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J.C.
New User
Jun 27, 2017, 3:18 PM
Post #1 of 8
(2990 views)
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I own a 1963 Ford Ranchero. Powered by a 170 inline six cylinder engine.Transmission is a three speed manual with column shift.
I can't seem to keep gear oil in the transmission. It continuously drips from the rear of the transmission extension housing. I've had the transmission off, clutch components are fine. I did replace the throw bearing and a worn pilot bushing. I also replaced the drive shaft yoke as it had some wear from the yoke bushing, replaced that bushing and lastly the rear oil seal on the extension housing.I put the proper amount of gear oil in and new gaskets for the transmission vent plate and ext.housing to trans.connection and used thread sealer where needed. All this and still can't contain the gear oil. any ideas to keep my Ranchero from being a gross polluter? Engine runs fantastic and I want to continue with body and paint!
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 27, 2017, 3:39 PM
Post #2 of 8
(2981 views)
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I moved your question into the transmission category where it will get the attention of the right people.
Just an obvious question, Could you be overfilling it?
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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J.C.
New User
Jun 28, 2017, 10:36 AM
Post #3 of 8
(2948 views)
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If anything I put in a bit less than the shop manual suggests
The shop manual specs 2 1/2 pints. I put in 1 qt.
The extension Housing is supposed to get some lubricant.
The bushing at the drive shaft yoke has an oil groove machined in a
X" pattern on the inside wall. That bushing installs just inside the oil seal.
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J.C.
New User
Jun 28, 2017, 10:39 AM
Post #4 of 8
(2944 views)
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I installed the seal correctly. May be a soft spot in the diameter of the seal?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2017, 10:40 AM
Post #5 of 8
(2942 views)
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All true. Just noting that an over filled system will push it right out.
You need to look at the fit of the driveshaft into the seal and bushing and whether the shaft has any vibration or wobble issues.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 28, 2017, 12:41 PM
Post #6 of 8
(2939 views)
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Where's Gary? OP - do you mean the X patterned "bushing" is riding on the rubber of the seal? If that's a sleeve to make up for a worn part it just might either not seal on inside or if you put this seal in totally dry it can't take that. It's meant to actually seep just a drop a year type thing to lube it.
Pretty sure OE seal had a pretty strong spring inside rubber to hold it tight but new could be just double lipped.
In short if it's exposed and that bushing is a repair for wear and rides on seal the crosshatches are to make sure it's damp with oil. If leaking inside that to out you would seal it if a patch for a worn shaft type thing. OMG - it's plenty old enough for some long sitting time and OE seal wore into what it rides on? Know exactly where it's leaking if what I'm thinking it could be fooling you?
T
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J.C.
New User
Jun 29, 2017, 12:01 AM
Post #7 of 8
(2925 views)
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New yoke, new yoke bushing, new seal.
yoke bushing is original equipment. It installs down in from the front of the extension housing and seats just before the seal.
Maybe I need to find a OE seal. The one I purchased is indeed double lipped and would definitely be inferior.
And yes the whole car is worn. I was thrown for the fact that these cars have a transmission alignment procedure outlined in the shop service manual. Shimming the bell housing at the block? Can the housings actually warp?
Or get bent? What causes a misalignment situation? Bell housings are aluminum!The 3 speed trans. does not weigh enough to present a possible shifting drive line off center!
Could be an impact from a collision? Or a uni body problem? Any thoughts?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 29, 2017, 12:52 AM
Post #8 of 8
(2923 views)
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Limited for me as this is a "Ranchero" not sure what is 100% unique to it vs a Falcon it really is. Owned that exact car (sedan) but it wasn't old then!
Seals: OE could have been leather for all I know wouldn't be any good new in a box now. The smooth parts of shafts with seals don't like sitting - any rust just a few months then sliding into that area with the seals they'll fail.
I'm not sure we are on the same page with this bushing? I was thinking of a sleeve used as a fix probably a bronze to cover over worn area of a shaft when a seal made a divot in the shaft of anything.
I can't know overall condition of this thing or what it's been thru how long ignored and how many things have already been done maybe a couple times or more?
Body should be good if not bent or rusted that unit body was first used in 1960 I think then used for the 1964+1/2 Mustang! Kept using it even with some pretty wild engines.
Just for now why not replace the seal. Bring old one despite new doesn't matter bet it's torn. Lube up the new one or you'd tear it right away. If with a spring pack that in grease so it wont fall out.
This is crude at things go not IMO top shelf but OMG the "three on the tree" shift vehicles were everywhere no synchro for first gear had to know how to do that or stop.
YOU have to determine if driveline is bent or out of whack - no telling what it's been thru.
FYI - Have the "Pro" edition of Chiltons will cover this trans with complete blow ups of every clip and gasket about it. Of course a paper book heavy and not sure would fit on a scanner and show up rather a picture and camera I don't own a good enough one to post the total blow up of this thing.
IDK - I can go look it up and see what is likely for the trouble but would put a new seal in just anyway about now. Use grease and on metal outside must use the brown shellac now called Permatex Gasket sealer/maker is it isn't - it's brush in cap thick molasses type stuff seals threads and these things too all over vehicles of the vintage and later too,
T
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