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1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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irishmantx
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Nov 26, 2010, 10:15 PM
Post #1 of 9
(1927 views)
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1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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Dear Group,
My post apparently got deleted? I am having possible electrical problems
on my 1988 GMC S15 truck. I am noticing the 1157 bulbs keep burning out,
before and after an accident back in 2008. I replace often and I wonder
where could there be a parasitic load, exposed wire, or corroded connector?
Am I using the wrong bulbs, and also, my batteries I get seem to die and
drain quickly. :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( :(( The mechanic's I take my truck to
in Central Texas tell me it's 'nothing' or won't say anything fooling me that
it's fixed but it really isn't.
Could it be a short, or exposed wire? I also noticed the computer box
may have malfunctioned, and possibly any electrical connectors to the
T.B.I. It's hard to say, I had 5 mechanics not even check the wiring since
I bought this truck.
I had new starter replaced, battery replaced (Interstate Battery did
'die' only after 3 years of use.) battery cable replaced, fuel injector
replaced, key ignition switch to start vehicle replaced, but the strangest
thing, it would run really great during the day run without a problem, but at
some time during the morning and evening hours it would run, and want to
die. Just as if something kept power to the injector and refuse to start
after cranking. Its like it ran like a champ then 'poof' begin to shut down
without real warning. The shift light would come on, then engine light,
and I'd restart it would fight me on starting after I crank it a few times.
I'd drain the old battery but I suspect the computer or the TBI to be at
fault?
irishmantx
76531
"OK Chewie, Try'er now! Woah! TURN IT OFF!!"
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 26, 2010, 11:02 PM
Post #2 of 9
(1922 views)
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Re: 1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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Just bulb for this reply:
I found that it should be using 2057 bulbs. That could explain it for the bulbs blowing early.
Near sure 1157 would fit in the socket and not sure if contacts are identical or not but there's a problem with that by my look up.
3 years and a battery failure: Not unusual to me anyway especially if let run down several times it takes life out of them. In vehicles I really count on or others really count on I suggest tossing them by 4 years just anyway. Wish I could find a chart of the sudden death of batteries by age. They flake inside unseen and when the flakes touch the bottom of the plates it's all over and by surprise many times. Can take out your alternator too if it tries too hard on a hopeless battery. The newer the vehicle the more important.
You have a ton of miles on this pup sport AND and accident. Lots of possibilities for wiring issues with that.
Look and feel wiring especially where it passes thru metal or catches vibration of engine/power train. Don't forget ground straps that are all over the vehicle. Engine to frame and many other places cause strange problems if broken or poor connections. Shouldn't be the cause of blowing bulbs but definitely can cause erratic problems up to not running at all.
In chassis vehicles the engine block get ground directly. Frame is actually suspended on rubber so it needs be connected and for sure the body will be use as ground all over the place.
There should be a rubber block where tons of wires go thru fire wall that can mess up too. I think in '88 it was just a mess of spade connection stuffed with grease but have found that to be the issue with some. You can just slightly twist on the spade so it makes a better contact or at least I've had luck with that. Not unlike what you might do to household plugs that get worn or an item that gets plugged in and out a lot,
T
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irishmantx
User
Nov 27, 2010, 3:23 AM
Post #3 of 9
(1917 views)
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Re: 1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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Dear Tom,
When I bought this truck, back in 2005 for only $700.00 bucks from my supervisor,
it was "AS IS" no warranty.
I didn't know the real history and before 'carfax' got popular this was from owner
to owner. Not a dealership. The first time I drove a standard transmission. It is a 5
speed, so I had to practice and save my money to purchase this truck.
I got to learn how to drive stick. Shortly after I bought it, a lot of things went wrong
but my ignorance of the lemon laws and statute of limitations ect hurt, but I got a
truck that's mine. :D
The battery was replaced, the head lights were replaced, tires, then fuel pump,
fuel filter, rotor, dist cap.. plugs, wires... then when the alternator went out,
on a road trip, I replaced it myself..
It's been a touch and go, fix up here and there... then Sept 2008, the accident.
It never was the same since. After I got the truck in 2005, it was a good little truck.
Without a real electrical history and what was replaced or how worn the things were
it had 192,290 miles.. I added the rest. :P
I had too many shade tree mechanics fool around, not knowing if they knew what
they were doing. I admit on a tighter than a leather lycra budget, its hard to find and
trust a good mechanic to diagnose troubleshoot and properly check over a used truck.
Well I hope to find someone in Texas to go over the electrical problems on my truck,
and find any more issues. I'll put 2057's all over the truck. I'll try that! I need to find
a mechanic who knows what he / she is doing, do a great job and not screw me over.
Wish there was a 'mechanics list' website to find good mechanics and let me give
feed back for good or bad service.
I hope this truck lasts longer, and should I replace the bulbs before I put the
computer back into the truck or after?
Shalom,
irishmantx
76531
"OK Chewie, Try'er now! Woah! TURN IT OFF!!"
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 27, 2010, 6:07 AM
Post #4 of 9
(1916 views)
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Re: 1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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Your previous question was deleted because you created multiple
questions about the same vehicle and basically the same problem. Please
keep all your responses within one thread and not start any more new
ones.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 27, 2010, 7:43 AM
Post #5 of 9
(1907 views)
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Re: 1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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With the bulbs always ask at the parts store what they list for OE replacements. Done with the biz for a while now but many times it one bulb plain blows from age/use the companion one will also soon so doing them in pairs especially if known original is suggested by me. Guess it was a couple years already but replace four front turn signal bulbs, proper #s when one blew on a 96 Suburban so did them all. Damn if in no time one blew? Put one good old one back as those are easy to do on that vehicle. Then another new one blew.
Back to store to re-replace them all again and I wanted the same batch # so actually ordered them. Had to be just a bad day where they were made as they've be fine since.
Quality: Some and many parts now made in China can be fine or have very poor quality control. That country is capable of making high quality no doubt but are doing what was contracted as prices less than the package of the best N. American stuff so it's a rock and hard place.
The repairs and items you listed since purchase in 2005 isn't a bit surprising and basically I'll call that normal for age and miles. I know Texas climate is easier on vehicles than Rusty Massachusetts especially the rust factor mostly from road salt used. Of many I owned an '84 S-10 Blazer 2.8 w 700R auto 4X4 that was about scrap needing tons. No accidents history and was a customer's car so knew a good bit about it. Was rusted badly, but frame and most of drivetrain was good so I went for it. All lower body parts were rusted thru but these are so popular they sell what I'll call "chips" which are non OE body parts of just lower fenders and things well known to go so did all areas not to be pretty but strong and stop the damn road dirt from spraying in even at the interior spare tire on that thing.
That was marginally cared for and w undesireable late carbuerated engine but I gave it tons of proactive work as it was a non A/C vehicle from new - perfect because I wanted it for a snow plow vehicle and that just makes more room for an hydraulic pump where a compressor would have been.
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The accident you had is the biggie. You just don't know so easy what got hurt where depending on how hard a hit it took. Also, many vehicles but I find more with GM products the wiring connections don't age well. Took as many as I could find apart and re-greased them or replaced if corroded. Always best to solder in spliced in connections and shrink wrap over the splice and more - paint liquid electrical tape over all of that too. Comes as a "brush in cap" type of liquid fast drying Neoprene I think as the stuff resists even gasoline - many things don't.
You should be able to find sockets used that are good or no doubt new if they don't look good. Bulbs should light without being put back in lenses in this and wiggle wires to see if they react and silicone grease the bulb connections. Many of the original bulbs and things throuout were smeared with like thick mustard like grease - with age and heat finally can get crusty so I choose silicone grease on all every time for any bulb. Still should be the intended bulb.
1988 was fairly low tech computer wise but if you have it out now, do the bulbs first. I don't think the computer monitors anything about bulbs in 1988. At your miles it doesn't mean it's all over for the thing just certain things plain aren't going to last that long without attention or replacement. The accident opens the book on possible strange stuff.
How hard was the hit anyway? You kept it so doesn't sound like it was a total mess. Still wiring has taken years of heat, some cold and lots of vibrations and the plain insulation of wiring doesn't always age well. Look for trouble spots, grease connections and replace bad ones properly.
Not sure what the 2.5 used for a timing chain or possible belt but I think it's a long chain and should have been done by this many miles. How long an engine can last is a tough call. They sure like regular oil changing. Clutch, std trans, rear differential can last ages or not mostly depending on how it's used IMO.
Look for phsical problem spots. Get the proper bulbs in. Forget trying to alter their power at this point which just will cause need for other alterations. I believe the bulbs you used are lower wattage than what I found listed which could be wrong so ask away when buying them. That would be inconsistant with blowing fuses but dunno if the contacts are identical either?
The good news is about every part of these trucks is still available without too much trouble,
T
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irishmantx
User
Nov 27, 2010, 2:04 PM
Post #6 of 9
(1898 views)
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Re: 1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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Dear Hammer Time, and Tom
I was extremely tired when I made the post so I apologize about the
redundant redundancy. My bad.
I was driving on an empty stomach, and heading to a restaurant when
I took a short cut, and took a turn a wee bit too fast. Result? The right
rear wheel, snagged a concrete culvert pipe, ripped the wheel off of the
axle clean, snagged the rear axle, totally destroyed the right rear
drive train, differential ect. Body damaged the lower corner of the cab,
rocker panel, and right section of the short bed.
So far, I've found a nicer camper shell, to replace the decimated one.
Like I said, the mechanic I took it too, is just a shade tree at least a
busy shade tree. He didn't do a professional job like he was supposed to.
He replaced the rear axel, shocks, leaf springs ect but... didn't check
the wiring, or damage to the starter, and or the transmission. In other
words he charged me $900 to redo the entire rear end of the truck,
didn't check the other part of the truck till it broke down, forcing me to
go back to him to charge me another 900 to rebuild the transmission,
which should have done in the 1st place.
After that was 'resolved' I then started having injector / crank no start
issues. It was like I felt sabotaged! I can't prove any of this, except if
there is a God knows the truth.
Then it got worse, toward the morning and evening was when the probelm
would occur. In fact, I spent $400 getting a new injector replaced, key
ignition replaced, and battery cable. The truck 'died' in the shop right at
closing time. It did the same darn thing, run really smooth, then 'die'
start up, struggle to run rev the engine fast then the shift light, and check
engine light lights up then the truck gurrgled, burps, brapps, and stops
with a loud CHUFFF. I'd start again, and the whole truck shakes.
The 'other' mechanic I took this truck too is still baffled till some guy
on parole says he loves Chevy's says its the computer going out. I
don't know.
Then I just got my 1981 Ford Granada hauled from another shade tree
mechanic who told me the motor overheated and ran rough. But I'm taking
this project slow as my funds are really low right now. :((
Should I take this truck to the crusher since I am having a hard time with it?
And swear off GMC and Chevy and go back to Ford? This truck is depressing me
but I need some serious money. My 1st Ford Ranger burned up, my 2nd Ranger
got repossessed and my 1st GMC S15 is giving me hell.
But, like all of my loser ex girlfriends, I'll rebuild her one piece at a time, and
get her going. At least my truck can't get pregnant. lol I just like to know a real
ASE mechanic that knows what he/she is doing and does a professional job.
I'll get the 2057 bulbs. Replaced on pay day, and get the old box swapped
with the new box, since I have to special order the computer box. THE CPU
chip is in a computer static bag. I need a break working on my truck, so I
will focus on my 1981 Ford Granada. I think all she needs is the tank flushed,
lines purged and a rebuild carb kit or rebuilt carb? Just need a little TLC,
tires, brakes, shocks, coil springs, drive shaft checked and u-joints, rear
diff checked, and hear the engine. No big computers to mess with.
Shalom,
Michael D. Lucas
irishmantx
76531
"OK Chewie, Try'er now! Woah! TURN IT OFF!!"
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 28, 2010, 7:30 AM
Post #7 of 9
(1889 views)
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Re: 1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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Note on wiring and collisions of assorted types: The hit could be in the back but if you had a slow motion show of how much the whole body torqued you'd be shocked. No telling what exceeded fairly well thought out wiring to tolerate normal extremes.
Wiring everywhere is placed and protected in about any brand of vehicle. Some factory mistakes or engineering mistakes do happen.
GM is as good as a Ford product IMO yet I gravitate to Ford just because I'm more familiar with their tricks.
It's incomprehensible how much engineering goes into designing a car. What increasingly lacks is engineering in more simplicity for even routine service items. It's much more practical to design to be able to assemble new and fast with few original defects then you really are on your own.
When a wiring problem stays broken it should be able to be found. Anything intermittent is going to be a real hassle as testing while working is near fruitless. Guessing can get expensive and wasteful,
T
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irishmantx
User
Nov 29, 2010, 7:30 AM
Post #8 of 9
(1878 views)
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Re: 1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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Dear Tom,
With that said, IMO, this GMC S15 has had a very rough life.
Basically its hard to tell how bad it was 'torqued' and how bad
the damage is, till I find someone to go over and check any
trouble spots.
I'll start with the 2057 bulbs on the front and rear areas, and
get the computer core box swapped out. Just trial and error,
and patience. Right now, this truck is going to stick around the
house, and town if it runs reliably enough to take me to post
office or get coffee ect. At least in the morning and in the
evening when I had the most trouble.
I might put my effort into my 1981 Ford Granada. I got the
right battery cable, just need to raise up the car to get to the
bracket where the negative cable is. Fix the door locks and
hook up a gas can to see if the motor can start and run.
I posted a new post about the gas tank and some questions.
Thanks Tom I am grateful for your help with my truck. I need to
find some cats for my boy cat to keep him company. He's 'fixed'
but hates being alone. :P
Shalom,
irishmantx
Michael D. Lucas
76531
"OK Chewie, Try'er now! Woah! TURN IT OFF!!"
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 29, 2010, 9:27 AM
Post #9 of 9
(1872 views)
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Re: 1988 GMC S15 2.5liter, 315,000 miles.
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OK: Again - double check for correct bulbs. If software of a store is wrong and can be is messes up the show. It's not funny but someone at some time put all that into software and a mistake makes a nightmare that lives on. NAPA has had an excellent record for me for being right the first time.
If you have a lot of the 1157s that still work they may fit the Granada. Bulbs are near always marked on the metal base. That or give them to someone with a plain trailer as many use those and boat trailers getting a dunk now and then they don't last for crap. Hot bulb and cold water don't mix well. Stupid but a lot of basic trailers don't use water tight lenses!
For S-15 + S-10s there's probably one major bunch of wiring that runs under vehicle. Can't say for sure.
Forgot and can't look back while I'm typing - If this truck is wired for a trailer many times it can be a hack job and trouble spot. If so and in question redo that if needed and check the plug or replace if needed. Not big bucks. If a break or flaw in wire is found try to do a real solder job, shrink wrap over that and liquid electrical tape over all of it for a good seal. Pay attention to gauge of wire and that it's for automotive use if a section need be spliced with new.
Keep at it - you'll get there,
Tom
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