My 2001, V10 F250 has developed a "creaking" sound in the rear. Happens when brakes are applied, traveling over a bumpy road, and when turning. Seems to be coming from the right rear. The brakes work fine, no problem with the steering, doesn't pull to either side when braking or driving.

In December, the tread separated from my left front time and broke the ABS cable/wiring. I talked to two mechanics when it first happened and asked them if I could get away with not fixing the ABS for a while. (I was/am seriously broke) They said I would probably notice a difference in my brakes on wet pavement and I should watch for tire wear, but other than that there shouldn't be any big problem. I haven't noticed the brakes working any different on wet pavement than on dry and the tires don't show any wear. This creaking thing didn't start until a couple of weeks ago.

The truck has 60,355 miles on it. Most driving is done on paved roads, but two days a week I go down non-paved roads and have to go thru 3 or 4 low water crossings. The water is about 4-6 inches deep.

A friend of mine has a rack we can put the truck on and I just got new ABS wiring, so we are going to (hopefully) get that fixed next week. I am now worried about this creaking. Is it related to the ABS or something entirely different?

Any help will be greatly appreciated!


thanks
llanago

(This post was edited by llanago on Mar 14, 2008, 8:39 AM)

The creaking noise is more than likely the pads....you need to inspect the rotors too, one sign is the rotors having a mirror-like surface on them and the same on the pads.

Guesses: It's not the ABS wiring itself. Brakes perhaps. Does this use leaf springs in the back - if so oil them in between leafs - origs would have plastic that doesn't last. Water wash outs are nasty to calipers, u-joints. Should be guarded but also check gear cases for water. 4X4s should use a tall tube higher than cases to prevent water but who knows?

T
Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest Boston - USA
_________________________________________

http://www.autoacsystems.com/tomgreenleaf/

This could be in left field ,I don't know but I thought I'd offer it anyway..
I know from being at GM we would have concerns with noise that would end up being body related,especially the trucks with the body movements and such...
Here is a bulletin from Ford...Look into it..maybe?..maybe not?..hope it helps...

Let us know...

Article No.
02-3-5
02/18/02
BODY NOISE: SQUEAK OR BIND FROM TAILGATE>
^


FORD:
1997-1998 F SUPER DUTY
1997-2002 F-150, RANGER
1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit a "Squeak" or Bind condition of the Tailgate. This may be caused by the grease on the tailgate hinges that may wash out prematurely causing a squeak or binding condition. ACTION
Verify condition. Apply Silicone grease to correct the condition. Refer the the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Remove tail gate from the vehicle. 2. Remove plastic inserts from tail gate hinge cups. 3. Clean inside of hinge cups.
4. Apply grease (use only XG-3), to all inside surfaces of right and left side hinge cups and right and left side body side pins (Figure 1) and re-install plastic inserts into tail gate. 5. Reinstall the tail gate

Thanks Dave, Tom and Jim

but who knows?

Rotors, calipers, u-joints, leaf springs - Not me, that's for sure! LOL! I can change the oil and filter, check the radiator, change a flat and put gas in it, but that's about all. Women just don't learn much about cars/trucks, but I'm learning as the need arises. May not be able to fix this problem myself, but will at least have a bit of knowledge if I have to discuss it with a mechanic.

I did find out today that my favorite mechanic, whom I trust, is back in business, so if I do have to take it in, I know he won't put the screws to me. The mechanic gods are looking out for me.

Interesting about the tailgate. Reminded me that I have been needing to work on the latch on mine. Gets harder and harder to open.

Noticed this AM, there was no creaking! It was damp - heavy fog. We haven't had any rain since the creaking started and I was surprised when there was no creaking this morning. Don't know if that makes a difference or not, but thought I would mention it.

Also forgot to mention in my first post that I have a 5th wheel hitch. Don't think that would make any difference, but could it be the rails need lubricated?

Okay, last question. I'm going to buy either a Haynes or Chilton repair manual. Which one is would be the best and easiest for me to understand? And, of course, pictures are a girl's best friend when learning something new.

Thanks again!

The fact that this is quiet now when damp is interesting and points to something that is lubricated just by the damp weather/rain even. The tailgate parts Jim mentioned AND all the things where the gate contacts the body of the bed should just plain be lubed. Much of this you could and should do yourself. There are lots of things throughout a vehicle that need to hinge, pivot or just move some with body to frame torque (bending/twisting) and parts that "hang" the exhaust etc., etc. The above pic is an assortment of items used.

You said you noticed the tail gate was getting more difficult.... great place to start!

I would get yourself some WD-40 (I like that by brand name) - some spray, white lithium grease, spray silicone, and a plain old oiler like in a can available at any decent auto parts or even general stores like Wally World.

I'd (and I do with all my own stuff) go around and spray the parts that move with the lighter sprays first. Heavier metal items that are strong hinging I finish with the spray grease. Do this to all the things you can find using care not to spray on hot parts, or parts that you don't want messy, painted parts that can be seen might react to some lubes so careful there, DON'T SPRAY ON BRAKE FRICTION SURFACES, but keep looking for all the locks, hinges (doors, hood, tailgate etc.,) all around the vehicle.

Just for laughs I'd do the tailgate first and see if that isn't the immediate culprit - dang well could be. Spray the WD-40 inside the latches in the cracks and the center handle on the gate - really get some up, over and around in there and the tabs that lock it shut. Those can be a problem and don't latch after a while and sometimes need to take things apart to lube things.

As for manuals: Last time ( ages now ) I checked them out they were mostly basic and lacked exacting details but all had some good universal reading. Perhaps a library or book store would have some copies to peruse to save on some waste for exactly what suits you. Lots can be found on the web and there are sites like this for specific questions and problems (of course this is the best!) for close to live help as in here which is a fading thing on the web it seems.

Side note: Mechanical aptitude is NOT gender biased by nature!

T
Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest Boston - USA
_________________________________________

http://www.autoacsystems.com/tomgreenleaf/

Thanks Tom,

I assume the pics are of rotors, calipers, u-joints, leaf springs? Now when I get up underneath the truck and look around and see them, I will at least know the proper terms rather than calling them a do-hickey or thing-ma-jig.

WD-40 - who can live without WD-40 and duct tape? Already have white lithium grease and silicone spray. Use those on the RV. Oiler can going on my WalMart list.

I'm pretty sure Louis is not going to let me work on the ABS sensor when we have it up on the rack. He loves workin' on cars and doesn't really have the patience to just watch me do it. So, I can watch and learn. He might let me do some of the lube stuff. I know I can use the rack anytime I want to, so I will have to just pick a day when he's not there and I can spend as much time as I want piddling around and learning.

Mechanical aptitude is NOT gender biased by nature!

I love fixing things. I put a new alternator in my old Dodge truck a number of years ago. Had NO idea how to do that, but got tired of waiting for my brother in law to do it, so just crawled under the truck and tried figured out what I needed to do. To be honest though, I don't think anybody could have been more surprised than me when I turned the key and it actually started. Of course, the truck was an older model with no computer.

Thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate it. This is a great forum. It is in my favs and I have already read a number of threads.

You may want to check this out. I have a few I have purchased from there and they work. You will probably need to change date on the computer when you use them as thay ate time sensitive.




http://www.publicsurplus.com/...owse/cataucs?catid=4 <<< Click on link and see our surplus vehicles for sale.
Being way2old is why I need help from younger minds.

Good one way2old. IIanago-- A neat tool to match part names and pics is using the "google images" spot which you should bookmark. Here's an example of a rotor, caliper and brake pads installed for instance.......

the caliper is red in this pic, the pads are a gold color and the rotor here is new but the area where the gold Pads contact the rotor are the friction areas I mentioned NOT to get lubes on. I'll have to come back on edit for some other examples....
Here is a pic of typical leaf springs. Your truck may use coils and not these. These can squeek between the leaves on some. The coil type don't make much noise.....

This is a typical coil spring for automotive use.

This is a great way to match up terms used that you don't know and put a pic to them. That only took me a few minutes to find and you can do that too if it helps and ask away if something is still unsure.

Go get em kid

T
Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest Boston - USA
_________________________________________

http://www.autoacsystems.com/tomgreenleaf/


(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Mar 15, 2008, 6:02 PM)

Wanted to says THANKS again to all for the help.

I ended up taking the truck to my mechanic to take care of the ABS. Just couldn't get the timing right between my friend and I to put it up on his rack and I have to be inspected by next Monday.

He did the computer diagnostic thing and said all is good. Also checked all over underneath for what might be causing all the creaking and if it needed to be lubed.
Saw no problem and didn't need another lube job. He said he is almost sure the creaking is the 5th wheel hitch. Said it could possibly be the tailgate, but really didn't think so.

I have planned to take the hitch out for months, just haven't been able to round up the man-power on a nice day to do it. Maybe since spring is here, I can finally get it done.

Have decided I am going to sell or trade this big gas hog in as soon as I get the hitch out. Not doing any traveling anymore, so don't really need this much truck to go back and forth to work. The gas is killin' me!

Thanks again!
llana