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Brake rotor wear Sign up here! Search this forum this category all forums for All words Any words Whole Phrase (search options) Auto Repair Home>> Automotive Repair>> Tricks of the Trade zmasterflex User May 24, 2010, 4:38 PM Post #1 of 3 (6763 views) Brake rotor wear Sign In 2007 Nissan Murano S AWD 70k. Changing my friends brakes (front and rear). Upon visual inspection both front and rear pads seem to be between 80-90 percent wear. The front rotors look completely smooth but the rear rotors have a tiny tiny groove on the outside section of the rotor right off of the rim. Is there standard "bad rotor" picture so I can ignore this groove? These rotors are quite thin to begin with and replacements are 55 bucks each for this car. I plan on putting on thermoquiets because all the standard chain store garbage brakes with their lifetime warrantees are eating up my rotors left (and right). any advice would be much appreciated thanks. Hammer Time Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator May 24, 2010, 5:07 PM Post #2 of 3 (6753 views) Re: Brake rotor wear Sign In It is never OK to ignore rotors when doing a brake job. The only decision should be whether they get resurfaced or replaced. The visual thichness of the rotor means nothing. They need to be measured and if they have never been cut before, they are likely resurficeable. The old rotors have worn to the shape of the old pads and will not have a good enough surface for the new pads. You will not only see inadequate braking but noises will be a problem. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional. Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator May 25, 2010, 5:59 AM Post #3 of 3 (6748 views) Re: Brake rotor wear Sign In Agreed - you really can't ignore rotors with pad replacement. Groove alone isn't the issue so much as thickness and uniformity of the surface which simply won't be perfect without turning them but the problem with that is it costs to turn them and hence the thickness is less again making them subject to premature warping. Many do give you tons of extra metal from new. Some can't take one turning and be legal thickness some can. Granted, everyone wants to save a buck but this isn't a good place to save. Life of the job and performance will pay off the costs of going new minus not having to pay to turn them. Now you have the issue of used pads and they are partly (most likely) on their way to conforming to the irregular pattern of old rotors so you are wasting $ in the course of trying to save some IMO. Here are new specs for new rotors. Old ones should have a mark for minimum thickness on them. Rears shown first then fronts, Pics may not show. Rear thickness should show 16.1mm, fronts 28mm, The cost of not stopping properly can be catastrophic of course, T (This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on May 25, 2010, 6:02 AM)   Automotive Repair     Auto Body Repair and Refinishing     Heating or AC Issues     Electrical and Wiring     Brake Systems     Car Stereo Repair Advice     General Discussions     Car Making Funny Noises     Engine Fault Codes     Engine Troubles     Exhaust Systems     Steering and Suspension     Transmission Troubles     Tricks of the Trade Automotive World     General Discussions     Antique Car Talk     Car Shows and Events     The Bargin Bin     Motor Vehicle Inspection     Car Care Tips     Traffic Tickets     Gasoline, Motor Oils, Concept Cars and Engines     Auto Insurance, Financing, Leases, Warranties Truck Repair     General Discussions     Truck Engine Repair     Truck Suspension Repair Motorcycle Repair     General Discussions     Motorcycle Engine Repair CarJunky     Open Posting     Board FAQ's     New Board Suggestions

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