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getting max go at 2000 t 2400 rpm??
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agusta74
New User
Jun 25, 2008, 8:10 PM
Post #1 of 1
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getting max go at 2000 t 2400 rpm??
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Hiya guys and girls, I am having real trouble finding info so I thought I would bring it up here and see what wisdom I can find here.... I am restoring a 1915 Fiat car. It has a 2816cc side valve L head four cylinder engine. It does not have a detachable head. Has a water pump. 37mm inlet and exhaust valves (with scant room for larger ones) It has three white metal main bearings and no crank counter weights. It as an oil pump and pressure feed mains. In original condition it is said to have 28hp at 1850rpm. It has a stroke of 140 and a bore of 80. The whole engine is pieces and needing a full rebuild. Now I want to make the most of this engine with out making it break all the time.... To this end I have some ideas but you try finding info on how to get maximum go between 2000 and 2300rpm!! Finding info on engines spinning at 6000rpm to 10000rpm is easy to find.... but 2200 not so easy!! I welcome comments of the following ideas..... ################################################################ RELIABILITY. Crank. Weld on counter weights to the crank (easy as the crank webs are all square) my theory being it will run smoother and be able to maintain higher revs 2500 absolute max, without hammering out the mains, crank and flywheels balanced etc. Run a lightened fly wheel, to get revs to go up and down faster with less stress to the crank. Extra weight which was needed to dampen vibration of the old unbalanced crank will not be needed. Remaining flywheel will still be substantial in size. Cooling.. Run a temperature controlled electric fan with shroud over the rear of rad. Run extractors not the large cast iron exhaust manifold, to get heat away from the block. Rods.. Straightened, x rayed and polished. Oil pump. Look at any upgrades that can be done inside pump for more flow. __________________________________________________________ GETTING MORE GO... Get more air in... Fit a slightly later period brass bodied 1.5 inch (38mm)SU carb. The original is a odd system with fuel and air (with 36mm air throat) going in different places and mixing in the block. try and get a 38 or 39mm inlet valves in their Re grind cam for more go. Burn mixture with biggest bang.... Highest compression aluminum pistons I can have made. Twin plugs, good hot mag OR electronic ignition hidden inside a spare magneto shell?? Getting gas and heat out. The original exhaust manifold is a long cast iron thing where the gas has to go right along it to the rear to get out... so I am looking at making a subtle set of extractors for it in 1.5 pipe and a tail pipe 2 inch and not very restrictive modified original muffler. ################################################################### Ok so that is my plan... now what huge holes are in it????? You will notice that I have avoided using the terms "torque" and "power" as these cause more confusion then good most of the time. Overall I am not wanting to HOTROD the car... just make improvements that are no too hideous that will make the car more usable on modern roads. I am not going to high speed all the time, just better acceleration and usable "go" in real world road situations. Just don't mention the brakes!.... I am putting the car through a diet... and it has very lightweight bodywork to make the most of the go and stoop it does have. So any ideas or things I have missed the point of?? Regards Gavin New Zealand
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