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What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra?


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eqrash
User

Feb 16, 2019, 9:32 AM

Post #1 of 9 (230 views)
What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

Are all body panels the same guage and grade of steel? Im considering doing some patch work with either a welder or some bondo but the rust holes are a little big and Im thinking I might have to resort to steel.... So I was hoping someone might know what grade of steel i need to find...


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Feb 16, 2019, 11:38 AM

Post #2 of 9 (219 views)
Re: What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

? IMO and know I call that somewhat "faking it" for a repair vs whole panels new. No problem just find what you can bend and cut that's substantial enough. Your call on weld or aluminum rivets all depends avoiding heat could help not burn off more unseen paint left on what is staying makes it rust faster.
Do know it will come back and the rust is already much farther away from just what made holes,


Tom



eqrash
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Feb 16, 2019, 11:45 AM

Post #3 of 9 (207 views)
Re: What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

Why do you consider it to be faking it? Isnt such pretty much standard practice for body shops and old hotrods? Im probably going to have to do some painting anyways the whole thing was dinged up by the previous owner.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Feb 16, 2019, 1:28 PM

Post #4 of 9 (198 views)
Re: What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

Standard practice for pro work - NO. It's rusted you never win. OK - one of a kind wild valuable and rare you do whatever it takes no expense spared. Take fenders/panes off strip them of rust in an acid bath and build back up. OMG - tools the roll steer to shape and or find whole unrusted similar cars with same parts as parts cars. That's extreme out of the question for worth it.
Go ahead. You'll make it better just don't expect it to look real great or last. It's super hard plus a wild skill to do so it looks like nothing was touched never mind not have it com right back showing bondo if not just paper thin paint will show just that later with wrinkles.
You couldn't want that level vs a new panel then just paint. That alone is costly if isolated. Sheet metal rust marks the beginning of a lost battle usually unless somehow just that piece came from another before and was already lousy the rest of car not like that.
Not to discourage you go for it. It's hard to make look great. A spray booth that is fine filtered are, well lit just for the finish. OMG who has all that unless doing it all the time plain damage or clean car repaints?
Understand how sore the word rust means to me personally and what it mean to metal. OMG you just can't win well for perfect you can for lots better, safe and legal if not structural.
Find a local auto body paint and supply outlet check out what stuff they might have for the trade of body work is on its own will/should still sell to you. Better stuff, ideas even maybe a nice large close color stripe over your work on both side just takes your eyes off of it.
A maybe just went thru this one of my own is partial body parts, pre bent with lap you can fit into common rusted areas for vehicle. That's common for trucks, vintage cars and of very special interest there were lots of. If this somehow had that interest you'd be buying new OE parts and panels.


Still do it but check under and other areas like behind wheels, also called 'torque box' areas that must be strong and lip where you would jack it up both painted side and behind that.
It's not my trade but have done many to be safe useable cars that are presentable. It's also illegal where I live and other states of US to have rust that makes a hole now taking pictures or that car must be fixed or taken off the road! Bit extreme now enforced for inspection stickers required no matter how old or new if for use on public roads comply or junk it. That bad - really,


T



eqrash
User

Feb 16, 2019, 8:01 PM

Post #5 of 9 (186 views)
Re: What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

Shucks, rust belters are serious. You speak of acid wash though.... I hope I'm not beating the mule here but I think its fun.... And yes I am crazy. I go through a lot of muels and tools.... I already have to repaint it and have the time since Im not worth nearly as much an hour as I save doing my own work....

Does the rust typically reside on the surface or can it penetrate more solid portions of the panel? I was taking a gander at some rust inhibitors like rust Mort or the two different bottles of Rustoleum (one viscous and one is liquid like the rust mort). Is this stuff strong enough to kill all the left over rust if I grind it down to metal every where? The vicious stuff looks like it creates an acrylic layer over the rust it reacts with and I've got a test sheet out on the desk I'm going to see if the short stranded fiber glass will adhere to fairly well before I start on the car. The liquid I was going to use on the panel after I sand it down. Do you think it would work fairly well or is there a better acid I could use to do it?

Also I've got some exposed framework mounting my control arm I was hoping to insulate before it rusts out... Pretty thick though, a big ole triangle plate I can't find on the parts river... We use brine on our streets here.... I hate the stuff.... Luckily it looks like it'll survive the salt season, I'm not too worried about it cuz I'll do it in a moment's notice this spring.

And don't think I won't like it if you get me googling all night green bean, I like information. I might even buy ya a beer if you ever find your self in Nebraska.


(This post was edited by eqrash on Feb 16, 2019, 8:19 PM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Feb 17, 2019, 12:50 AM

Post #6 of 9 (168 views)
Re: What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

Wow - you can type away too - smile. OK - I'm in MA did work and a year in CO so going thru NE was a routine I-80 back and forth more times than I can count now long ago. To Colorado that doesn't use salt you see the grey coal slag darkens ice/snow when sun comes out it almost boils it away is harmless.


Here and most places use mined ROCK salt is so corrosive it goes right thru 2" steel of major bridge supports so a car, truck - crap even the metal guard rails don't hold up it suks big time.
It's about what you do about it end up give up by the time it's causing structural problems. What you are seeing, sanding away isn't the real problem it's what you don't see it's wrecking strength of the car as a whole - watch out you may go to jack it up for example and jack goes up but car doesn't it just sunk into a hole!
The super fixes are just too costly. Acid bath like I think Oxalic, Muriatic whole vehicle dipped and stripped or parts one by one. Hey, this is MA too much of a hazmat don't think it's done anywhere near me anymore.
Just look hard and cut out what you can put it back and choose how to hold metal there or that fiber glass also starting with I call "Tiger Hair" (type of bondo) you can buy some time if cosmetic, superfluous damage not for structural repair if just a spot send that out for pro welding or find out if the car is about to be a disaster so you know and can give up.


Do keep in mind there are numerous brake lines, fuel lines, fuel tanks or other tanks, exhaust parts even what they hang onto. Seat belt anchors and the list goes on.


Cars/trucks are junked all the time under 10 years old exposed to it too much especially wet road use at higher speeds is that salt brine gets everywhere, inside doors and under rubber weather strip of windows - just vomit the game is lost.
Get this car up overhead so you can see the whole deal. That's what MA does now for inspections if bad you take that vehicle off the roads not later it's illegal to use right at the place you are ****ed! Car could look good and know this soft as a wet cracker underside!


What helps is IN ADVANCE! Grease things by spray greases, oils not paints that seal it in! Best - don't use the vehicle at all for a few months a year is what I do and sacrifice one that's doomed anyway.


Once already started and fully underway you really will not win just buy short time. It's lots of work and time as up top I CALLED IT FAKING IT vs show quality or undetectable from new cost more than a vehicle did new by 10X so forget that.
I can't know your exact scene and how bad or fixable so leave that to you. Get it overhead best a real shop get the whole idea before you go too nuts or know you really can buy some time - it's unknown how much time you get doing what?


Good luck the problem suks,


Tom



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Feb 17, 2019, 1:09 AM

Post #7 of 9 (161 views)
Re: What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

Just to add what RUST can do. Shortest video of a whole steel bridge totally collapses traffic and all in seconds. BTW was inspected all along to avoid this or so it was said. FYI was in Minnesota, 35W bridge in 2007,
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osocGiofdvc <


Do keep in mind the steel was made for supernatural strength to hold up untold weight of itself plus what could be on it! Fell like a play toy on film speaks for itself,


Tom



eqrash
User

Feb 17, 2019, 1:35 AM

Post #8 of 9 (152 views)
Re: What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

We probably need to start adding a layer of the stuff used to undercoat cars... Rust taking out bridges and errosion taking out retaining walls wreak havoc on bystanders.... It did wonders for this car though, that was a primary reason I bought it, the previous owner undercoated and it worked. I'm under it regularly for oil changes so I always poke around a little, I like to monitor it for preventative maintanence. The only reason I mentioned the triangle plate is because its the only part of the frame that isn't, doesn't flex a milimeter but there isnt a spec of rubber on it.... Idk why, even if it needed to be replaced one could just carve the rubber off with a knife.... Done.

I think they're coating structural beams inside commercial buildings but I havent seen more than paint on a bridge... Usually they're galvanized but I dont know how deep that penetrates the surface of the parts, the friction on the threads could etch to steel for all I know.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Feb 17, 2019, 2:55 AM

Post #9 of 9 (148 views)
Re: What guage of steel are the body panels on an elantra? Sign In

Oxidization or corrosion brought on greatly by use of "Rock" salts. We (mankind) need dang steel and there are grades of it better or a coating you mentioned "galvanizing" now you've touched upon a sore spot. That was once a zinc and lead (chemical or the metal lead = PB) on a chart. OK, can't use that anymore so let stuff corrode.
High carbon steel all by itself is very resistant to rusting but too costly, uses energy to make it more than the junky stuff. Talk about we've (mankind again) biting itself in its own azz!
If you can keep air (that has oxygen in it) also the change of wet to dry with a corrosive agent (salt is corrosive) you win!
Notice the oil leaks the metal around area isn't rusted or corroded? We grease electrical connections on purpose or they wouldn't last a week.
Shoot - now what? Let's make alloys like aluminum doesn't rust and it doesn't. It's faster but don't call it rust now it's corroded look at where rubber on an alloy/aluminum rim of a wheel meet can't hold air anymore it's so porous! Just can't win.
Try as best you can it's an opinion of mine not more. QUIT USING DAMN ROCK SALTS! It's destroying everything not just vehicles. The roads, buildings, wreck plants and 1,000 other things I can't recall in a split second and we persist on using it? A biggie - it destroys water for drinking and plant life! Yikes what the hell are we doing?
Who needs wars and bombs just leave us (mankind again) alone we'll destroy ourselves without anyone's help.


OK - enough of the rant just some chat: I'm just N. of I-90 where it is 'burbs West of Boston the rusties spot in the world I think. Why? Because so dang many people are in a hurry in any weather (snow + ice included) to not be delayed by it for a few hours to clear it away then just drive accordingly (any vehicle that touches ground/surfaces) insist roads be just wet then dry out BUT right here the snow to the sides melts during the day turns to ice again so SALT it again and again! North of me they don't have to it stays colder. South of me doesn't snow or is usually far less so gone in a day or two. I'm f****ed where I am or don't use that vehicle - really.
So are you in Nebraska. Dang I-80 from Omaha to N. Platte is the way I commuted to Denver saw more of NE than most but from that highway. Endless farms essentially flat land so wind blows the snow back on roads easily salt it again and again too.


There's no easy answer or one that doesn't upset someone that you are ruining the earth but do it anyway or I'll be late??
If you use your vehicle in this and have to there's nothing known to me that will make it last indefinitely. As said I put my REAL vehicles away for this are like new now past 30 years old not a spot of rust but the one I use is always troubles.


NH = New Hampshire is just N. of MA used to spray oil underside of vehicles worked famously is now illegal. Guess falling bridges is OK though? Brake lines bust by surprise fuel leaks too even tanks in the ground can't take it now even made of plastics must be replaced on time schedule or dug out anyway if that area is used for anything else.


Can't win so what to you do? A. Your best. Wash off what you can and own or rent a garage for when it's not in use. Best if that's climate controlled too.


Just plan on losing the battle and need another vehicle periodically. Fix what is practical to squeeze out last years and know when the game is over and start all over again.


Sorry for this total novel it's been the way it is since forever for me except Colorado uses coal slag (the junk left when used) for both traction and it's dark so sun melts all ice left and the run off of it is edible thought even good for plant life and doesn't ruin water sources. Bought a Rambler (what are those you ask I can hear you) in Denver so old it was nuts had zero rust the sun ruined paint and all weather stripping not all was a rubber so old.


Again - good luck with your fix or finding out it's advanced in hidden spots. Keep it as long as you can I suggest don't waste too much $$ or effort on great looking work just make it strong so it will hold up for a while longer years or unknown how long that is?


This was fun - Tom







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