Cap can be tested by the pressure testing kits that I think you can rent now at places like AutoZone - I don't think that's the issue at all. If you can feel any pressure in a hose from when cap was off the cap probably is working pressure release wise.
Still think you have air to get out. The flushing being clean is a good sign. Air can be a nightmare with some cars. When you fill it best you can thru cap if on radiator, highest hose if need be, open any bleeder if the high point till coolant comes out you would think it would be close enough but you are saying heater doesn't work so obviously not.
That is very likely vapor, air, but not liquid going thru the lines.
I said before if you notice it pressure up fast from cold that's too fast - hard to define that. Remove cap if known to hold pressure when warmer but BE WICKED CAREFUL ABOUT THAT!!!! and put it back on. If it pressures up again right away there's just combustion gasses likely getting into cooling system - that is usually caused by a gasket leak any that are sealing exhaust gasses or combustion gasses from cooling system. Usually a head gasket. It can be a tough call and usually you see bubbles or recovery tank fill right up time after time. Diag that well as it's a lot of work to be wrong there and this could still be a purging problem.
Some purging tricks are to get it as full as you can by all means. Warm it up just till you know thermostat is open. Shut down - it actually warms up a tad when first shut down and tilt the car such that the radiator cap or best fill spot is the highest within some sane angle. If that helps and it start to do better - heat works then it should finish itself by driving, stop and cool drive again, keep checking level at tank. At some point just the recovery tank shout get the air to tank and return only liquid and it's DONE!
T
Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest Boston - USA
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http://www.autoacsystems.com/tomgreenleaf/