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Restoreing 1986 Mustang coup


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Carly86
New User

Jun 16, 2010, 4:59 PM

Post #1 of 7 (1839 views)
  post locked   post icon Restoreing 1986 Mustang coup  

Hey, I'm 16 and trying to restore my father's 1986 Mustang coup. The car has never been repainted or had any kind of major work on it. It was kept in pretty good condition, in a garage for many years. However the paint is peeling and the car now has some superfical rust on it, I would like to redo the paint my self but I don't know what I need or where to start. My questons are these:
1. What is the best way to strip the car of paint?
2. What do I use to take care of the rust?
3.What tools do I need to repaint the car?


I know that the car must be stripped and primed because I have done a little research. I don't want to watch my dad's car rott in my driveway anymore, I'd like to see it back to its original glory, so any help I could get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jun 16, 2010, 5:20 PM

Post #2 of 7 (1828 views)
  post locked   Re: Restoreing 1986 Mustang coup  

Prepping and painting a car is not something you learn how to do on the Internet. That is a talent that takes years to learn and hone. I suggest you just start saving you money and if the car is still around in a few years, get some estimates.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jun 17, 2010, 6:21 AM

Post #3 of 7 (1821 views)
  post locked   Re: Restoreing 1986 Mustang coup  

Totally agree with HT - save the money. You wouldn't have the place for final spraying never mind years of skills to prep it.

You can near stop the rust you can see with amazingly a water based "rust reformer" sold at many places and just scrape off loose rust and paint this stuff on rust - goes on as thick milk and turns black - becomes its own primer. Just use a small brush on only rust areas and it will help it from getting worse while you save up for the real job done professionally.

Product looks like this......



Read that it says "water clean up" and that's the one. This is about $10 and could make the final job easier and better.

Get estimates now on specifically how nice you want the finish job. The ads for the $200 paint job are real but would look like crap and makes it lots harder later if you want it right. Don't be fooled,

T



Sidom
Veteran / Moderator
Sidom profile image

Jun 17, 2010, 11:56 AM

Post #4 of 7 (1816 views)
  post locked   Re: Restoreing 1986 Mustang coup  

I agree with HT & Tom but I will add this....

Everyone has to start somewhere so it this is something you want to do, that's cool but its not something you can just go out & do. It would be the same as someone with no mechanical experiencing wanting to rebuid their engine. This is something you are going to have to develope. So if this is something you don't want to invest the time in, then it would be better to just let a shop take care of the body & paint work...

With painting cars everything is in the prep...You do a poor job preparing the car and the paint job will look like crap. All the rust needs to be removed, if it's bad enough then new panels need to be welded in. All the body work needs to be done (another skill that some just don't have). The whole car sanded, depending on the condition of the old paint is whether it has to go down to metal or not. Here to there are different ways to do this depending on how good you want the paint to look when you are done..

I've only done a little body work (and it looked a ocean when it was done) and shot just a few cars in my time so I'm probably not the best one here to teach this. But get some good back ground on this. It would help to take some classes at a community college or even work part time at a body shop. You could probably find just bare minimum online to get you started if you want to go by trial & error but if you are wanting a real nice looking paint job right now, it's just not going to happen but on the reverse if you put the work in on the prep and the paints today are easier to shoot than 20 years ago, you'll be happy with what you do.....There will be flaws & mistakes and will need to be redone but you'll be proud of your 1st car..

Just remember this.......It's 90% prep and rust never sleeps.






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Richard c
User

Jul 7, 2010, 10:34 PM

Post #5 of 7 (1785 views)
  post locked   Re: Restoreing 1986 Mustang coup  

That is all good info they have given you. The car doesn't need to be striped and primed. Paint sticks to paint better than paint sticks to primer. You do need to buzz the bad spots with an Orbital and for now 220 paper. Buy yourself and orbital sander. Prime the spots where you go through to the metal. Do a section at a time start to finish. Mask [tape and paper] before you prime, you don't want overspray on the chrome, glass or paint, remove the masking that day, don't let the tape dry and harden or you'll be sorry. You can use news paper for masking. After sanding and before priming you'll want to blow the dust off the area you've worked, than wipe it down with paint thinner before priming.

If you're going to paint the car you will need a compressor, paint gun and an obital sander to start.


Timthecarguy719
User

Apr 7, 2011, 5:13 PM

Post #6 of 7 (1583 views)
  post locked   Re: Restoreing 1986 Mustang coup  

Is it up to you on what goes on with it?
Just scuff the car up a bit with sand paper and take some black primer to it untill you can get the car restored or untill you have the stuff to do it.
Black primer looks better then nasty peeling rusty paint.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Apr 7, 2011, 6:17 PM

Post #7 of 7 (1580 views)
  post locked   Re: Restoreing 1986 Mustang coup  

Stop answering old questions



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.







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