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1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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S-10 4.3
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Jan 20, 2009, 5:30 AM
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1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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1990 chev S-10 4.3 v6, automatic, 2 wheel drive, 220,000 miles on engine. no check engine code or light
rescently replaced distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires.
the fuel injectors are spraying fuel into the throttle body just fine.
i hooked up a timing light to the spark plug wire going to cyl #1. it flashes.
there is power going to the ecm, tps, and the idle air control valve.
a couple days ago it started but was bogging down so bad i couldn't barely back it out of the garage so i didn't have the exhaust filling up the garage while i was trying to look at it.
I then removed then removed the idle air controll valve and sprayed it down well with carb and choke cleaner, let it dry in my house (70 degrees F) for an hour and a half, re-installed it and now it wouldn't start.
(This post was edited by S-10 4.3 on Jan 20, 2009, 5:33 AM)
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Loren Champlain Sr
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Jan 21, 2009, 4:31 PM
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Re: 1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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Sure sounds that it is flooded. Pull the spark plugs and take a look. Lots of reasons it could be flooded, spraying anything down the TBI (it is TBI? Not, MPFI?) will only make it worse.
Loren
SW Washington
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 21, 2009, 7:03 PM
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Re: 1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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To add on the "Flooded" thing Loren suggested:
Sometimes things get so floooooded that air dry alone just won't cut it - meaning plugs. I've had several usually cheaper plugs but not always get soaked, air dry and look fine but would not fire in the engine till heat dried like with a propane torch or up and replaced.
Plugs have more resistance to jumping the gap in the compressed mix vs open air (without compression pressures) so even seeing one work outside doesn't mean it is out of site when installed. The spark is stupid and just wants the easiest way to ground and once the porcelain gets wet with a fuel, oil or whatever it can conduct the spark without making the jump to fire - don't try to figure out how but I absolutely know it can happen with clumps of hair missing to prove it!
T
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Loren Champlain Sr
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Jan 21, 2009, 7:19 PM
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Re: 1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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 Uh, looks like you've got plenty of hair left. Putting the plugs in the wife's oven works, too, but be ready to get yelled at.
Oh, and if you didn't notice, my dog is looking at Kitty.
Loren
SW Washington
(This post was edited by Loren Champlain Sr on Jan 21, 2009, 7:21 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 21, 2009, 8:47 PM
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Re: 1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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YOU HAVE THE AUDACITY TO CALL IT THE WIFE'S OVEN!
SEE WHAT YOU JUST DID? YOU'VE MADE YOUR POOR DOG HOMELESS!
SO THAT'S WHY THE POOCH IS OUT IN THE SNOW!
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jan 21, 2009, 8:52 PM)
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S-10 4.3
New User
Jan 22, 2009, 10:23 AM
Post #6 of 9
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Re: 1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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throttle boddy injection.
2 butterfly's in the throttle body
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S-10 4.3
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Jan 22, 2009, 10:26 AM
Post #7 of 9
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Re: 1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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I pulled all 6 spark plugs one at a time and they all look really good.
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Loren Champlain Sr
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Jan 22, 2009, 2:15 PM
Post #8 of 9
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Re: 1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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Wife's oven. Yup. Let me 'splain; Over 30yrs ago, I dried out some spark plugs in 'the' oven. I learned very quickly that it was HER oven, not meant for car parts. Hmmm. Same thing when I used 'the' washing machine to wash my greasy rags. Or, when I used her roasting pan to drain oil into. Or, the turkey baster to fill a battery. All of those items are HERS! But, I learn quickly. LOL.
Loren
SW Washington
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Loren Champlain Sr
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Jan 22, 2009, 2:20 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Re: 1990 S-10 won't start, getting fuel and spark.
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Were the plugs dry or damp with fuel? Are you getting sufficient spark to the plugs? If you can see the injectors spraying fuel during crank, and you are getting spark to the plugs, sure sounds like an overfueling condition. You can try pulling the coil wire out of the distributor cap about 1/2", so that the spark has to 'jump', which will increase the firing voltage. Sometimes helps on a flooded engine.
Loren
SW Washington
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