I'm interested in getting a carb rebuild kit for the carb in my 63 Ford Falcon Futura, to get the car in good condition for summer! It looks to me like it's got leaky gaskets, and there's a flat spot in the acceleration which I have been told is probably the accelerator pump diaphragm, so i guess I may as well just do a rebuild (my first). Just need to know what kit to get and if anyone has any other.

Engine is a 170 inline six 2.8 L. Attached are a couple pictures of the carb. Thanks.



(This post was edited by RexStetson on Mar 31, 2009, 8:42 AM)

If you notice, both the power valve and accelerator pump diaghragm are external on this carb. Very easy to replace. But, if you want to overhaul it, the kit should be readily available through NAPA. The most important part of an overhaul is getting it CLEAN, first. You can also buy a one-time use cleaner, but desposal of that stuff can get rather spendy. That stuff will clean grandma's teeth! Then, the float adjustment is critical. You've picked a very simple one for your first try. Good luck.
Loren
SW WA

Thanks Loren.
I was told that i could just replace the accelerator pump diaphragm and that it would be easy, but I'm not sure of the exact carb model this is. i think its an autolite 1100 maybe. The car runs just fine except for there's a delay in the acceleration (which everyone says is the accelerator pump portion of the carb). Do i need to need to replace the power valve too? Ive got a shop manual which is very helpful and detailed, but my carb looks slightly different from everything in the manual. For example, there is no vent valve rod from the top of the fuel bowl to the top of the accelerator pump, and no vent actuating lever on the accelerator pump, although it has the bottom (accelerating pump control?) rod. The whole carb looks a bit leaky to me, with a little dampness (from fuel) underneath it. Obviously i dont want to do unecessary work on it, but I'm wondering 1) am i just missing a piece of the accelerator pump? 2) whats the minimum work i can do on this that could reasonably help the flat spot/delay upon acceleration? 3)which rebuild kit do i ask for? 4) should i just rebuild the whole thing or leave well enough alone?

Thanks again!

Can't help but nose in:

Just looked at a "Trade Edition" Chiltons for 61-69. Show this as a "Ford" One Barrel with a few variations this was first used in MY 1963. The thing with four screw in your pic is the accelerator pump. Behind that is a gasket (rubber product) with a cone spring. Those were common to fail and you would see leakage there or lack of a squirt in throttle body. Sorry to say I didn't have one on hand but did find about a dozen from around then for assorted carbs! (old phart rule #1 - NEVER throw anything away!)

I do have all specs for the OE 1v, *non200 CID six for this carb. Adjustments could vary by how but specs are fair close estimates.

*I think there was both a 144 and a 170 CID six that were similiar.

There isn't much in this carb you couldn't fix, clean up or even make a gasket with exacto knife and a leather punch.

Rubber flexible things (diaphragms etc.) can be repaired with true Neoprene liquid wet suit glue or some liquid electrical tape - test for fuel tolerance if you ever try tricks for oil or gasoline sealing items. NEVER USE silicone on fuel items.

This carb kit should be still available fairly easily. Try NAPA or search sites for Falcons or more common Mustang still widely restored for new kits if needed,

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

The reason I mentioned the power (economizer) valve, is that it is a common Ford part failure, and in your case, very easy to replace. They can leak, externally. While you have the accelerator pump diaghragm cover off, take a flat file to the surface. They are known for warpage. Both of those parts should be readily available. The accel. pumps didn't change much, clear up until fuel injection. Make note of the spring configuration when you remove it, so you get it back in the correct way. Also, be certain that the dwell and timing are set to specs, as that can give you a hesitation if not correct. Check for timing advance with a timing light, too.
Loren
SW WA