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rusted chassis bolts


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autonurse
User

Jun 4, 2013, 9:02 AM

Post #1 of 10 (2358 views)
post icon rusted chassis bolts Sign In

Mitsubishi 2003 outlander 2.4 SOHC 135,000 miles, repairing the "dog bone" rear control arm links this is where the camber is adjusted. cannot get bolts out they are rusted into the bushings dont want to strip bolts. I have a heavy duty impact gun 1000ft ibs of torque. at what point do you give up and cut them out and what is best way? especially to save the bolts if possible? Thanks


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 4, 2013, 10:02 AM

Post #2 of 10 (2345 views)
Re: rusted chassis bolts Sign In

Glowing heat from Oxy/Acet torches but WARNING of flammable things, gas and brake parts, rubber, greases etc. if close and know that heat to glowing destroys the intended strength of parts if reused know which ones need to be tossed for proper new. IF IN DOUBT GET HELP. Dealing with rust isn't about force of the tools so much as getting them apart so you can work with what's left - all caution with this! Things can break from just the rust without you noticing how bad it got and this can and will cause loss of control of the vehicle if things let go so pay attention!

T



Hammer Time
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Jun 4, 2013, 12:06 PM

Post #3 of 10 (2336 views)
Re: rusted chassis bolts Sign In

That bolt has a rubber bushing in it so if you plan on using a torch, and you may have to, plan on replacing that bar.



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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 4, 2013, 1:56 PM

Post #4 of 10 (2330 views)
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If that rusted I would toss it all. Another way but look carefully at what you are doing is to tighten a bolt till it breaks off clean - not for a blind hole threaded for the bolt but a thru bolt and knock it thru with a punch.

Idea for if this side is in trouble now to either do the other or get some PB on it now and plan on that too. Rust is either just sticky things like that or so bad it can get like a cracker that you can mush up in your hand - not safe and vehicles get scrapped over it if extensive enough,

T



autonurse
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Jun 4, 2013, 5:10 PM

Post #5 of 10 (2314 views)
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thank you!! from autonurse


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 4, 2013, 5:41 PM

Post #6 of 10 (2307 views)
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If I ever moved up north, this thing would definitely be in my tool box.









Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 4, 2013, 5:47 PM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 5, 2013, 3:00 AM

Post #7 of 10 (2293 views)
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Neat tool DS. The "North" isn't so bad just because of latitude it's road salts still commonly used. It's mostly plain calcium chloride but very high 'salinity' vs even ocean water at given times so it gets dumped on heavy.

Just recently a 2002 F150, looking clean until you looked underneath a front wheel pulled right out of the frame tilting right over and declared salvage as a vehicle!

This salt is and already has taken out bridges, re-bar inside cement of structural things that get exposed to it. Why it's still used escapes me as it's so destructive. There are several places North or not that don't allow its use at all and the much colder areas North of say the I-80/I-90 corridor in the US it is too cold for salts to work so rust is much less!

For vehicles the parts aren't just stuck they are unrecognizable sometimes. You just whack an area and get showered with crumbs/flakes of rust to expose the head of a nut or bolt if only that to find it isn't a size or hex anymore at all!

Some pics anyone can find out there of what it does and not rare........

That one you can just cut off and punch that bolt thru or it would come off if glowing hot but the rubber would be junk and bolt NFG of course.


Great - that one someone got a new bolt in but look at the frame! That weak section would be fixed if/when noticed.

Torque box areas and the strong spots for unibody are not exempt at all either......


Where do you place a jack stand on that?

I've beat this subject up many times and when someone mentions a battle always wonder how bad things really are, a pest or a lost cause?

Tom



MarineGrunt
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Jun 6, 2013, 4:33 AM

Post #8 of 10 (2280 views)
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In Reply To
If I ever moved up north, this thing would definitely be in my tool box.





What the heck is that thing? It looks like some sort of an electric heating element? I've been very fortunate over the years with rusted bolts. There hasn't been one that I was able to get and that's without an oxy/acetylene torch. I have used mapp gas a few times. The only impact I have is a 1/2 drive Craftsman so it's not very powerful. I would guess maybe 300-400 ft lbs. There have been times I used a 6 ft. cheater though. This isn't counting rusted out exhaust bolts though. I have had to cut those before but used a grinder with a cutoff or a sawzall. Most of the vehicles I've worked on haven't been older than probably 10 years old though. I did own a 1983 C-10 back in 2000 though but didn't have to do much work on it. I think the power steering pump was the only repair I did. Maybe one day I'll run into some more rusted bolts if I ever breakdown and buy a Chevelle or Nova. I've always wanted to restore one.


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 6, 2013, 4:59 AM

Post #9 of 10 (2272 views)
Re: rusted chassis bolts Sign In

They found it at the Roswell crash site, so they reversed engineered it and now selling it to the public.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YO_snrzYrs





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 6, 2013, 4:59 AM)


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Jun 6, 2013, 5:52 AM

Post #10 of 10 (2269 views)
Re: rusted chassis bolts Sign In

Here's the instruction manual





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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.







 
 
 






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