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southensoldier
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Jun 9, 2008, 5:05 PM
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No power on AC cluster
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I have a 92 Honda Accord, I recently change the temperature sensor and when I started the car up the ac cluster did not lite up. I turn the knob to on, but the ac/heater did not blow. The compressor does kicks on, but still it seems as though no power is going to the cluster. Even the rear window defrost will not power up/ no power. None of the lights on the ac/heater cluster comes on. No power is present. I also notice that the abs light now stays on. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 9, 2008, 9:38 PM
Post #2 of 8
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Re: No power on AC cluster
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Start with testing all fuses by test light not just appearance, T
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southensoldier
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Jun 10, 2008, 1:55 AM
Post #3 of 8
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Re: No power on AC cluster
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I tested the fuses with a light and all are good. The only fuses I didn't test, but they appear to be good are the large fuses with the clear tops that are screwed in.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 10, 2008, 2:05 AM
Post #4 of 8
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Re: No power on AC cluster
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Gotta check those too. They should just push in?? T
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southensoldier
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Jun 10, 2008, 7:07 PM
Post #5 of 8
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Re: No power on AC cluster
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The fuse I'm referin to are the 30 amp - 80 amp fuse that have a screw on both ends to hold them in. They are not broken. How to test them to be for sure, I dont know.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 11, 2008, 12:15 AM
Post #6 of 8
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Re: No power on AC cluster
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If you can't test them in place then remove them as if they were blown and test for power on one side and continuity thru fuse as you would any other. A lot of items are out at once suggesting a common power or ground to the all as the fault, T
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southensoldier
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Jun 15, 2008, 3:17 PM
Post #7 of 8
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Re: No power on AC cluster
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I tested the fuses and replaced the ones for the rear defrost and blower just to be on the safe side. now what..
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 15, 2008, 4:23 PM
Post #8 of 8
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Re: No power on AC cluster
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![](http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u177/SynForumPhotos/9295HoodFuse.jpg) With a test light - know good fuse or not the place it goes or the fuse/relay if possible must light up the test light. If no power get's to the fuse then the problem is before it gets there and after the fuse if it does have power. Above stuff is the best I could find. Owner's manual will probably discuss in more detail what fuse, fusible links perhaps, or what is in line for the items that don't work now. ABS light will come on in cars when not getting current among other reasons. When known that 12v power is there then there's the chance that grounding is a problem and can be tested using a test light/circuit tester backwards (empowered at alligator clip will light up on grounds)..... Add gound with a jumper wire to known body metal ground to things that might be used for common grounds like the metal that supports stuff in the dash. Grounds can be tricky. Battery ground goes to engine block and either directly from battery or from block to body would use a ground wire/strap and those are places throught a car as needed to bolster grounds. In all this fun you end up testing the test light each time too with knowns so you know it's still connected pos or neg as needed for testing. Every item that uses 12v power starts and ends back at the battery. The 10 miles of wire throughout the car is there to make it fun to chase down. In short (no pun) you have to verify how far things are empowered and grounded and look where it's missing either, T
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