in common to all. There is likely a fuse (larger size) that covers all the items mentioned and a different fuse box probably under the hood.
Bet you will find there's no power at fuses in the car's interior fuses that control the items. The source to those needs to be checked upstream towards the battery and the testers save lots of time. If you find a blown fuse and it blows again upon replacement there's a short to find.
Didn't check your list of items but the power ports/cig lighters can catch coins and cause quick short and blow fuses - worth a check.
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It really helps to charge up automotive batteries with a charger. Basic trickle (2amp) automatic charger is a little as $18 bucks but will take several hours to charge a battery. Others will be faster, larger and cost more but if you have the time the small unit is handy.
6-12 volt circuit tester is just a screwdriver type light in handle probe the detects voltage present and when used in reverse tells ground is available. That's just $3.96 at Wally World as are all the items I'm mentioning.
Multimeter can test the integrity of a connection and the actual voltage. El cheapo is under $10 bucks. Decent larger one is about $20 and both can also be used for household use/testing, even little batteries. These are basic "must haves" for the handy person and for automotive testing.
Most cars come with spare fuses and when you find a blown one ALWAYS replace with one of the exact same rating.
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Let's get the car started which is somewhat unknown why right now. It may respond to a jump but if you can charge it first then we can do some testing. Note: A very low battery or bad battery can be very hard on the car's alternator and the donor car so I suggest jump starting as a last resort and if that's all that's available, leave cables connected and both cars running for a full 15 minutes - yeh it's a lot a gas but it can save more bucks in alternators big time!
T
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