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TravisH
User
Nov 16, 2016, 11:58 AM
Post #1 of 5
(3140 views)
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Thanks for getting back with Mr Greenleaf in regards to removal of an oil pan off of a 350 SBC in my 1976 Chevrolet p/u. Looks like I'll have to invest in a cheery picker now always having to buy a new tool it seems look for used one first. My other question was GM using composite timing gears in 1976 I know the name of the material just not sure of the spelling?
Thanks;
Travis
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 16, 2016, 12:21 PM
Post #2 of 5
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You are welcome. Could have kept this on same thread but let it be now for ideas on lifting this engine up enough.
Truck: I think 4 bolts and hood is off just "scribe" it at hinges so fits where it was easily. A chain fall you could use imagination with a very strong bar over it.
There are "engine hoists" that are hydraulic. Check what's rentable cheap or free sometimes?
Timing chain. DO NOT USE AN OE GM PLASTIC (MY TERM NOW) CAM GEARED ONE. Inexpensive all metal ones no tricks or other features. If doing oil pan you should NOT need the rubber front gasket if it uses that at all on the Chev real block timing cover - think it does.
Watch out lifting for radiator, pulling or bumping anything.
Other things should be obvious - unhook anything attached for wiring, fuel lines, rubber hoses etc to you are where you can just drop a pan down.
IMO - hard part can be aligning bolts to plain engine mounts on some if working alone which I do that part stinks for just replacements never mind moved or out,
T
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TravisH
User
Nov 16, 2016, 12:32 PM
Post #3 of 5
(3132 views)
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Busted timing chain if breaks and the engine won't start call yourself lucky. Figured after learning about extra work in getting oil pan off minus well take care off that timing gear and chain too. I know a fellow who can do a test to make sure of the amount of back lash that exist do that first before just tearing into the engine no sense in doing unnecessary work if one doesn't have to.
Thankyou;
Travis
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 16, 2016, 2:49 PM
Post #4 of 5
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Just about timing chain: The original MAY have had a white nylon outer tooth ring that either wore out fast and jumped or cracked off bits you'll now find in pan. IDK why but just a couple real Chevs were a problem most were a "real" Pontiac, Olds, Buick, and a couple Chryslers both the slant six and some V8s. Watch out as even then if it really broke some of these engine were still "interference" meaning valves could smash into pistons and I plead IDK which was all which as ones in my care were done pro-actively or when they got water pumps if at or around 100K you are mostly there.
It's not the world. Timing cover need to push down to line up these pins that have a name that escapes me now or wouldn't work out and leak.
Same with trans to engine. The bell housing has holes to line up with those dead alignment pins. Watch where you left position of engine compared to torque converter so that just lines up. If you box that unmatched you can start bolts and if you tighten it up and not lined up you'll damage things.
Hey - most stuff was junk early so less of this stuff unless very well cared for or rust not a factor. These took the cake for rust totally rendering them junk and running fine where I am in 10 years or less if driven on the dang salted roads the worst. Paint would blossom rust just anywhere some not painted behind nor even a primer otherwise great!
Take your time. A helper can be real handy just to push, pull and such not necessarily a mechanic just some help as you ask.
Watch out for heater hoses to heater core. Cut those with a razor and peel those off or you will bust the heater core.
All straight foreword just use you head, take your time.
Oh - no chance the exhaust is going to cooperate. PB nuts, bolts and connections now. If need be you'll need torches new flanges can be done without replacing pipe - ask as you go if you run into some of that I can help and maybe give parts #s of generic exhaust stuff.
Another one more with exhaust. I think heads have either bolts or studs thru exhaust manifold. If they do not cooperate cut off nuts on manifold and still get manifold off then deal with studs into head one by one - can be done even if a horror show!
Tom
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TravisH
User
Nov 16, 2016, 4:58 PM
Post #5 of 5
(3123 views)
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Thankyou, Mr Greenleaf for all your advice regarding oil pan and timing chain removal and replacement. Is there a timing gear and chain set manufacture that preferable over others I know of Cloval is a well known brand. Isn't there also a double roller chain and that's the one you want to use. That was smart advice on marking the hood to hinges. I'm studying all your advice and instructions very closely great advice. Salty roads in the winter can do real damage to a vehicles finish luckily especially around the wheel wells.
Thankyou:
Travis
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