Ok, sounds like it's time to go back to basics. if it is "cutting out" at any speed or rpm you might have an electrical problem that is disguising itself as a fuel problem. my next step would be to get the coil pack and module assembly off the donor car and put it on. Understand, of course, that none of your donor car's parts are "known good". over the years i have learned that even new is not spelled the same as good. it may be that the tps from the donor car is breaking up at a different place than your car. think of the tps just like a volume control on a radio. it is simply a variable resister that is controlable by you. if the "windings" inside have a break then your volume will get scratchy at that point...same thing happens to it's signal to your car's computer. you also have a crank sensor on this engine that could be faulty at a certain rpm. it is located next to the front crank pulley and is fairly easy to change out. it may help if i explain the function of each of the sensors in plain english. the map is almost exclusively an idle control device. it changes variances in manifold pressures into electrical signals that help the computer control idle quality only. the O2 sensor function is to tell the computer how much fuel to feed the engine at most any speed but is usually only noticeable at idle when refering to quality of engine running (or so that you notice a difference in the way the engine sounds) the O2 sensor sends a varying voltage signal to the computer from .1volt to .9 volt; with .1 being lean fuel mix and .9 or above being rich. I explained the tps except that it sends a varying voltage signal ranging from about 1 to about 5 volts with one volt being idle and 5 volts being wot or wide open throttle. The tps normally takes over for the O2 and MAP in above idle situations. your crank sensor simply tells the coil packs when to fire-it takes the place of the distributor. it uses a magnet to detect exactly where #1 cylinder is at in it's stroke and sends a signal to the coil pack module when #1 reaches (basically) top dead center and the module fires the right coil at the right time depending on load and speed requirements of the engine. The IAC is simply that: idle air control- it controls idle speed only; nothing else.
Worst case and weirdest case scenerio would be the ECM breaking down at around the speed or RPM you are talking about and shutting off the fuel; probably injector pulse section.
you indicate the problem is only at higher rpm"s and idle seems to be fine. So, the thing to do is re-read this and concentrate on only those items which come into play at higher rpm's. tps,ignition module, coil packs, crank sensor, fuel pressure regulator(which could possibly be malfunctioning even without leaking-possibly due to a small hole in the vacuum hose which opens up under high vacuum situations only). This is a rather simple computer control system that has specific control functions; so once you understand which sensors do what and when (which i have basically explained here) then you can pretty much pinpoint any problem. all voltages can be measured useing a DVOM and backprobing connectors to read voltages. the only real thing you must be careful of is the high voltages in the spark plug wires/coils...they pack quite a wallop!
after re-reading this and both of your posts i am inclined to believe that you should change out the coil pack assembly - which is the thing your spark plug wires attach to on the side of the engine. that is the one thing that keeps jumping out at me. also you might locate the crank sensor and make sure it is not loose and moving even slightly on it's mount bolts...let me know, rick
(This post was edited by brbettge on Apr 11, 2008, 7:12 AM)