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John Otte
New User
Jan 14, 2014, 8:00 PM
Post #1 of 3
(1834 views)
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Starting problem
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I have a 91 Chevy S-10 with a 2.5 4 cylinder, wouldn't start the other day, put my hand down at coil & pushed on wiring where it plugged in & then tried starting it & it started right up , 2 days later went to start again. & it wouldn't start again no matter what I pushed on, I checked for fire at #1 plug wire while cranking it & it had no power, my question is, how do I figure out if it's distributor or coil that's bad ?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 15, 2014, 2:40 AM
Post #2 of 3
(1814 views)
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Re: Starting problem
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Not sure exactly what you pushed on that seemed to instantly work but that's where to look. IMO more likely a connection problem right there than a failure of parts but look inside distributor cap for flaws and clean up low voltage connections is suspect or that is what you pushed on?
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 15, 2014, 3:44 AM
Post #3 of 3
(1811 views)
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Re: Starting problem
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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