I own a 1989 Honda accord dx 3 door hatchback. The car was $1400 and I knew there would be risks buying any used car but it just had a tuneup and only 70000 miles, so i bought the car. recently came accross a few things not to big like he took the muffler off (to make it sound better he says..RIGHT) and the pipe coming from the catilac convertor had a huge hole in it so i bought a new exhaust system for it purrs like a kitten now! but for my most recent problem my clutch is sticking to the floor! its annoying as hell i cant reverse some times because i might not get the clutch to pop back up. my only way around it is if i open the hood and push a metal arm downwards thats connested to a link of some sort. i think its the cable link to the engine but im not sure.

anyone else have a simaler problem or got suggestions please write me, thanks.

Check that the clutch cable isn’t beginning to seize; disconnect it at the trans and it should move relatively easy.
If it’s free, then it might be the bushing(s) in the transmission case for the lease shaft that are seizing. If so, it’ll likely mean pulling the trans; removing this shaft; cleaning or replacing these bushings.
Not a great diagram; it doesn't show the bushings but I hope it gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.



Dan.

Canadian "EH"

i have seen the little "keeper" springs that hold the "throw-out" (also called the release) bearing to the pivot arm come loose and the bearing will twist sideways on the arm locking the thing down. refer to the diagram you'll see the ears that can lock. also if the clutch was installed recently it may have been a remanufactured unit. remanufactured clutch assemblies do not work or will not work for any length of time in hondas or toyotas. it has to do with the specifications on distance between the "pressure plate" and the flywheel. reman units have been machined down to smooth them and consequently most of the specified distance is lost in the process. this means the ;life of the "new" reman clutch; although within specifications per the manufacturer; is about half or less that of a new unit.
i am in agreement that the first thing to look into is the cable...disconnect it at the arm on the trans (you'll need to loosen it by unscrewing the nut on the underside of the arm - the nut screws onto the cable itself) have someone inside the car operate the clutch pedal while you hold the cable out (watch and don't let your fingers get pinched as the cable moves in and out of it's housing) it should feel smooth as it slides in and out. any "raspiness" or catches you might "feel" happening indicate a cable that is frayed inside the housing and the whole cable assembly must bve replaced. an easy job with the only difficult part being the adjustment after the new one is installed or the old one tests good and you need to re-adjust. to adjust it simply tighten the nut back up onto the cable (being sure not to let it slip out of the slot in the arm while doing so) unti.l you have about 1.5" to 2" of free travel in the clutch pedal from the top to where you feel resistance of the clutch beginning to engage. hope this helps, rick

ok i went and poked around and i know its not the link its the arm thing it sticks ima put some pics up when i can to show my exact problem.