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how to repair a panel that will last years?
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bezford
New User
Jul 30, 2013, 2:50 PM
Post #1 of 2
(1592 views)
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how to repair a panel that will last years?
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 hi guys,im new to this site and im really searching for an experienced bodywork person to help me out...My Peugeot 206 gti137,2002 model on 73000mls has unmittingly to me on purchase some 18months ago,had a really quite poor repair on the drivers rear quarter and over the past 18mnths the car has gone from really clean all round....to a right rust bucket on the drivers rear quarter.
Now the car has even failed its mot partly because of the drivers sill and the rear quarter are so corroded that they need addressing fast.
My main question here is how to repair the sill/quarter patches in a way that will last for a good number of years to come without the repair failing again like on the poor rushed job its already had?
I guess the real trick for me,having had some experience with body repair,is how to fill a car with filler aka bodge and prep it for paint then paint in its stages but do all this in a way that will eliminate the map like contour marks that appear on these panels after some time?????ruining the entire job and wasting a lot of cash things being as costly as they are.......
If anyone has any good advice with the map contours and how to do a quality job that will last then please help me out as im needing the car for mot pass but i want it to be done right...
OH!!!please bare in mind the entire job will be done outside in the sun or not...
Thanks folks..
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Aug 2, 2013, 12:20 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1553 views)
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Re: how to repair a panel that will last years?
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Have you considered finding a rear quarter at the salvage yard? If it's as bad as you suggest that is one alternative.
I'm no pro but I do know that with body filler you can only use it up to a certain thickness. So, you may have to get some sheet metal and patch it in.
I've welded a few holes in some vehicles of our. I used a tig setup since I don't have a mig but have heard mig is the preferred method. There are some out there who would rather use tig though. The good thing about mig is that it will transfer less heat. Less heat means less warping of the parent material. Personally I'd rather use tig just because I enjoy tig welding more. It's pretty easy to build up panels so you don't even have to use any filler at all. I'm actually in the process of repairing the rocker panels and cab corners in my GMC Sierra right now.
As for the paint there's no huge secret to it. Painting is kind of like welding. The better you prep the surface the better it is going to turn out. If you want it to last you have to get all of the rust out. If you leave any rust that old stuff will continue eating away into good metal. It doesn't take long either.The paint job is only as good as the paint so you aren't going to want to use some $7 rattle can crap you bought from the local parts store. Even if you go to a paint store they are going to have different grades of paint. The last time I bought some auto paint a quart of paint ranged from $45 to like $150 because of the quality of the paint. Same goes for the clear coat.
Once you get the surface patched and prepped wipe it down with solvent and then shoot it with a good primer. Sand, wipe down with solvent, and shoot it with a few coats of base. You then shoot it with the clear coat. The now have basecoat and clear coat as one. It's a little more pricey though.
Like I have already mentioned, I'm no pro but this is pretty much what has always been recommended to me. I don't think we have any bodywork pros here but a few do have some knowledge in bodywork. I'm sure they'll chime in too.
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