|
|
1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
| |
|
TravisH
User
Dec 21, 2016, 4:54 PM
Post #1 of 13
(1667 views)
|
1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
I have an old chevrolet pick up it starts up as should the starter works fine but when warmed up to normal operating temperature the starter rotates slowly at first then kicks in as should. Looked at the wiring the battery terminals as should be. I'm just wondering if this truck might need a starter heat shield and how effective are these things. The starter does have a new solenoid on it that was a strange story I hadn't seen before. Thanks; Travis
|
|
| |
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 21, 2016, 5:40 PM
Post #2 of 13
(1662 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
There are a number of things that can cause that..........
- worn out starter
- poor cable connections
- low battery capacity
- insufficient battery cable size
- carbon buildup behind piston rings
- overheating engine
I don't believe they ever used a Chevy starter that didn't have a solenoid. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
TravisH
User
Dec 21, 2016, 7:20 PM
Post #3 of 13
(1643 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
It had a solenoid on it just replaced due to damage on the battery lead. The starter when removed looked fairly new but the damage I found might of caused internal damage that can't be seen by the naked eye and now just starting to show.
|
|
| |
|
Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 22, 2016, 5:29 AM
Post #4 of 13
(1625 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
That will also happen if you have too much ignition timing during starting. To verify disable the ignition when the truck is hot and see how the starter operates. If the starter works normally with the ignition disabled, more than likely you have too much spark advance. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Dec 22, 2016, 5:34 AM)
|
|
| |
|
TravisH
User
Dec 22, 2016, 4:38 PM
Post #5 of 13
(1601 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
Appreciate all of your help and plan to look into your recommendation regarding slow starter rotation once warmed up. Funny thing it only does it the second start up once warmed up and is the only time that I can tell. One thing that came to me is when I installed the heat riser tube back on from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner is when I first started noticing this. Once I do some back tracking and go through your advice I will let you know what shakes loose and discovered causing this. Thankyou; Travis
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 22, 2016, 6:11 PM
Post #6 of 13
(1596 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Starter
|
|
|
Travis - It's not that "heat" riser tube. The snorkel of air cleaner is just supposed to pick up warmer air sooner thru that when cold then switch to just air from under hood fairly quickly. This could be any of what's already listed. Most common and it's now so old be sure battery cables are proper especially at the battery side post eyelets. You must crack off if original the once soft rubber boots to look right at those eyelet ends. If replaced which is not surprising at the age (both pos, and neg.) check if large enough gauge. Know that real copper that would have been OE isn't easy to find or common and would likely be inferior real gauge effectiveness of the wires. Either one can be the weak link. Check ground bolt and eyelet of ground cable to engine block. I think on any V8 is on driver's side and might see it thru the wheel well. Just clean that up just because and grease it. Smile - get used to resetting clock and radio stations T
|
|
| |
|
TravisH
User
Dec 23, 2016, 4:58 PM
Post #7 of 13
(1575 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Starter
|
|
|
Sure enough your right about the battery cables the negative cable the insulation has broken lose from the eyelet. The positive has the copper clad aluminum junk. Checked with parts store they do have 4 gauge copper wire cable. One wrote in regarding my problem about carbon build up behind the piston rings I've heard of this but what can be done for this problem asking out of curiosity and a hypothetical. Thankyou; Travis
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 24, 2016, 12:35 AM
Post #8 of 13
(1570 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Starter
|
|
|
Never mind yet what it sold new I asked if the eyelet was any good. Is it? If not the OE cable MAY still be better to fix the end of THAN replace it totally - a call you make with observations. Engines can be harder for a starter and power from a battery to turn when warmed up than a REASONABLE cold because they are tight and reasons listed already. More power "delivered" from a battery that's know good enough or find out WHY it's so slow for another reason. Weak starter or engine carboned up are 2 reasons. It would have very high compression because the combustion area is occupied by carbon from unburned fuel. Once quite common for vehicles that just poked around and didn't get much highway use or worked harder in general you would assertively clear that out a couple ways: Drive it in the appropriate place from a stop and use wide open throttle up to a legal speed a few times you might even see the debris in your rear view mirror. Other is use of copious amounts of a carbon cleaning product SPRAYED down throttle body at the same time holding throttle high enough not to choke out doing that. You might see this problem as evidence on a spark plug or if you have a way to view inside a spark plug hole. A boroscope or fouled plug with build up on a spark plug itself is evidence. Also is higher vacuum readings than normal or higher compression testing that way. So far you nor I know if this is a cable, battery, starter or engine just so tight it hard to turn. If you can't rule some things out with tools you have to use this is all just guessing, T
|
|
| |
|
TravisH
User
Dec 26, 2016, 6:10 PM
Post #9 of 13
(1544 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Starter
|
|
|
Tom sorry I didn't understand your question regarding the battery cable eyelets. I have replaced the battery cable eyelets a while back with new ones the old ones were shot and giving me trouble. Thankyou; Travis
|
|
| |
|
dr.donut
User
Dec 26, 2016, 6:49 PM
Post #10 of 13
(1540 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
I had that problem with a few vehicles and it wasn't solved till I put in a higher quality starter that could "take the heat ", another vehicle had frayed batt cables at the terminal mounts , I soldered the end of the copper cable to make it solid so that it would not get mashed when clamped down in the connector , and made sure I wrapped it in either black or red tape . A bad connection makes resistance , resistance makes heat which makes more resistance , as the alternator is sending current to the batt when in use .
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 26, 2016, 11:14 PM
Post #11 of 13
(1519 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
Travis: Quote you ">>Tom sorry I didn't understand your question regarding the battery cable eyelets. I have replaced the battery cable eyelets a while back with new ones the old ones were shot and giving me trouble. Thankyou; Travis <<" OK: I mean the end of cables on GMs both ends of cables are really "eyelets" meaning just the end is a metal with a hole held by nut or bolts at battery. Now seems higher quality splice ends are available for those that really splice on new ones. They work a couple ways, either put a stripped end in the cable end and a screw really squishes it hard or others known to me as "temporary" ones are still one dollar things to fix ASAP a better way. The wire when clean should take solder and you get a pretty good 100% fix for this. The power delivered thru those cables is only as good as the weakest parts or either cable anywhere as the power must also return thru ground side. That and a known, charged good battery is just mandatory for about anything out there this old or new - same deal. How long stuff will last varies. You can extend life by preventing corrosion with greases or sprays of types meant for electrical things of the sort and get decades of trouble free connections. This part is as important as air in a tire or things aren't going anywhere, T
|
|
| |
|
TravisH
User
Jan 11, 2017, 4:22 PM
Post #12 of 13
(1472 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
Tom it's been awhile since I talked to you and others regarding my 1976 Chevrolet p/u. After doing some work on it seems to be running good now no delayed starting after warmed up. Between having bad battery cable terminals had those cheep replacment types I installed a while back since the old ones that were on it were shot. Thank all of you for your help and your advice. Thankyou; Travis
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 11, 2017, 4:36 PM
Post #13 of 13
(1469 views)
|
Re: 1976 Chevrolet Truck Stater
|
|
|
Sounds like you are all set now so can close out this thread. Lesson learning is the cheap fix cable ends about always fail once sold for emergency or temporary use till whole cables could be installed. Any moderator can re-open thread upon request, T
|
|
| |
|