Checking for evaporator leak can be done two ways. Check where condensate drains out for oilyness which shouldn't be there. Best is to use an electronic leak sniffer and there should be none coming out of vents. Compressor can show leaking by oil between clutch and front of compressor or the sniffer again.
These cars are famous for evaporator leaks and you won't be happy about the cost of replacement or the time it can take to do that.
Get some gauges and check for pressures. Even a cheap low side only will at least give you a static pressure and if there's less than ambient temp F. than the pressure this system will need the work and not just charging to work.
For the smell they make deodorizer to spray where air comes in by wipers and in vents and can try something like Lysol which can work. If real moldy you about have to take out whole distribution box and clean it all up. A dead critter could be the problem too and hard to find. If evidence of nest making under the hood that's likely.
They sell sealants that could stop the leak but I don't recommend their use unless you want one last cheap try as it can cause problems and will void warranties on components if found.
You could just add some UV dye and look for leaks all over. You can see some with dye without a UV light and if doing with a UV light do it where it's somewhat dark for best detection.
The "check engine problem" -- After looking at that light for so long you probably have killed cat converters to add to the expense.
Think about the expense (thousands possible) and whether to fish or cut bait with this,
T
Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest Boston - USA
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http://www.autoacsystems.com/tomgreenleaf/
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