I've just never had any luck with "rebuilt" carbs from parts stores. The parts store we deal with won't even sell them. Nor, will we. One good one, out of ten, would be good odds. The one you buy may or may not be jetted correctly for your application. I guess that is why I'm trying to get you to fix the one you've got. If, in fact, that's even the problem. As carburetors go, yours is one of the easiest to rebuild. The only critical adjustment is the float level. If you buy a good, quality, rebuild kit, it will come with instructions for the float adjustment. The rest of the rebuild is just thourough cleaning and replacing gaskets. I'd recommend NAPA for the kit. Good quality. If you are dead set on replacing the carb, I'd recommend staying with the automatic choke it at all possible. But, with some modifications, you can switch it back to manual. Again, your call. The fuel inlet, as I can tell by the pics, will be your biggest hurdle. But with some perserverance, I'm sure you can do it. Good luck, either way.
Loren
SW WA

I'm dying to find out how it turned out.
Loren
SW WA

haven't gotten the carb changed out yet. messed my knee up yesterday so i had to take a rest. i believe i am going to go with the manual carb i have just to get the beast running. once i do the transplant i will let you know how it goes.

So I changed the carbs out. Hooked up the manual choke and low and behold she is running nicely. I need to adjust the idle as it is set real high right now. All and all it wasn't as difficult as I had thought it would be, hopefully the adjustment goes as easy as the installation. Thanks so much for all your help.

Thanks for the repy. Glad to hear everything went so well! Enjoy!
Loren
SW WA

I stumbled across this posting and I have a similar question on the auto choke. I have a 65 falcon with a 200 ci motor. I just purchased the car and rebuilt the carb. The vacuum line for the auto choke is missing and I can see where it connects to the carb, but i cannot find where it connects to the manifold. Do you have any idea?

Choke should be heated with exhaust heat the tubing of which was a problem. Kits were sold (owned many) to fix that. Also the carb must have some vacuum inside the black cover of the choke to suck in some hot air or choke will stay on way too long! Suggest fixing vs a futile manual choke if that's what this issue is............

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

As Tom mentioned, the 'auto' choke is heated with exhaust. No vacuum connection. To add, most of these had a bracket that attached to the auto choke housing to cradle the heater hose which passes nearby. The heat from the heater hose helped keep the unit warm while driving. Couldn't find a pic to illustrate.
Loren
SW WA

That pic came from O'Reiley's web site for a repair kit for rusted out choke heater that I recall many of back when. Origs would rust off and break at the exhaust manifold and this kit you could just hammer into the rusted mess to provide heat for chokes if it plain not getting heat it can stay on and engine would run lousy or high idle as it thinks it's still cold without this working,

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

Thanks Guys! This is really helpful. I will stop in a local Kragen (O'Reiley's on the West Coast) and try to pick one up. I will let you know how it works out.

Leaving it up to you for diag. It might not be this - it was just common to me even when these weren't so old. Many models of Fords used the same idea and many failed at least on me due to this item.

"Just remember - your memory is the second thing to go!" Can't recall what the first was - laugh,



T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

Sorry for the delay in response. The auto choke worked well. I ended up using a stove/stove pipe that clamped to the manifold and it is working very well.

Thanks for report of success. Auto choke is best - trust me! It knows the temp vs guessing with a manual!

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston